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Your Favorite Slab
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As a lover of slab climbing, I've decided on my travels I would like to do people favorite slabs instead of highly rated guidebook slabs. So let's hear it people. What are your favorite slabs in your area? Any grade, any protection. In fact if it has a mental test with the slab climbing, even better! I can start it off. I have lots of favorite slabs so I'll name a few. The first pitch of Fiddler on the Roof in Tuolumne is an incredible slab with some serious mental game needed. Solid Gold in Joshua Tree is phenomenal and one of my favorite climbs of all time. Magical Mystery Tour is an absolute masterpiece of mental game on 5.8 knobs/slab. I'd say it's the 5.8 version of the BY. That Old Soft Shoe is an awesome sustained slab in josh with incredible movement for its short lived life. Needle and spoon is 50x better than Dike Route yet never gets talked about. Truckin Drive in T.M wow soooo good.. Stand and Deliver (AKA Spanish Bombs) in Joshua tree might be the most impressive slab climb I've ever tried. Linking this climb together seems rather impossible and is only graded 12a. and of course...... Table of Contents in Tuolumne. One of the best climbs I've done! My all time favorite slab climb isssssss Mid-Life Crisis in the valley. Oh wowwww, it's just so good and long but a very very very close second is EBGB's in Josh, if ebgbs was as long as MLC it would absolutely be my favorite. |
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North Carolina has amazing multipitch slab! Looking Glass Rock is one of the crown jewels. |
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In the places I’ve climbed (admittedly not that many known for slab) I’d have to go with Sliding Board at Whitehorse Ledge. What really makes it #1 is the setting especially in Fall when the leaves are changing. But EBGBs in J Tree is right up there too… so good, and just the right amount of excitement! But like you said a little on the short side. |
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Ok I’ll play… thanks for giving some examples. Reefer Madness- Yosemite Valley, Royal Arches Apron. I, along with some friends did the first 3pitches, others with better sticky rubber pushed it to its logical finish. Welcome to Courtright- not all slab but up close to the top one climbs a remarkable slab protected with tri-cams and runners through little holes in the stone. Carson/Kodas Arete - Courtright- the slabby section leading to the arete. On Any Given Sunday. Kern River. Rincon, second tier, 160 feet of hard “dimples”. 100 Feet of Feet -Sherman Pass- Sherman Tank formation. The entire Weeping Wall. Suicide Rock I got more but I need to go now. If you’re making a hit list DM me for more information.
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Guy Keeseewrote: Ha! I definitely had a weird order going on. I just kept being like OH yeah! That one, that one too! Hahah anyways thanks for these. I'm definitely making a hit list so I will DM you! |
Cory Bwrote: Yes, this. For the uninitiated, imagine taking all the best (Squamish Chief) pitches of Born Again and Over the Rainbow, and stack them into something as long as Angel's Crest... That's Skits. Start early and move fast before the slab heats up and melts your rubber! |
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3rd flatiron. Anywhere from 5.0-5.7 depending on your line. The route 'extra point' goes through the painted U and has a couple balance moves at least 50 feet above pro. |
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Too many JT, Suicide, and Tuolumne routes to mention individually. Whitehorse for easier slabs. Dome Rock for harder ones. Some nice ones in the SPlatte and Dream Canyon. |
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Crest Jewel on North Dome in Yosemite. Even though I feel like a vey solid slab climber, that route was like a full immersion crash course in “all slab all the time”. |
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The Viewing (LCC), the last pitch of Pentapitch (LCC), The Scientist (Dream Canyon) |
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Oh god there are so many. You have over 1000 routes ticked so I can’t look through to see which ones you’ve already done , but the crux slab on Piece de Resistance was amazing. Didn’t lead that one. A route call spud hammerhead in COR sticks in my mind as being really nice. In the Valley, Dead Babies sticks in my mind , but pretty much everything on the Apron is excellent. I’m traveling so I can’t look at my guidebooks, but if you like slab and have the mammoth lakes guidebook check out trenchtown rock. Worth a trip up there even with long approach. There is one wall in the ORG that has some really nice slabs. I’d look them up but I’m in a wine bar so I’m somewhat distracted. |
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Some of favs in da Wasatch: intensive-care, dark-horse, mind-blow |
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Reality Check, Yak Peak. |
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Moon dance just to left of Sundance at Suicide is the most quality slab route I’ve been on in my opinion. |
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If I had to pick a single Suicide climb it would be Rebolting Development. Or maybe Seasons End, Valhalla, Disco Jesus, Moondance, New Generation, or Ten Karat Gold. |
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Science Friction - Red Circuit #34, Apremont, Fontainebleau "V3" |
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If you like slabs, you must make a stop at Calaveras Domes. Beacons to Mars is a unique classic. Doing Sole Sacrifice while you’re there is a must. Shaking all Over is classic from start to finish and Set the Controls for the Heart of the Sun is an absolute must. You’ll never climb anything quite like it. And some of the absolute best moderate slab outside Yosemite is 30 minutes away if you’re willing to delve into the obscure and find it. |
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Lots of great Tuolumne/JT climbs that I would second in this thread. Time for some Lake Tahoe action. Bolee Gold - Sugarloaf It’s Better With Bacon - Hogsback/Lover’s Leap Duppy Conqueror - The Emeralds (really the whole kudos wall is great and sub 90 degrees) All the amazing looking routes I haven’t done at Calaveras Dome |
TBlomwrote: There’s pro on the third flat iron?
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Caught Up in the Air, Cedar Rock, NC Fathom, Laurel Knob, NC Future Shock. Whitehorse, NH |
