Longest wall/route in each state?

Looks like “unknown” in Iowa, 2 pitches at 80 ft at Indian Bluffs

José Flovinwrote:

Looks like “unknown” in Iowa, 2 pitches at 80 ft at Indian Bluffs

Strike that, C N Red has it beat by 5 feet - 85ft

I figured Wheeler great corner is500ft almost exactly. 

NH Mt Willard is 700ft max unless you count the 35m scramble through the woods between the slabs and the upper crag. 

Not sure about AZ, Comanche ridge seems like not sustained 5th class...

Leviathan Dome? Baboquivari? Grand Canyon Obscurity? Something in Vermillion Cliffs?

Phillip Shanaghanwrote:

I'm pretty sure Groover Variation 5.8 at Laurel Knob is the longest route in NC and the southeast. Long run out slabby burly NC climbing to the max. 9 pitches 1320 ft.

1,320 feet / 9 pitches = an average of 146.66 feet per pitch. If I had to guess, I'd say this was put up way back in the day, ground up, by hard southeastern climbers, using a 150 foot Gold Line rope, stretching the rope for every pitch, with probably like a single set of nuts between them and a dozen (if that many!) 1/4" button heads. But that's just my guess, I haven't looked it up yet :)

Edit: Just looked it up, the first half (Groover) FA in 1980 by Jeep and Julia Gaskin (so I was right about the one set of nuts between them   ) The route's not not as old as I thought! First few pitches are around 180 feet, so longer, better ropes than Gold Line. Definitely hard southeastern climbers!

WA State: Direct N Ridge of Stuart. 2800’. Anything longer?

A Mwrote:

WA State: Direct N Ridge of Stuart. 2800’. Anything longer?

Liberty ridge is ~5500ft. Johannesburg north face is 5000’ from the nf cascade river valley. Mongo ridge (sw ridge of west mt fury) is around 4000’. Something on Mt Goode is probably up there. The rarely seen N face of Mt Davis drops 5000+’ to the valley floor. All would depend what is the definition being used for a route or wall tho..

Definitely the west face of the Matterhorn for Oregon. 

https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/64946-wallowas-rock-quality/

https://www.djensenphotography.com/images/ne_ore/mountains/matterhorn_black_white.htm

Not many people have tried the west face. My own photo from eagle cap. You can see the white rock from peak to valley floor. I can't find my own photo from the base when I hiked by but it's huge. 

For Washingtion, I don't think the suggested north ridge of Stuart or Liberty ridge count. There is a lot of sub-5th class terrain on those and the OP said that doesn't count. 

For Maine would it be the south basin of Katahdin?

In Ri at Beach Pond we have the majestic Hemlock Ledges that top out at about 40 feet at the most. We do have some taller rock (Diamond hill is probably the tallest) but they are closed to climbing these days.

Alan Rubinwrote:

For Connecticut, I recall many years ago doing a 2 or 3 pitch route on an obscure schist cliff in Waterbury in the central part of the state. The cliff is located behind a shooting range ( added a bit if ‘spice’ to our climb), so off-limits. While our climb zig-zagged a bit, it is one and, as far as I know the longest, of only a handful of ‘vertical’ routes in the state longer than a single pitch.

Are those the cliffs behind the shooting range by the DMV? I've looked at them and decided it wasn't worth it.

Do girdle traverses count?
"Warehouse Run" on the Chin at Sleeping Giant is 7 pitches. "Out of Orbit" and "North By Northwest" at the Ragged Main Cliff are 7 and 9 pitches, respectively.

Yes,  Bill, I’m pretty sure that’s the same cliff. Actually, the climb, while easy, was quite interesting—though, clearly, it was the ‘objective danger’ that made it particularly memorable ( they weren’t shooting when we started, so we assumed that it was closed for the day!!!). But I’m not aware of anything taller in the state—-OP specifically excluded girdle traverses.

Alan Rubinwrote:

For Connecticut, I recall many years ago doing a 2 or 3 pitch route on an obscure schist cliff in Waterbury in the central part of the state. The cliff is located behind a shooting range ( added a bit if ‘spice’ to our climb), so off-limits. While our climb zig-zagged a bit, it is one and, as far as I know the longest, of only a handful of ‘vertical’ routes in the state longer than a single pitch.

Out of curiosity, would you mind elaborating on the details of the route? Was this near Rifle Range Pond in Mattatuck State Forest? I don't see a shooting range there currently. Did you give it a name or grade? Any vague recollection on how the route went (where it started, notable features, and etc.)?

Olivia Weisswrote:

Out of curiosity, would you mind elaborating on the details of the route? Was this near Rifle Range Pond in Mattatuck State Forest? I don't see a shooting range there currently. Did you give it a name or grade? Any vague recollection on how the route went (where it started, notable features, and etc.)?

There's a shooting range at 41.602348, -73.058277. The police use it regularly. And there's a tall chossy cliff above it.

No cliff that I know of above Rifle Range Pond. Remains of some of the target frames are still there, though.

Sam, Don’t remember too much about the route—it was a long time  ago ( early ‘70s). My recollection is that the cliff was quite obvious from the road ( and not far from it) along the river heading northwest past Waterbury ( would be on the other side of the river, I believe, from Mattatuck). My ( very fallible) memory is that the rock was schist and that we followed some interconnected slabby ‘ramps’ weaving between steeper sections without much protection. Once the shooting started we were looking for the quickest and easiest way to get off of it, so what we did was quite easy, I’m guessing 5.4-5.5 or so—at least 2 pitches. Did it with Sam Streibert. Never gave it a name—we were just happy to get out of there without getting shot!!!!

Thanks for the info, Bill and Alan!

I was working on the FA or perhaps 2nd ascent of a roof crack in the woods in center Rutland VT. suddenly regular volleys of bird shot started zipping through the leaves right over our heads...  yelling did nothing. they were shooting trap in a gravel quarry several hundred meters away. By the time we finished and hiked out they were gone. 

M Spraguewrote:

In Ri at Beach Pond we have the majestic Hemlock Ledges that top out at about 40 feet at the most. We do have some taller rock (Diamond hill is probably the tallest) but they are closed to climbing these days.

Dang it, you beat me to it for Rhode Island haha. 

Glorious 40ft tall Beach Pond. One of the reasons I moved to Washington state.

MattHwrote:

A couple more that came to me:

NV: Which route on Mt. Wilson takes the cake? Resolution Arete?

NY: Wallface? Or Mt. Colden?

IL: Something on Fountain Bluff near the Beach bouldering area? Not sure what the longest route with legal access is - something at Cedar Bluff?

CT: Something on West Rock?

The gunks traverse aka great wall of china is over 9,000 feet long and traverses the entirety of the trapps, making it one of the longest rock climbs in the world. Other than that, the full length routes on wallface are the only grade IV climbs in NY but clock in at 10% the length of the great wall of china.