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Routes in Beaver Street Wall

Bolt Route TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crack Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crack, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Right of Direct Start T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,555 total, 24/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 11, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the crack up the main wall of the area. Interesting crux is in the horizontal portion on the lower section of the climb.

Protection

friends and nuts up to 2 1/2".bring a few 3' slings for a toprope.

Photos

Seldom Still
San Francisco,ca
 
Seldom Still   San Francisco,ca
 
daniel c has it right, i think. This route definitely has a 5.10 crux. The other options to the the right are easier and more traveled. Jun 18, 2016
Christine Spang
Oakland, CA
  5.9 PG13
Christine Spang   Oakland, CA
  5.9 PG13
Led this yesterday. I placed the following gear: #5 and #6 BD micro stoppers, blue, green, and yellow aliens on the traverse, a couple small BD stoppers, a silver peenut (#5 I think), green C4 to top out. There's a spot for something big, like a #3 C4, about 3/4 of the way up, but I didn't have anything above a 2 with me so I didn't place anything there.

Offset micro stoppers would have been better for the first two nut placements, which I thought were okay but not well-set with the regular BD micro stoppers I used.

If the rock were granite, I wouldn't give this an R rating—it takes gear for sure. You can sew it up pretty good once you get to the traverse and really limit the fall length... but how well the slickenside holds an impact, I have no idea.

Highly recommend dropping the chains over the top and going up a bit right in order to clip them before topping out. The topout jug looks like it's held together with mud. Aug 7, 2015
Jason Parks
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8+
Jason Parks   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8+
I'd venture to say that the Crack is along the lines of 5.8/5.9. I got up it fairly easily (and I climb the 5.8/5.9 range). I think people bump it up to 5.10 due to the lack of good footwork, which is a key to this climb with the minute footholds. The handholds were good throughout the whole climb. The Mirror gets a bit tricky, and by tricky I mean slick (Think Data in The Goonies, "Slick Shoes").

Give the shoes a good brushing/rub down.

Don't know if I would recommend the lead, but if you rock it, well done good sir, or ma'am for that matter. Jan 3, 2014
daniel c
San Francisco, CA
  5.10a R
daniel c   San Francisco, CA
  5.10a R
I think there might be some confusion between this route and Crack Direct. In the Bay Area climbing book, Crack Direct is rated at 5.9, while this route, The Crack, is listed at 5.10a. Both of these difficulty ratings seem reasonable to me.

Loose at the top. Have your belay partner stand back a few feet.

Lead is possible (bring the small stuff) but I wouldn't recommended it. Aug 27, 2009
Steve R.
Oakland, CA
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
Admittedly I was leading above my grade but I wished for some #00 cams. Don't think I used anything above a Red (#4) TCU. Not too shabby for being in the middle of the City. Good stuff Jan 12, 2009
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
Eases the rating? What do you mean? With good footwork it felt like 5.8? To me it just felt like 5.9 for a move or two. Jul 8, 2008
I just climbed this route today and its given a 5.10a rating in "Rock Climbing the Bay Area" and is a great little climb. First time up, a beginner like me had to use my arms a lot but was able to do it no problem and relaxed second time. Lots of fun and interesting rock. Jan 16, 2006
damian  
I freed this crack last month and found it not to be that fun. The face of the rock is extremely polished and thus slippery. Next I aided it and I thought it was great aid practice. A2 I guess. Mar 12, 2004
Victor K
Denver, CO
 
Victor K   Denver, CO
 
The book "Bay Area Rock" lists this at 5.9. I'd have to agree. Good footwork eases the rating. It's a delightful route! Past the crux, there is a section so glassy that you can check your teeth for poppy seeds. While the top section eases up a lot, the view is great. Jul 15, 2003
The main crack at Beaver street is rated at 5.9 not 5.10b. Having climbed it several times and seen 5.9 climbers make it up (with a fall or two), I think the 5.9 rating is about right on. Aug 31, 2002