The Art of Extension

Exhibit A:

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/118041959

If this was the anchor he just clipped, I maybe would have just moved on.

This photo just got me thinking about something I see a lot, and something I talk to my climbing partner about a decent amount, and something you should be highly encouraged to think about as a climber. Without the foresight to see where you need or dont need extended clips, you put you and your gear at unnecessary risk.

Without extending draws or gear past potential hazards, your rope is going to experience more damage by nature of added friction. This is all basic stuff, but again, I see people clip a bolt with a short draw while it's obvious it will ultimately create rope contact with a rock surface at some point along the way. An easy one to miss is when a route rolls in a bit but comes right back to the normal angle, creating a 'low point' in the path.

In this photo, there could have been two or maybe three extended draws placed before the roof. The size of the extension should be determined by how much is helpful. Try to picture the rope having the least amount of bends between placements, and specifically avoids rubbing against any rock surface. This 'lower friction' rope path will also be easier for a belayer to give a good consistent catch. 

The caveat is sometimes you can never do enough, by nature of the gear/bolt placements and the terrain. In that scenario, attempt to minimize the effect from the rock rub, or sharp angles between bolts, even if you cant stop it from happening. Or, even intentionally keep a clip short to avoid a sharper, more damaging looking rock area.  

When assessing a climb, look for bends in the route and the bolt line separately. Try to picture how the rope will run based on where the placements are, and the climbing path, separately. Determine what looks concerning; things like bulges, big traverses, roofs, or a random feature that is proud of the average plane of the wall, or an inset area like I just mentioned before. Anywhere your rope would touch, decide ahead what bolt or gear needs extension to avoid it. You get the idea. Think about it every route and your rope will last longer, and the catches will stay swell. 

'Stacking Draws' is easy to do by removing a carabiner and making a double/triple/etc stacked draw. These are preferred for sport, so you don't have to clip a twirling sling while you're cruxing. I always keep several alpine draws in the kit, but use them only if the clipping is fine, or the wind isn't blowing!

The moral of the story is, gear climb more so when you forget to extend your gear, you are immediately punished and you remember next time. Analyze the route, and extend if you need to. Pretty simple stuff, so sorry for wasting your time- old timer. 

What other tactics do you all use for extensions, or analyzing routes and things to look out for with rope friction in mind?

All good thoughts! 

In the opposite direction, I often see newer trad climbers extend pieces unnecessarily. This wastes time, energy, and gear. Once you get more advanced you can even choose placements that don't need extension as opposed to others nearby that do. I bring fewer draws than I used to since I've learned to be selective about my placements. 

Adam Flemingwrote:

All good thoughts! 

In the opposite direction, I often see newer trad climbers extend pieces unnecessarily. This wastes time, energy, and gear. Once you get more advanced you can even choose placements that don't need extension as opposed to others nearby that do. I bring fewer draws than I used to since I've learned to be selective about my placements. 

Very much so. If it runs straight and is good gear, I dont extend at all. 

I sometimes clip high to the piece itself, add a long extension, but move on and then place the next piece before being out of reach of the previous, and then unclip the short clip from the previous clip. This will let the long extension take over, while being protected from a longer fall the entire time. This usually happens on significant wall angle, or path direction changes, so I would normally put in more pieces than normal in those spots anyways... it's not much extra fluff, for more protection. 

@Tradi- come do Rebar and tell me you extended more than 1 piece!

Matthew Jaggerswrote:

Very much so. If it runs straight and is good gear, I dont extend at all. 

Au contraire, rarely is a climb so straight and gear so good that there's no need to extend. Besides, during an on sight it's hard to know what's coming next. 

Extending that first piece is almost always good, avoiding outward forces and walking gear. I usually assume extension unless things get too pumpy. 

Long story short it's better to have extended and not needed to than not extended and needed to.

If in doubt, slings out.

( Plenty of times you don't want to extend, but more often the problem seen is people not extending enough. If your first piece is excellent and multidirectional, and close to inline with where the rope will go... excellent. Now think about what will happen in a fall and where the rope will be pulled out to... if its far enough out to produce a danger to zipper extended nuts higher above, you probably don't want to extend it so much. )

Like most aspects of this sport, the rock will tell what to do.  Having rules like extension is always better then no extension is simple minded.  

Some areas are more splitter, some places stuff wanders all over the place. Act accordingly.  

Actually used three alpines and 1 long sling to fight drag on Dr Ceuss last weekend.  In the route pic you can see where the long sling is required.  Btw, I almost aways use a few alpines on sport routes.  

Tradibanwrote:

Extending that first piece is almost always good, avoiding outward forces and walking gear. I usually assume extension unless things get too pumpy. 

Extending the first piece is usually wrong and probably the most common extension mistake people make.

Pieces lower on the pitch don't add much to rope drag, so there's less need to extend them.

People so often extend the first piece, then immediately enter decking territory again but pretend they're safe because they have gear in.

Double ropes

Austin Donisanwrote:

Extending the first piece is usually wrong and probably the most common extension mistake people make.

Pieces lower on the pitch don't add much to rope drag, so there's less need to extend them.

People so often extend the first piece, then immediately enter decking territory again but pretend they're safe because they have gear in.

I like no extension for the first few when it makes sense, and back clean pieces when possible. It's more time consuming and energy intensive, but if youre used to back cleaning, it's not that difficult.

Most gear climbers do a good job with extending gear. Most of the issues I see are with sport climbers who only bring 12cm draws everywhere they go. 

Austin Donisanwrote:

Extending the first piece is usually wrong and probably the most common extension mistake people make.

Pieces lower on the pitch don't add much to rope drag, so there's less need to extend them.

People so often extend the first piece, then immediately enter decking territory again but pretend they're safe because they have gear in.

It's not all about rope drag. Extend the first piece to accommodate the outward pull from the belay and extend your other gear to prevent walking cams, and popping nuts.

Austin Donisanwrote:

Extending the first piece is usually wrong and probably the most common extension mistake people make.

Pieces lower on the pitch don't add much to rope drag, so there's less need to extend them.

People so often extend the first piece, then immediately enter decking territory again but pretend they're safe because they have gear in.

Have to agree with the first two lines here. For tradi, if the belayer is keeping the rope so tight that it's creating an upward pull on the piece, then they must me putting at least 25lbs of shortrope force on you...that's hard to climb when your belayer is literally pulling on you. If your belayer is giving you a normal, reasonably attentive belay without shortroping you, then the rope is sagging slightly and it doing absolutely nothing to the cam. In a fall, there could perhaps be some slight outward and/or upward tension, but not much if they're against the wall (or at least not 10ft away from it!).

Tradiban wrote:

Talking about in the event of a fall. The goal is to create as straight a line as possible from belayor to climber. It's not possible for a belayor to do this for the first piece less they were inside the rock and even with the best possible position of leaning against the rock it's not practical to belay from there. Draw a picture for yourself if you're a visual learner.

I just drew a mental picture of a climber extending the first piece, falling in a straight line with zero rope drag and decking.  The goal of extension is multi-faceted.  Rope drag, sharp edges, keeping placements in place and finally being able to look back down the pitch and admire the straight line that hopefully accommodated all of that.  Many climbers, myself included, attempt to place a good cam (multidirectional) as a first piece, usually without extension to prevent decking in the event of a fall.  I rarely worry about that first bend in the rope from the belayer to the first piece.  It provides minimal drag and, contrary to your mental picture, the belayer doesn't have to be "inside" the rock to avoid or minimize that bend.

Lol I see a lot of climbers, green and experienced alike, shredding ropes over the edges of roofs at the new. Lotta deep 90* roofs and most people are only bringing a sport rack without any alpines.

Todd Jenkinswrote:

I just drew a mental picture of a climber extending the first piece, falling in a straight line with zero rope drag and decking.  The goal of extension is multi-faceted.  Rope drag, sharp edges, keeping placements in place and finally being able to look back down the pitch and admire the straight line that hopefully accommodated all of that.  Many climbers, myself included, attempt to place a good cam (multidirectional) as a first piece, usually without extension to prevent decking in the event of a fall.  I rarely worry about that first bend in the rope from the belayer to the first piece.  It provides minimal drag and, contrary to your mental picture, the belayer doesn't have to be "inside" the rock to avoid or minimize that bend.

A 10in extension won't make the difference between a deck and a clean whip, it's 10 inches, that's like half a move.

Yes, to "minimize" the bend at the first piece they need to be as close to the wall as possible but in order to get that rope nicely straight they would have to be kissing the wall or inside of it. 

Point is that there's always some bend and belayors have a natural tendency to be at least a few feet from the wall, especially under the first piece, so they don't get falled upon.

Tradibanwrote:

A 10in extension won't make the difference between a deck and a clean whip, it's 10 inches, that's like half a move.

Yes, to "minimize" the bend at the first piece they need to be as close to the wall as possible but in order to get that rope nicely straight they would have to be kissing the wall or inside of it. 

Point is that there's always some bend and belayors have a natural tendency to be at least a few feet from the wall, especially under the first piece, so they don't get falled upon.

I can agree with that, obviously every scenario is different. I'm not sure what the OP is rambling about though, are we talking sport or trad here? It seems more and more development is including perma draws and often chain/cable extended permas so really if its not pre-extended like the gyms than its all on the cheapo developer right? Any trad climber with minimal experience would extend under a roof, sport climbers tend to want well bolted routes right? The sport climb used as an example by the OP is a great climb and is absolutely fine without extension.

I am very much studying this thread in preparation for my ascent of mountainproject.com/route/1…

Tradiban wrote:

Talking about in the event of a fall. The goal is to create as straight a line as possible from belayor to climber. It's not possible for a belayor to do this for the first piece less they were inside the rock and even with the best possible position of leaning against the rock it's not practical to belay from there. Draw a picture for yourself if you're a visual learner.

The goal is to protect the pitch efficiently. If I know I'll be placing nuts I'll try to not extend a solid outward piece below them.

DrRockso RRGwrote:

I am very much studying this thread in preparation for my ascent of mountainproject.com/route/1…

Don't worry, Erik, you very much couldn't pull the crux even if you were being aided up on TR. I thought you gave up trolling me after you embarrassed yourself in front of your clients.

Matthew Jaggerswrote:

Don't worry, Erik, you very much couldn't pull the crux even if you were being aided up on TR. I thought you gave up trolling me after you embarrassed yourself in front of your clients.

DrRockso RRGwrote:

I am very much studying this thread in preparation for my ascent of mountainproject.com/route/1…

Another example of mountain project is mostly used for ego reinforcement! No reply to the subject matter! 3 of your last 6 ticks are 2 star and below routes, yet here you are to start a flame war with Mathew! 

On the subject matter. Even on perma drawed routes I will sometime bring slings to extend permas, if I extend a couple permas sometimes I can just skip bolts and minimize rope drag even more!