Red Flag Phrases

I worked at two different scout reservations this summer as a climbing director, and at each camp I had a staff member say the phrase "I don't trust gear" and would go on to explain they trust themselves more than the gear.  I watched both of these staff at each camp (on opposite sides of the country) then go on to be my largest safety problem as far as doing stupid things themselves, one ultimately having his certification card revoked.  Naturally the phrase "I don't trust gear, I trust myself more" became code for me to watch you about to do something really stupid. 

Does anyone else have red flag sayings or things people do that make you immediately not trust them in a climbing setting? 

"Ya, I never remember to tie a knot at the end of my rope" or something to that affect. It's usually just the first of a litany of bad habits they don't think twice about. 

  “Gates in” 

"Hold my pipe and watch this" - Tradiban

"Grigris make people complacent. I'm way safer with my ATC."

- The dude who brings two 30ft cordelettes on the multi, insists on rapping at the sport crag, and still takes in slack with the pinky pinch method because "that's how I was taught".

People who call “off belay” when cleaning an anchor but all they really need is a few feet of slack. 

"I used to climb a lot a few years ago" Proceeds to flail on a 5.3

"In direct" Which means what exactly

"I've got all the gear already. I'll meet you at the crag" Shows up without a belay device

When queried about their belay competence "What's a Grigri?"

Gunkiemikewrote:

"I used to climb a lot a few years ago" Proceeds to flail on a 5.3

"In direct" Which means what exactly

"I've got all the gear already. I'll meet you at the crag" Shows up without a belay device

When queried about their belay competence "What's a Grigri?"

That’s funny.
I’m with you on all the others, but if somebody doesn’t use the phrase “in direct” I’m not going to project anything with them. Might be fine partners for a volume day though

any overuse of climbing terminology.  any reference to a MP forum.  

Gunkiemikewrote:

"In direct" Which means what exactly

When I climb with my primary partner I use it as a shorthand for 'I'm at the anchors. Be ready for some other commands'. It's like the anchor equivalent of 'watch me here'. It's just expectation-setting, not a command.

If it's used as a substitute for a command with the expectation that some action automatically should follow (eg: as a substitute for "Off Belay") then I agree it's a red flag.

EDIT: as mentioned below, "In Direct" is also a very useful phrase when projecting. Don't take me off belay, but feel free to relax a little and know that I'm going to be here for a bit.

When they say “In direct “

Drederekwrote:

When they say “In direct “

This. Everyone has a different definition of what it means which is an accident waiting to happen. 

While in general I believe that on route climbing communications need to be limited. brief, convey clear information, and must be mutually understood by all members of the climbing team, I do believe that ‘in direct’ does convey worthwhile information—leader is clipped into the anchor or piece, so belayer is temporarily less likely to expect to be prepared for an imminent potential fall, but leader definitely is not expecting to be taken off belay at that time—most likely, if at the anchor, as a preliminary to asking for slack to thread the anchor prior to lowering; if at a piece, meaning the climber is taking a rest before proceeding but not needing to be held on tension.

Matt, you are clearly to hung up—and unrealistic, on the Grigri/ATC differential. Both types of devices have pros and cons—both can be used safely, both have been used unsafely contributing to serious accidents. Maybe, be a bit less dogmatic about such things.

Alan, I think you misunderstood Matt 

I can see why folks who are predominantly on sight trad climbers are troubled by the phrase "in direct." 

It really seems to have no place in that setting and could be dangerously confusing.

Analogous to using rope tugs to try to communicate in Rifle :-)

But I can assure you that it is a very useful, clearcut phrase when projecting!

That being said, I don't think the phrase is needed at the anchor and don't typically use it there.

I've never used an ATC!!!

Mark Pilatewrote:

Alan, I think you misunderstood Matt 

If someone says "I'm way safer with an ATC" - you probably should believe them.  If saying them makes them categorically unsafe to you then its your prerogative not to climb with them.  Personally I think there are few absolutes and lots of subtle shades of grey....

Using trad as a verb

“I’m a 5.12 climber“

”that was spicy” on a gym TR

”Europeans don’t really bolt much like we do in the USA”

“I thought you were gonna bring the slings” 

usually leads to climbing without slings 

“I’ll belay you with my grigri+”