Elevation: 269 ft
GPS: 37.766, -122.437 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 42,607 total · 192/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 18, 2002 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Aron Quiter, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Covid-19 Closures! Details

Description

Located in the city of San Francisco, this area is part of the San Francisco Parks system, so access is not a concern. You're in San Francisco, so the weather can be wonderful, but is most likely going to be foggy and windy.

This small area holds some interesting climbing on very glasslike rock, that can be quite tough on the hands, and in places almost impossible to smear. On the harder routes, if you can find it a grip, finger hold, nub, anything, you'll probably need it. This crag contains some great balancy moves, despite it's limited number of climbs.

The area holds several climbs that are topropeable, and also several could potentially be climbed trad, though it would be a frightening lead on the tougher routes.

To setup a toprope, walk around the left side of the rock and climb the loose rock in the trees for 20 feet or so. This will lead you to fence and a path, which will lead up to some rusty (but solid) chains that are directly above the main crack. Conceivably you could also top rope other sections using the fence for an anchor.

If you're not comfortable with the 20 ft scramble and traverse over potentially slick grass and mud, the chains can be reached via a staircase and walk that ascend toward the Randall Museum about 5 or 6 houses south from Beaver Street. Just bear right as the Museum comes into view above the tennis courts.

Decent should be to clean the anchors and rap off, or descend off the entry way as described above.

Getting There

1. Google Map Beaver Street. Where it hits 15th, it looks like an L. Right at the corner of that L, there is a staircase that goes up between two houses. That staircase leads to Flint St. You can park right there on Flint. Or on Beaver. Or hell, right in the park where the base of the cliff is if you want.

2. Up at the top of the staircase at the dead-end on Flint St, there are some tennis courts. There is an obvious trail right there. Follow the trail up and to the right, alongside the fence. Follow the fence. At the top, there is another fence running perpendicular to the one you just followed. That's the fence at the top of the cliff.

3. There is a section of fence that has a double fence. Like a newer, shinier fence installed. That is where the anchor is.

4. There are some chains. I don't know if they are trustworthy or not. You can also build an anchor off the newer fence's cross member.

5. There is STILL a nut stuck in the lower part of the climb. It looks like it's jammed in there pretty hard.

6. You DO NOT need a permit. We called the number on the sign and they said they are taking the sign down, as it was put up by some other department who has a stick up their bum. No permit needed. Climb to your heart's content.

Thanks to FourT6and2 ... for this recent beta.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beaver Street Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 64
Crack Direct
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 73
The Crack
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 17
Right of Direct Start
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Dawn Juan
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crack Direct
 64
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
The Crack
 73
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Right of Direct Start
 17
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, TR
Dawn Juan
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
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