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Yer gonna die myths
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What do you think are some YGD.tm myths that seem to persist in the climbing community that really aren't a big deal in the real world. What do people worry about that isn't really a big deal instead of worrying about important stuff: tying knots on rap, placing good gear, knowing how to dynamically belay. I'll start with a few: -Metal on metal -Gate flutter on draws -Knots reducing the strength of material - equalization on bolts |
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I’d say 2 of theses aren’t myths. Knots do reduce strength, and I’ve had a carabiner unclip itself from a piece of gear that was nested next to another piece that ripped. Not sure if it was gate flutter, but it wasn’t backclipped and it came off the sling, was on the rope and I was on the ground. |
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Placing cams in a horizontal crack without the outer lobes on the bottom. Look at the comments for any gunks climbing video and you'll always see people saying it's dangerous. I'd like to see anyone who can make a good placement in a horizontal fail to hold just by flipping the lobes around. |
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EDK for tying ropes together |
Kevin DeWeese wrote: Came to post exactly this. |
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Eating gas station chimichangas before a long day of MP climbing. |
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Using an assisted brake belay device to belay a leader on a trad/gear climb. |
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"Overcamming". Shock loading (possibly relevant if using a sling or PAS, but hardly a concern when a dynamic rope is involved). Unused, properly stored soft goods older than 5 years. Also cam placements where the lobes are not all closed the same amount, but are all closed enough for the size of the cam (larger cams can be more "tipped", though this can increase walking risk). Cams generally have a constant camming angle, so the free body diagram should look the same even if some lobes are more closed than others, provided the crack is parallel along the direction of pull. Edit to add: Camp Photons (new version). |
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Yer gonna die if you lead Double Cross |
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-Number of falls on a rope (according to the package). -Tying a "safety knot" on top of your figure 8 -girth hitching a sling to your belay loop -not having lockers everywhere on your anchor |
Jason Zevenbergenwrote: I don't remember seeing anyone saying YGD when overcamming (unless you are counting your follower bashing your head with the cam they spent an hour trying to clean as a cause of death) |
Spinsser Hwrote: I've heard at least a dozen times that my very cammed placement was dangerous because cams get weak when overcammed. And I'm not talking giant OW silly cams but run of the mill C4s... |
Bryan Kwrote: I think the (unfounded) concern is that the unit can "fall over sideways" if the wider lobes aren't on the bottom. As if that were even possible in a parallel crack. This fallacy is even more common with Tricams. Physically impossible to roll them - they get wider as they tip i.e. they don't tip. |
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Toproping on a static rope. Instant spine explosion. |
Connor Dobsonwrote: I’m thinking you don’t know what that number means. |
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Your unclimbed-on dynamic rope is going to self destruct after sitting on the shelf for 10 years. |
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Gate flutter is real, although I think it's mainly only a concern on runouts. I carry a slider locker (or two) that I'll put on my last bomber piece before a runout or hard section. Very useful in Eldo. |
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Some said I would die if I kept eating ice cream sandwiches at my current rate. So far not dead! |
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Tying in with a bowline |
