Etiquette: partner rope replacement
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I'd just ask my partner what type of rope they wanted and then buy one. That conversation would be their opportunity to offer to split it, but I wouldn't offer that first, I'd just act like I was buying a new one. If they say they just want to split it, I'd go with that. If I did give them a new rope, I would hint at letting them give me the old rope, because I have plenty of uses for a 50 m. Plus it'd be cool to have it after that fall. On second thought, this would all depend on where this partnership was going. If I didn't like the person, I'd peace out. If I wanted to keep them as an occasional partner but not as friend, I'd give them 50% of their ropes value on sale. If I was close with the person or wanted to be close with the person, I'd do as I wrote above. |
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Worst case scenario: a partner falls on my brand new rope and core shots it right in the middle. If that partner doesn't replace the rope, that partner is a shithead. It would damage our relationship. Now if it was an old rope, I wouldn't mind so much nor would I expect my partner to replace my old ratty rope with a new one. Some other thing, like buying a nice dinner on the way home, would be more appropriate then. |
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As with any climbing gear, and friends - "You Break It, You Buy It!" |
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Lotsa people mentioned how this rope saved his life, but really it was actually this PARTNER that saved his life. I say at minimum, they owe YOU a beer and a new rope |
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Imagine having someone guide you up a route that you don't want to lead, them putting a coreshot in your rope, and then expecting them to get you a new one. |
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Jay Goodwinwrote: We'll be using your rope. right? :) |
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JohnWesely Weselywrote: imagine being nice enough to join someone on their desired route/proj, slogging up to some alpine choss, letting them use your rope, and they whip! don't die, but coreshot your rope, and don't offer to replace or 50% it. |
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IMO it all depends. If you are ok for cash at the momment and they are broke them I'd want to help out with replacment cost at least, especially if they are a mate. |
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Matt Nwrote: Uh yeah sounds right. Yes |
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JohnWesely Weselywrote: Apparently, even though what you say is historically the usual, the newer climbers dont seem to think this way and I'm not sure why. If my friend who was scared to lead was super poor I might give him my 60m for his 52m but no exchange of cash unless I did something stupid. I'd even lend that friend my 60 or 70 anytime. If both sides met in the middle you could prorate whats missing and give the guy 20 bucks but that is pushing it IMO. You can do most climbs in the world with a 52m rope. I still say he buys the beer for not having to take the fall. |
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This thread really doesn't need any more "correct" suggestions but they include "cut off 7m and buy him a beer, he's fine," "trade him your 60m for his 53m" "give him $20" The insane ones include "replace his rope," and "pay 50%", both of those are ridiculous and I can only surmise our current culture of lacking personal responsibility is at fault. Only 7m cut off? C'mon man, that's nothing, perfectly good alpine rope. You're welcome to offer to trade him your comparable 60m for his (now) 53m, but that's generous as it is. Dinner and/or a 6pack would have been more than I expected, and I'd have been perfectly happy with either, if it were me. |
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Christian Heschwrote: It doesn't matter what is right or fair, it's an opportunity to get some great karma for $200 bucks, peanuts. Buy the man a new rope. |
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Tradibanwrote: Da FUQ???? if I need good karma, I'll donate $200 to someone who's actually in need, not someone who lost a whopping 7m of rope. Heck, you might even need the $200 more than he does ;) |
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I would just buy my partner a new one. A good partner is worth a lot more than the cost of a rope. To me at least. |
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A good partner doesnt expect you to lead something cause they are unwilling. |
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Christian Heschwrote: So don't be cheap, donate your $200 and post the receipt here. |
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I donate 20-25x that per year but I do it out of personal convictions, not so I can get social media points on some climbing message board. |
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I donate 21-26x that per year but it is not a competition. |
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I'd give him one of my old ropes, and buy myself a new one... |
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If I was a rope compensator, I would never ever climb on someone else's rope. |





