New and Experienced climbers over 50 #21

Lori Milaswrote:

What an incredible day this was! In order to climb Run For Your Life Zack and Nelson had to lead up Runaway, and I just stood watching in total awe.  “hips to the wall“, I am still trying to learn this difficult stance.  Yesterday  the closer I got to the wall the more easily I slid right off, so this must be more magic to learn. Pictures like this just make me forget all my troubles. I wish this was me up there on Runaway!

Lori, it is hips to the wall but not shoulders.  You want to be standing straight up and 90 degrees relative to gravity.  Don't ever lean in against the rock unless you are standing on big feet.

Buck Rogerswrote:

Hola!  Just checking back in now that I am officially over 50 (birthday in January!).

I used to check in a bit a few years ago but then the overwhelming dumpster fire of the Forums here on MP (not this thread) drove me away.

But moved to Colorado Springs last August and have been having fun trying to hit the 5.7 and down trad classics within a few hours from me with a couple excursions with ropegun partners to Moab.  The climbing here is just AMAZING!

Anyone on this thread live in Colorado?  

Welcome to the thread!  Have you climbed Montezuma Tower yet?  I led my best man and his wife up this the morning of my wedding day, while my wife was getting ready.  Great summit, with an easy and reasonably protected route.  Get on it if you haven't yet.

I was living in Denver at the time.  We got married in your neighborhood - in Manitou Springs.  We climbed a lot at Shelf at the time.  Lots of nice climbing on the Front Range, no question about it - I miss it.

GO

GabeOwrote:

Welcome to the thread!  Have you climbed Montezuma Tower yet?  I led my best man and his wife up this the morning of my wedding day, while my wife was getting ready.  Great summit, with an easy and reasonably protected route.  Get on it if you haven't yet.

I was living in Denver at the time.  We got married in your neighborhood - in Manitou Springs.  We climbed a lot at Shelf at the time.  Lots of nice climbing on the Front Range, no question about it - I miss it.

GO

Yup!

Great, fun climb up the Ridge!  I think it was my first climb in Colorado and definitely one to not be missed!

Also did "Durrance" on Devil's Tower last fall (pretty damn hard route for 5.7!) and "Kor's Flake" on Lumpy Ridge (no way it is 5.7!).

In Moab I did "Ancient Art" (one of the best routes anywhere that I've ever done) and Kor-Ingalls on Castleton Tower (no way in hell that's a 5.9!).

So loving living out here and hitting some of these classics.

Ancient art is wicked cool. I don't think Lorie would like the diving board.

thats my buddy Alex on the summit of that last shot.. . i don't look as relaxed but then again i am a better photographer than he is ;) 

Funny Todd. I’d misread your post and thought that you’d taken the base jumper up Ancient Art—and was trying to picture a running start off that!!!!  

Buck; way BITD when I did the Durrance it was rated 5.6–don’t know if the route has changed or just the grade since then.

phylp phylpwrote:

I love this so much.  Really, one of the best parts of climbing - spending the day having fun with friends old and new  

Thanks.  And thanks to GabeO for the pic.  It wass a great and rather enjoyable day.
Have you climbed at Mormon, Phylp?
Next time you back back East, and if the conditions are right for outdoor climbing, we can all meet there. Or Hanging Mtn (Sandisfield, MA) if that is closer to where you will be in CT.
I have only been to Hanging once but really liked it.  Hope to be there again tthis weekend.

S. Neohwrote:

Thanks.  And thanks to GabeO for the pic.  It wass a great and rather enjoyable day.
Have you climbed at Mormon, Phylp?
Next time you back back East, and if the conditions are right for outdoor climbing, we can all meet there. Or Hanging Mtn (Sandisfield, MA) if that is closer to where you will be in CT.
I have only been to Hanging once but really liked it.  Hope to be there again tthis weekend.

I’ll let you know if I plan a trip there. Thanks for the offer!

Hi all, long time no see, hope all is well, life got busy. Hope this is not OT, thought you might enjoy it. Rich led us up "Yum Yum Yab Yum" (5.4) yesterday. It was our first time on it. Wonderful climb, extremely vertical! Here's a pic of Rich under the roof before the upper traverse:

Hey dragons!  It’s been a long time!  I’ve wondered how you are doing… so glad you checked in.  Nice pic of Rich!

Jan… not to beat a dead horse.  I really appreciate your comment on posture on these steep face climbs (Ie. hips to the wall but not shoulders… 90 degree angle) and I’m still thinking about it.  Perhaps my slipping off the wall when I get too close has to do with shoulder/upper body positioning.  This is something I can focus on… so thank you!  

Being on just such a rock here in Donner on Tuesday I was focused on my problems with climbing it.  Chris was shouting up “stand up on that leg, Lori”…. And, standing on a very thin (or no) edge is hard on the feet, ankles and calves—if ankles wobble you’re going down…and hoisting upright on one leg also takes a lot of strength.  I’m seeing that the guys I know who are good at this are light and muscular and very flexible.  I hope it doesn’t all come down to weight,  The only consoling thought I have is that Bob is not light and compact, and he’s an incredible slab climber.  

When I get home from days like this my feet take the hit, especially from edging. I wonder if there are lower body exercises for this kind of climbing.  

dragonswrote:

Hi all, long time no see, hope all is well, life got busy. Hope this is not OT, thought you might enjoy it. Rich led us up "Yum Yum Yab Yum" (5.4) yesterday. It was our first time on it. Wonderful climb, extremely vertical! Here's a pic of Rich under the roof before the upper traverse:

What a great climb!  5.4 moves with 5.10 exposure!  That final traverse is amazing, and as protected as you could want.

GO

Ancient Art is super-cool.  I'd do it again any time.

I've been up Castleton twice, once by the North Face, which is a really stellar route, and once by the North Chimney.  The North Chimney ascent I did with my girlfriend at the time. I proposed to her at the top.  She said yes!

GO

dragonswrote:

Hi all, long time no see, hope all is well, life got busy. 

Hey Dragons!  Great to see a post from you!

Dragons, welcome back! I was wondering where you were. If you were okay. 

dragonswrote:

Hi all, long time no see, hope all is well, life got busy. Hope this is not OT, thought you might enjoy it. Rich led us up "Yum Yum Yab Yum" (5.4) yesterday. It was our first time on it. Wonderful climb, extremely vertical! Here's a pic of Rich under the roof before the upper traverse:

Off topic???  I don't think that exists in this thread, right???  ;)

Durrance was soooo polished.  It get's climbed about 10 times a day.  Not sure of the original rating but it was fun, no doubt.  Did the Bailey's Direct finish.

Going back in the fall to give the North Chimney a go once it cools down.  I've heard that it is a much better route than K-I.  

And yes, I'd do Ancient Art again and again, or at least until it falls down like the Cobra did!

Hi All- 

Buck good to see ya- so your 50 now? Kid.
Dragons - good to see you back.
Carl? It’s about time for a dark poem or a song? “Dead o Winter Blues”???? In California we are getting to the longest day, hottest day of the year. You are going for the shortest darkest one.

All those photos of the desert towers make me realize this fact, and I will share something with you all. Climbing on what I consider “mud” really scares the crap out of me! When I was a young climber I took a ground fall, pulling 2 bomber pieces out. I got the wind knocked out of me and whilst laying on the ground I recall thinking “this is one step away from being dead”. So I just stick to climbing on good stone mostly…. Sport choss is a different deal. So my hat is off to all you climbers who lead on that stuff. Respect.

And to OLH… Thanks for the tip about burlap bags and sprouting seeds. It worked!

I was able to keep the soil moist and cool enough for these to sprout.

Happy trails all. 

...and here is Dragons on the slab above the steep corner in her photo...(Yeah, the rope was behind my leg---corrected that on the next move.)

Todd Berlier wrote:

this evening im taking my kids up into the mountains with the popup. my oldest has an FA project shes been on 2 days and another smallish boulder for both my girls to get FAs on.

Wow, nice.  I aam so jealous.  That is plain awesome, Todd.
Good for you and the girls. Psyched for all of you!

@Ward, when will we have an Ella FA??  :) 

Todd Berlier wrote:

this evening im taking my kids up into the mountains with the popup. my oldest has an FA project shes been on 2 days and another smallish boulder for both my girls to get FAs on.

Super cool!  I'm putting together plans for a grownup day at Rumney this Saturday.  I'll go with another climber, while my wife will watch our daughter for the day.  Hard not to feel guilty, but I'm sure I will return the favor sometime.  

One thing I've realized is that it's really important to have a mix of activities.  Some things we do that are mostly fun for my daughter.  Some things we do that are mostly fun for my wife and I, but we do them in such a way that they are a compromise for everyone, and everyone is somewhat involved.  Some things my wife or I do on our own or with people outside of the family.  And some things my wife and I do just with each other as a couple.  Without doing at least a little of all of these things, I think our psyches and our relationships suffer.

Or maybe I'm just trying to rationalize ditching my family to go play for the day?

GO