Defunct Climbing Terminology

One of the interesting and confounding aspects of this sport is it's rich lexicon of terminology. Like any form of language, the climbing terminology changes over time. New terms come into use, old term fade out of use, or terms change in meaning so that they no longer resemble their original use.  This thread focuses on the latter two scenarios: What are examples of formerly common climbing terms that have faded out of use, or changed so much in meaning that they no longer resemble their original usage?

Two examples that come to mind:

An "Egyptian" referencing a specific climbing move and body position. Used most commonly in the early sport climbing era. Remnant of it is the route name "Cryptic Egyptian" in Rifle. Nowadays no one uses this term and we just call it a "dropknee".

The "onsight flash" and "beta flash", each used as a single compound phrase. No one in the modern generation uses the full versions of these terms anymore. Nowadays these terms have shortened into the "onsight" and the "flash", respectively. 

Pinkpoint

JCM wrote:

On of the interesting and confounding aspects of this sport is it's rich lexicon of terminology. Like any form of language, the climbing terminology changes over time. New terms come into use, old term fade out of use, or terms change in meaning so that they no longer resemble their original use.  This thread focuses on the latter two scenarios: What are examples of formerly common climbing terms that have faded out of use, or changed so much in meaning that they no longer resemble their original usage?

Two examples that come to mind:

An "Egyptian" referencing a specific climbing move and body position. Used most commonly in the early sport climbing era. Remnant of it is the route name "Cryptic Egyptian" in Rifle. Nowadays no one uses this term and we just call it a "dropknee".

The "onsight flash" and "beta flash", each used as a single compound phrase. No one in the modern generation uses the full versions of these terms anymore. Nowadays these terms have shortened into the "onsight" and the "flash", respectively. 

Intriguing prompt. I just barely remember the "Egyptian" being used when I started climbing in 2011, then dropping off the radar shortly thereafter.

"Splitter" used to mean a straight-in crack ...

Matt Robinson wrote:

Pinkpoint

I thought this was very much still used. When me and my friends were learning to lead under a mentor, this is the word we used to describe "leading a single-pitch trad route with preplaced gear."

"Backstep" seems to have been hijacked by gym employees to mean something completely different than a decade or two ago.

"Traditional climbing" no longer means traditional climbing.

Trad

Trad climbing

Evan Noronha wrote:

I thought this was very much still used.

While it may be used in some circles its nowhere near as prevelant as it used to be and has all but disappeared from sport climbing lexicon where it ised to be much more popular.  Look at most climbing media and you'll encounter that pro climber Crushy McCrusherstein "lead the route on pre-placed gear" way more than you'll ever hear that someone pinkpointed the route.

"Classic" and "Epic" come to mind.

Splitter

aikibujin wrote:

"Backstep" seems to have been hijacked by gym employees to mean something completely different than a decade or two ago.

What does it mean now? Are people using it to mean leg behind the rope? As opposed the the prior definition of outside edging?

I pretty much only ever go to bouldering gyms for my plastic climbing,so I'm blissfully unaware of the current state of gym leading practices.

i think "flash" may be dying a sad death.  the other day i watched someone send a route after working it all day.  his girlfriend praised him for a "flash in a day".  i don't think she understood this word "flash".  or perhaps i don't?

slim wrote:

i think "flash" may be dying a sad death.  the other day i watched someone send a route after working it all day.  his girlfriend praised him for a "flash in a day".  i don't think she understood this word "flash".  or perhaps i don't?

The term "day flash" is the worst new term in climbing. It's even worse than the kids talking about the "condies". 

JCM wrote:

The term "day flash" is the worst new term in climbing. It's even worse than the kids talking about the "condies". 

I originally thought day flash meant sending within your first day of trying. I’ve now come to understand it as doing it your first try of the day (regardless of how many sessions you’ve had on it). I’m not making a case for the usability though, it’s a confusing term in general.

JCM wrote:

The term "day flash" is the worst new term in climbing. It's even worse than the kids talking about the "condies". 

I always knew it to mean "send first try of the day" for something you've been on before.

But recently people have starting using it to mean "send in a session," which doesn't make much sense to me.

sounds like a participation trophy kind of thing.

slim wrote:

sounds like a participation trophy kind of thing.

I think ticking all attempts is a participation trophy kinda behavior. This is more like celebrating third place in a race of three. 

Austin Donisan wrote:

I always knew it to mean "send first try of the day" for something you've been on before.

But recently people have starting using it to mean "send in a session," which doesn't make much sense to me.

Still better than "I got the on-sight on my 4th try!"

I think too many climbing areas have lost their proper, full name. Adirondacks is now Dacks. Frankenstein cliff (NH) is now Franks. Catskills are Cats. Smuggler's Notch is Smuggs. And so on. And yes, I realize that JT has been Josh and the Shawangunks has been Gunks since, well, probably forever.

JCM wrote:

What does it mean now? Are people using it to mean leg behind the rope? As opposed the the prior definition of outside edging?

I pretty much only ever go to bouldering gyms for my plastic climbing,so I'm blissfully unaware of the current state of gym leading practices.

Well, more like rope behind the leg, or leg in front of the rope... but yes, when getting someone lead certified in the gym I've been told to never back clip, never z clip, and never "backstep" when leading.