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Red Flag Phrases

grug g · · SLC · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0

"He's never done that before!" Talking about their dog. 

Visible red flags: 

Bunch of things clipped to the outside of their pack swinging around like a pendulum as they hike. 

Carrying the rope to the crag in their hands.

No rope mat or bag - just puts their stuff right in the dirt. 

Mark Frumkin · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 52

Real climbers put their rope on the ground. 

grug g · · SLC · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0
Mark Frumkinwrote:

Real climbers put their rope on the ground. 

Ok boomer

Mike B · · Mars · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

Phrases in general. Why waste time say lot word when few word do trick.

Igor Chained · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 110
John Nguyenwrote:

“I’ll belay you with my grigri+”

What's wrong with the plus? Did you get short roped?

Sounds more like belayer inefficiency. 

Kevin R · · Westminster, CO · Joined May 2008 · Points: 325

using the word "splitter" to describe the weather 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

"Well, shit happens."

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

“How do I know which handgrips to use?” (Outdoors)

Edit: or indoors for that matter.

Desert Rock Sports · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 2

"My son/daughter climbs 5.12 in the gym" = They hangdog 5.10a outside.

Peter J · · Bishop · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 687

I was once walking down to the rostrum with someone I had never climbed with before (I thought he was supposed to bring the rack, and carpooled with him. He thought I was bringing the rack. Anyway we only had a weird assortment of different types of cams adding up to a single rack .3-4 and 5-ish draws that he had scrounged out of various corners of his van.)

I looked at his harness and noticed he didn't have an ATC, so I asked him "how are you going to rappel?" He responded casually "oh we're just going to simul rap!" I expressed some concern about immediately simul rappelling with someone I had only just met and he turned to me and said very seriously, "Don't worry. I might spray about my climbing, but I NEVER spray about my simul rappelling! I know what I'm doing." 

He ended up being a much more experience partner than the last rando I had climbed the rostrum with.

Eric Engberg · · Westborough, MA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0
Lone Pinewrote:

Using trad as a verb

or "multi"

Yawn Bosco · · Raleigh, NC · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

Crusties who wear crack gloves telling new climbers not to wear crack gloves.

Robert S · · Driftwood, TX · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 662

"What do you want to listen to?"

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

"There's a party already on the route."

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252

Going back to “in direct,” in what instance can I not replace it simply with “slack.”

If I’m hangdogging a sport route and giving my partner a break I can say slack. When I’m ready to move again I’ll say climbing.

Same as with the anchor obviously. I don’t need to announce anything other than “Slack.”

“Slack,” “Tension/Take,” “Ready to Lower/Lowering,” “Climbing” and “Off/On Belay” is all you ever need for a day out whether single pitch or not.

I suppose “Up Rope” on a multipitch is a necessary evil. Fine for occasionally use, but some folks use it far too often because they think the rope should be hauling them up the wall while they “climb.”

bishop triphosphate · · Boulder CO · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 70

"let's use rope tugs to communicate"

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 727
Alex Fletcherwrote:

Going back to “in direct,” in what instance can I not replace it simply with “slack.”

If I’m hangdogging a sport route and giving my partner a break I can say slack. When I’m ready to move again I’ll say climbing.

"In direct" tells your belayer to stop actively belaying you and just relax, and that you won't start climbing again without letting them know. So no, it can't be replaced with "slack."

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 984
Alex Fletcherwrote:

Going back to “in direct,” in what instance can I not replace it simply with “slack.”

If I’m hangdogging a sport route and giving my partner a break I can say slack. When I’m ready to move again I’ll say climbing.

This would work, but the belayer won't know if you are asking for slack to make a high clip or planning to settle into a hang on the closest bolt. 

"In direct" makes your intention clear.

For those who don't know, typically the subsequent command, when done hanging, is "on you" 

This differs from "climbing" as it usually means the climber's weight will immediately be taken by the belayer.

The climber then will move up, unweighting the rope.

If my partner insisted on saying slack and climbing as you suggest, I'd get used to it and nbd, but I'd figure they were either kind of weird or more of a tradster.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Alex Fletcherwrote:

Going back to “in direct,” in what instance can I not replace it simply with “slack.”

If I’m hangdogging a sport route and giving my partner a break I can say slack. When I’m ready to move again I’ll say climbing.

That's not how "in direct" in projecting works. When climber says "in direct" it means that he or she is directly connected to the bolt, usually with an extra "project draw". It also means that belayer can relax - there is no need to sit in the harness to provide constant tension in rope system as it would be expected in the typical "take".

Once the climber is ready to resume climbing, they will ask for the "take" - belayer takes in all slack, puts rope system under tension. Climber unclips from the bolt,  then says "on me/climbing", and resumes free climbing. 

If I, as belayer, were to hear my climber ask for slack, they would get exactly that - couple of arm lengths of slack. 

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,257

“I’ve never taken a fall in 25 years of climbing!”

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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