Unsung Heroes of Climbing History

Steve Hong is a badass. His imprint is pretty widespread, and was on the cutting edge of what was possible. 

beensandbaggedwrote:

John Turner

might as well throw in his partner Ben Poisson.

Louie Anderson. You'll be hard pressed to find anyone who has put up more FAs of quality sport pitches. 

Phil Gleason and Pete Doorish. Both are Washington locals, although Phil would be best known  in Yosemite. Good examples of your favorite climber's favorite climber('s favorite climber)

It'd be hard to find a spot in the Northwest that Pete didn't climb rope solo 30+ years ago. 

Reave Castenholz. Claw hammer banjo player, and friend. A true climber, used to wake me up with a blunt and a one liter Nalgene of cold quadruple strength Folgers crystals.

alpinist 47wrote:

Earl Wiggins free soloed the 2nd ascent of the scenic cruise in the black canyon onsight

In 1979 ( not sure of date )

15 pitches 10+

Monumental achievement!

He also soloed, although I prefer the term third classed, outer limits in the valley when he was 16 or so and still in high school.

Woodsonwrote:

Steve Hong is a badass. His imprint is pretty widespread, and was on the cutting edge of what was possible. 

The last time I talked to Steve, he asked me if people still climbed at Indian Creek. 

I think he has a kid that's pretty alright, too.

Long Rangerwrote:

The last time I talked to Steve, he asked me if people still climbed at Indian Creek. 

I think he has a kid that's pretty alright, too.

Steve is probably still crushing. His son Matty is as well.

https://www.dailycamera.com/ci_26680962/steve-and-matty-hong-boulder-crush-climbings-generation

2014 article. Mega talented fam there. 

Rich Romano

Montgomery Wick. 

Dave Meyerwrote:

Louie Anderson. You'll be hard pressed to find anyone who has put up more FAs of quality sport pitches. 

He's certainly left his mark on countless sport crags across America   

F r i t zwrote:

I wish I could have met him. When I interviewed Stewart Green, he said Earl was not happy about the insecure fingerlocks of the shallow dihedral on the enduro pitch. Pretty sure he did it in EB's. I can't imagine doing the second traverse pitch ropeless with only one prior burn.

He was wearing kronhaufers

No chalk bag!

Ryan Bowenwrote:

The crusty old dudes that come on MP and complain about anything new really have my admiration. 

Why, thank you very little my young pup!

:P

Bill Price was the best all around rock climber of his generation (mid Seventies to early 80's) followed by Tony Yaniro then in third Mark Hudon (once they got a bit more aid chops, imo). This is saying quite a bit when you put him up against the accomplishments of the Stone Masters of the seventies and amazing all-around climbers like Ron Kauk and Dale Bard. Bill Price put up as hard or harder routes than any of them both free and aid and most were not equally accomplished in the various disciplines.

Bill Price and partner still hold the youngest team record on the Nose (pre cam which is all that matters) at 14 and 15 in 1975. Yep, they nailed parts of it. You're welcome, Lynn Hill! ;P 

Bill Price FA South Seas, Born Under a Bad Sign, Sunkist, Cosmic Debris, 3rd ascent Phoenix, flash FA of Silly Willy Crack (hardest flash in the world at the time) to name a few.

And who could forget Charlie Porter? His most productive years in the Valley FA Zodiac, Mescalito, Tangerine Trip, Grape Race, The Shield, Excalibur, New Dawn would fill the resume of a dozen other guys. He didn't think chiseling up blank corners with copperheads was legit and hung it up before PO and such became the new thing.

Only you know nothing whipper-snappers on MP could not know his name :P

Harumpf!

Herb and Jan Conn, Porter Jarrard, Dave Pegg, Ken Trout, and Charlie Kardaleff all come to mind for me. 

Anyone remember Raleigh(?)  _______ ? He committed suicide some years back iirc---  I always used to run into him a ton on the Eastside (CA). Shared a rope a few times, wish it would have been more. 

On that same note, I had a similar  relationship with Dave Pegg out in Rifle. Miss 'em both. 

Yeah, Pegg. Definitely Dave Pegg. 

I'll nominate all of those climbers who have dedicated hundreds of thousands of hours on access issues over the past 30+ years. Many names people will never know and is a list far too long. And given this year is the 30th Anniversary of the Access Fund, think about making an end of the year contribution to the organization.

My vote would have to be the Doug Reed. (Porter Jarrard already mentioned above)

The sheer number of quality routes he's put up between the NRG, WNC, and the Little River Canyon is mind boggling. A nice guy to boot

Skip Guerin

Rich Bechler

Pete Cleveland

Mike Paul

Bill Russell