i think "flash" may be dying a sad death. the other day i watched someone send a route after working it all day. his girlfriend praised him for a "flash in a day". i don't think she understood this word "flash". or perhaps i don't?
oh here's one! (not sure how this one got missed so far...) "dirtbag" or "dirtbagging". hmmm driving to a campsite and sleeping in a tent isn't really "dirtbagging". wearing a pair of $150 pants and a bunch of other matching stuff probably doesn't make you a dirtbag. if you have a credit card, you are not a dirtbag.
I'm 16, I don't have a credit card, I bum rides to the crag, am I a dirtbag?
People getting to the top of a sport climb and saying "off belay" when they are intending to lower from the anchor afterwards. Saw this happen one time (luckily no one got hurt) and talked to the group after they got down. Told them "off belay" has a specific meaning that the belayer takes you off belay fully and they could have gotten in to an accident. They just shrugged it off and said "we know what we mean between the two of us when we say it, so it's all good."
I've seen this too. I wonder if standardizing commands across generations is a lost cause because the younger generation feels it fundamentally uncool to be consistent with the older generation.
I've seen this too. I wonder if standardizing commands across generations is a lost cause because the younger generation feels it fundamentally uncool to be consistent with the older generation.
"Yeah, but you know what I meant!" - one of the most infuriating Gen-Z phrases ever.
I recall it being a technique that looked like one was trying to pull the crack apart. It came, I thought from a picture of Gaston Rebuffat ascending a wide crack with the method. One had to get solid foot jams for the method to work. From what I've seen, the new term seems to refer to a similar looking method, though on sideways face holds.
I recall it being a technique that looked like one was trying to pull the crack apart. It came, I thought from a picture of Gaston Rebuffat ascending a wide crack with the method. One had to get solid foot jams for the method to work. From what I've seen, the new term seems to refer to a similar looking method, though on sideways face holds.
Never heard it described as a crack technique before, makes sense though. What else would you call a Gaston move? A backhand? A layback behind you?
About gaston, I thought we used to call them "sidepulls". Does anybody else still use the term? Having two opposing sidepulls that you "pull apart" with both hands is what I first though the new "gaston" meant, but it seems like it is also used to mean just one sidepull. As you can see, I'm a little confused about the new gaston...
About gaston, I thought we used to call them "sidepulls". Does anybody else still use the term? Having two opposing sidepulls that you "pull apart" with both hands is what I first though the new "gaston" meant, but it seems like it is also used to mean just one sidepull. As you can see, I'm a little confused about the new gaston...
In modern terms if a hold faces right and you're using it with your right hand it's a sidepull. If it faces left it's a gaston. The "pull apart" motion is a "double gaston," where both hands are in a gaston.
"Gaston" formerly meaning "double gaston" is totally believable and it would be cool to see some sources that used it that way.
I recall it being a technique that looked like one was trying to pull the crack apart. It came, I thought from a picture of Gaston Rebuffat ascending a wide crack with the method. One had to get solid foot jams for the method to work. From what I've seen, the new term seems to refer to a similar looking method, though on sideways face holds.
As almost a soul gym climber with one shitty crack in our gym, we have plenty of Gaston moves on holds that are not on crack. It’s the same hand move, I think it just got translated to other areas of climbing
About gaston, I thought we used to call them "sidepulls". Does anybody else still use the term? Having two opposing sidepulls that you "pull apart" with both hands is what I first though the new "gaston" meant, but it seems like it is also used to mean just one sidepull. As you can see, I'm a little confused about the new gaston...
Side pull means to pull inwards and Gaston is to pull apart
Side pull means to pull inwards and Gaston is to pull apart
As normally used, Gaston has meant more to push or pull outwards on a roughly vertical hold. As said above, while the name did derive from a picture of Gaston Rebuffat climbing a crack using both hands that way, it normally has been used to describe any hold used in this manner. Though I’m not 100% certain, I believe that the term was coined by Jack Mileski and crew at the Gunks in the ‘80s as part of the original climbing ‘beta’ while they group sieged the hard projects of the day there.
The term "gaston" was actually named after the strongest boulderer in France in the 1800's. Legend has it that his training plan included bench-pressing buxom barmaids and consuming five dozen eggs per day.
Supposedly last year's Reel Rock was going to feature the clip below, a historical reenactment of his warmup routine.
However, after spending over $69,000 in member dues to conduct a Microaggression Impact Study, the Access Fund deemed that clip contributed to a culture of toxic masculinity and threatened to pull funding from Reel Rock if it were included.
Gaston's many FA's in the Font -- which include Expectoration Station V10+, Biceps to Spare V11, and Intimidating Specimen V13 -- have been redacted and are sadly lost in the annals of climbing history.
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