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Unsung Heroes of Climbing History

hillbilly hijinks · · Conquistador of the Useless · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 214

Greg Barnes and Clint Cummins for founding the ASCA and replacing countless anchors.  Roger Brown also teamed up with Clint to rebolt countless routes.

Not a big deal you say? You go and rebolt Hall of Mirrors or The Nose and the like and get back to me. 

alpinist 47 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
ABBwrote:

Spelled 'Jourdan' (German). His CA exploits remain staggering feats. What else did he do?

Diamond onsight free solo

3 rts in one day

Up yellow wall down casual up pervitical ( if I remember correctly)

Mid 90's

He casually mentioned this while we were climbing in the south platte

Also said he soled the eiger north face when he was 18!

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669
alpinist 47wrote:

Diamond onsight free solo

3 rts in one day

Up yellow wall down casual up pervitical ( if I remember correctly)

Mid 90's

Was that Derek Hersey?

alpinist 47 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

^^^^^^short answer no

I climbed with Frank around this time 

This is first hand info

Derek also climbed three rts on the diamond in similar fashion  ( not sure what rts ) Crusher You out there?

Teton Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1

Ain't spraying for him.

apross · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,973

East Coast. Doug Madera

West Coast. Bill Boyle

alpinist 47 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Drew Spaulding 

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669
alpinist 47wrote:

^^^^^^short answer no

I climbed with Frank around this time 

This is first hand info

Derek also climbed three rts on the diamond in similar fashion  ( not sure what rts ) Crusher You out there?

Not to say Frank didn't, but Derek sure did. If that was a repeat - hell of a repeat!

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP19/mountain-profile-longs-diamond/7

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

John Stannard

Not only could he climb (and free routes), he was the best at cleaning crags up--I think he still picks up trash at J-tree. . . 

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

Kevin Thaw

Strings Attached · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 0

To every outlaw,

alpinist 47 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Tobin Sorenson

John Gill · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 27
Steve Williamswrote:

John Stannard

Not only could he climb (and free routes), he was the best at cleaning crags up--I think he still picks up trash at J-tree. . . 

Totally agree. John was an amazing climber, a legend in the Gunks.

And Rich Goldstone (rgold on MP) - the most elegant rock climber I've ever seen.

Ackley The Improved · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 0
Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

Warren Harding didn't get as much acclaim for his trolling as Tradiban. 

I saw Warren at a fund raiser, someone asked him about Lynn’s freeing the nose, he said something like” if you call that free climbing”

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695
Ackley The Improvedwrote:

I saw Warren at a fund raiser, someone asked him about Lynn’s freeing the nose, he said something like” if you call that free climbing”

Please explain. Did he not know she free'd it, or is there another way of defining it?

Ackley The Improved · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 0
stephen arsenault · · Wolfeboro, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 72

Has Jimmie Dunn been mentioned yet?

Teton Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1
John Gillwrote:

And Rich Goldstone (rgold on MP) - the most elegant rock climber I've ever seen.

Started in the Tetons, too. 1957 with Exum at 14-years-old

Matthew Tangeman · · SW Colorado · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,118

I don't get how so many people are saying Beckey and Skinner. Hard to imagine a bigger name than Beckey especially in the PNW. And everyone at least knows of Skinner, right?

Someone said Pete Doorish and I agree, definitely a visionary and it's amazing how far in the backcountry he was establishing rope solo FAs. 

Kevinmurray · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0

Ed Webster

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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