Unsung Heroes of Climbing History

John Gillwrote:

I'm surprised Pete Cleveland's name has only come up a couple of times here. Maybe it's because he belongs to an older generation. Pete was a fierce competitor on the boulders, and if you had watched him, poised and confident high up on tiny nubbins in the Needles of the Black Hills, you would never have forgotten his performances. His climbs at Devils Lake, of course, are legendary. And after Chounard and Kamps had attempted the north face of the Crooked Thumb on Teewinot in the Tetons, with Yvon doing a swan dive off an errant piton, Pete went up and completed the climb. I have nothing but praise for Pete.

For the assembled that don't know of John Gill (more not known by this generation than unsung by historians) this is the first man to use gymnastics chalk for climbing and put up the hardest boulder problems in the world in the 60's before bouldering was remotely a recognized official sub-genre of rock climbing. Arguably he elevated bouldering with just a few others to a legitimate activity and pursuit of excellence on its own.

A true legend among us.

Mikey Waugh.  Bold strong and stayed under the radar.   

Don't forget the completely unknown climbers, who predate climbing.

I think about this often, when I'm bouldering along the Snake river. I'm 100% confident bored kids clambered up the stuff 10,000 years before Matt Fultz got bored as a kid and started working out super hard shit!

But? 

Peaks ascended here in Idaho often will have a respectfully noted "first recorded ascent". More than once, parties have made a glorious first ascent to bag some peak....and found a geologic marker up top, lol! Even with no sign of anyone up top, it's still not a given it hasn't been done.

It's kinda like so much else in history. We go someplace new to us, discover something new to us, give it a name in our language, and take ownership. 

And Fritz? I too wish you could have met Earl! I sure enjoyed meeting other climbers with you!

Best, Helen

Mike Libecki

Gumby Kingwrote:

Mike Libecki

Winner of the Father of the Year at his daughter's school. More than once. So, clearly not unsung.

I do envy how he manages so many sponsorships to travel as much as he does. Assuming it isn't his own cash.

This thread is clearly more about WELL SUNG "heroes" than not. The quiet types go unnoticed.

Teton Climberwrote:

Winner of the Father of the Year at his daughter's school. More than once. So, clearly not unsung.

I do envy how he manages so many sponsorships to travel as much as he does. Assuming it isn't his own cash.

This thread is clearly more about WELL SUNG "heroes" than not. The quiet types go unnoticed.

I agree but I feel Mike is in a niche.  I bet nearly 70% of the people who climb (including exclusive gym climbers) don't know his name or what he's done.  But you know, the time is now.  Why ration passion?

George Lowe.

His cousin Jeff used to say that if you really wanted to get up something then go with George.

A multi-media wizard who is also a really nice person and the only guy I know with a buttress on Everest named after him.

Ross Exlerwrote:

Rich Romano

What he said, plus:

Jim Munson

Rich Gottlieb 

Dave Lanman 

Chip Ruckgaber 

Dave Anderson

Mike Friedrichs 

James Garret 

all of which I am proud to have climbed with.

plus:

Aliester Crowley, who was considered a heretic long before he claimed to be the incarnation of the great beast 666, for climbing in the alps without a guide. Also one of if not the 1st to address egos in climbin.

Rick Sylvester for his Bond stunts, FAs and fodder for stories on how to live cheaply

Rick LaBell for all the moderate routes he’s developed and kids he has taught to climb.

I wonder whether Hans Haidegger merits inclusion here; maybe not heroic but certainly unsung. His 1937 solo Eigerwand attempt/recce was - if the recorded details are accurate - extremely impressive.

John Hymer

Names without a story or a reason for inclusion, means that name remains unsung. Besides Sly Stallone, of course. #YO!

Alan Bard introduced me to John Dill in Yosemite after he greeted us after a grand day climb with cold drinks . 

Bill Buckingham.

Frank Jordan 

Shout out to PNW

Bryan Burdo

Hon mention: Kim Schmitz

alpinist 47wrote:

Frank Jordan 

Spelled 'Jourdan' (German). His CA exploits remain staggering feats. What else did he do?

Steph Abegg

Here is little bit about Frank Jourdan’s 94 trip to the Canadian Rockies.  Insane.

https://gravsports.com/Aerobic%20Pages/frankjourdan.htm

I think he made a couple more trips up to Canada that ended with some impressive ticks.