hip belay

is this kinda like how hip belays were in the early days of climbing when the leader took a big whiper?   https://www.reddit.com/r/nextfuckinglevel/comments/thlxe8/norwegian_physicist_risk_his_life_demonstrating/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

 Google hip belay

btw how do you make a tidy hyper link?

This is more akin to the leader jumping into the other side of a ridge than a hip belay in terms of force and counter-force. Either way, good to see that it could work. Kind of. 

Before belay devices, a hip belay was how it was done.  And it worked, still does in a pinch.

Steve Williamswrote:

Before belay devices, a hip belay was how it was done.  And it worked, still does in a pinch.

I've done it once or twice on moderate terrain where no other belay possibilities were close at hand and/or fall potential was almost non-existent. If done properly it's a great way to give a partner that (sometimes needed) extra bit of confidence. 

I climbed for 5 yrs or more using a hip belay. Did the Salathe Wall using hip belays. Held a few good ones, NBD

Modern climbers usually think I’m crazy if I do it now

Hips, shoulders, trees, rocks all work well.

I grew up using a hip belay, still use it on occasion. Freaks people out in the climbing gym. Boot-axe belays are good too.

The mechanics of a hip belay catching a free falling body are a lot more like a grigri, where the body of the belayer is the cam. As the force is transferred  to the belayer, the belayer's body will twist into a position that increases the angle over which the force is applied and the brake hand increases the area over which friction is induced. Using a belayer as a cam to catch and hold a body does often have consequences obviously.

This is more like how a Revo works. As long as the body is falling, the angular momentum of the weight (the belay device) is increasing, accelerating the speed at which it wraps the horizontal post. Interestingly, if you change the release point of the weight, the relative mass of the body to the weight, the length of the relative parts of the rope or really anything in the video, you begin to see how amazing the engineering of the Revo is and also why it acts so differently then anything else. 

Carson Mcwrote:

….This is more like how a Revo works. As long as the body is falling, the angular momentum of the weight (the belay device) is increasing, accelerating the speed at which it wraps the horizontal post. Interestingly, if you change the release point of the weight, the relative mass of the body to the weight, the length of the relative parts of the rope or really anything in the video, you begin to see how amazing the engineering of the Revo is and also why it acts so differently then anything else. 

You might not be so enamored with the Revo if you knew how many Homunculi they went through during testing and development…it’s a dirty little secret  

What on earth has that to do with hip belays?

Mark Pilatewrote:

... if you knew how many Homunculi they went through during testing and development…it’s a dirty little secret  

This. Less enamored then amazed. 

Jim Tittwrote:

What on earth has that to do with hip belays?

Jim, do I have to diagram it out?  Carson’s post was about the Revo and GriGri mimicking the body mechanics of changing angles and increasing friction similar to the hip belay.  Mine was a joke about original testing and development of belay devices back in the day using tiny little people attached to your harness doing hip belays…some of those experiments didn’t turn out so well, but we’ve come along way since. 

I meant the original video. The GriGri /Revo stuff is dubious!

Hip belay?

No ... that's just a typical leader/belayer interaction after the leader finds the limits of unlimited breadsticks at Olive Garden.

Maybe Considerwrote:

is this kinda like how hip belays were in the early days of climbing when the leader took a big whiper?   https://www.reddit.com/r/nextfuckinglevel/comments/thlxe8/norwegian_physicist_risk_his_life_demonstrating/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

 Google hip belay

btw how do you make a tidy hyper link? 

That's a fun clip! Jim Titt is right, though, not much of anything to do with hip belay. Maybe you can bill it as a solo simulrappel device!   

Story about hip belays. I did the Nose in79 and we used hip belays the whole way. My partner led the summit overhangs and I was getting ready to follow when my headlamp failed. It was a pitch black moonless night, so we decided it would be safer for me to follow the pitch on belay rather than use ascenders on a fixed line, which would have involved taking one ascender off the rope in the dark at every bolt. The bolt ladders on the summit overhangs were a horror show back then, the original Harding bolts, all rusty and some hanging out of the hole so far that people had tied off the stud behind the hanger to reduce leverage. I was on the bolt at the very lip of the second overhang and it pulled out. I fell about 15 feet back first and ended up hanging in space 20 feet out from the wall. I found my ascenders and clipped them onto the rope and climbed back up to a bolt, the whole time hanging off a hip belay. Hip belays work