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Unsung Heroes of Climbing History

Not Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17
Mitch Montywrote:

My vote would have to be the Doug Reed. (Porter Jarrard already mentioned above)

The sheer number of quality routes he's put up between the NRG, WNC, and the Little River Canyon is mind boggling. A nice guy to boot

I totally forgot about Doug, I second this post. He’s contributed a good amount to the RRG as well. 

Sofa King Watt · · Left side of the continent/… · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 2,344
James Arnoldwrote:

Anyone remember Raleigh(?)  _______ ? He committed suicide some years back iirc---  I always used to run into him a ton on the Eastside (CA). Shared a rope a few times, wish it would have been more. 

On that same note, I had a similar  relationship with Dave Pegg out in Rifle. Miss 'em both. 

Raleigh Collins.

Also, I must mention, one of the most unsung, big wall climbers, Steve Gerberding

Not Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17
Greg Miller wrote:

Joe kinder for his memes

Strictly for his memes   

Anthony L · · Hobo gulch · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 20

Pete Cleveland!

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756

The theme here is that the unsung hero's are the people whos climbs you actually do.

The overrated hero's are the people whos climbs you will probably never do. 

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285

Dares Krol and Owen Summerscales 

F r i t z · · North Mitten · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,190

If we open up the prompt to contemporary crushers, my top vote is Rob Pizem. Despite having a full+ time job and a family, he slays hard trad in a variety of styles and regularly puts up big new routes. Blue collar work ethic and razor-sharp time management skills. The man earns it.

almostrad · · BLC · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 17

Came in to say Cosgrove, and have to second Bill Price.  He put up pretty much every dream crack near me, and I'm sure it's tip of the iceberg. 

Robert Barnes · · Little Black Mountain · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

Ray Olson and the Poway Mountain Boys, the SDSU kids who have unknowingly soloed everything at Mission Gorge, & a cool dude named Local Bias.

Bryan K · · Chattanooga · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 660

Joanne and George Urioste.  I think they have a solid title to having some of the most frequently traveled routes anywhere.  People from all over the world line up to climb their classic routes in Red Rock.

Jay Michael Climber · · California · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 0

Fred Beckey, Todd Skinner-Paul Piana big wall team, John Roskelly (as good as Messner @ high altitude in the day & for years America’s best ice climber & good rock climber to boot- Ed Viester’s self professed  limit was 5.6 & WI 3 & mediocre skiing) Doug Englekirk (unrivaled American crimp endurance) Jim Karn (really the only American male to do well at world cups for the last 30 years until this last year), Scott Cosgrove, Louie Anderson for general contributions.
Lets do this thread with just the opposite- Overhyped American climbers that have never been even close to the top of their respective disciplines, & done few significant first ascents. Many names come to mind. Sponsors would dislike the direction this thread would take. 

John RB · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 194

I met some guy at the gym today... said his name was Pat Adams.

Pete S · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 223

Rusty Ballie - old man of hoy, routes in PNW, ect. 

Pino Pepino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0

Josune Bereziartu

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,300

Roger Briggs

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Peter Mayfield and Bill Price for sure

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756

Phil Knight deserves some praise as well for not letting Nike takeover the climbing shoe industry. However I would be lieing if I didn’t say climbing Jordan’s would be so ill.

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695

Hopefully she doesn't mind the attention, but Shannon Stuart Smith is the most underappreciated climbing figure in America. She's the reason the Red River Gorge southern regions are climbable for all of eternity, and she's the reason that the Access Fund has a rock solid approach to help buy properties for Coalitions around the country.

She is still actively crushing and developing too,  and has put up some extra nice routes on top of all the rest.

hillbilly hijinks · · Conquistador of the Useless · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 214
Mark Hudonwrote:

Peter Mayfield and Bill Price for sure

I'd put you up there, Mark, but your accomplishments are pretty sung...;)

We should also mention Tony Yaniro...FA of Grand Illusion hardest route in the world at the time and co-inventor of Levittation for climbing teh wide.

Viciously slandered in the Valley for his efforts...

John Gill · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 27

I'm surprised Pete Cleveland's name has only come up a couple of times here. Maybe it's because he belongs to an older generation. Pete was a fierce competitor on the boulders, and if you had watched him, poised and confident high up on tiny nubbins in the Needles of the Black Hills, you would never have forgotten his performances. His climbs at Devils Lake, of course, are legendary. And after Chounard and Kamps had attempted the north face of the Crooked Thumb on Teewinot in the Tetons, with Yvon doing a swan dive off an errant piton, Pete went up and completed the climb. I have nothing but praise for Pete.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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