Photos of BEAUTIFUL HARDWARE

Camo'ed + all stainless gives it that rustic edge? (textured spray paint / mate engine-block paint did not hold up as well as I hoped... I'll use a primer / some real powder-coated hangers next time!)

Nathan Pwrote:

Camo'ed + all stainless gives it that rustic edge? (textured spray paint / mate engine-block paint did not hold up as well as I hoped... I'll use a primer / some real powder-coated hangers next time!)

Kind of close to that crack, isn't it (I don't mean "ethics" wise), with the bolts in a similar plane. Is there a reason not shown in the photo? Nice camo job.

M Spraguewrote:

Kind of close to that crack, isn't it (I don't mean "ethics" wise), with the bolts in a similar plane. Is there a reason not shown in the photo? Nice camo job.

Totally fair point - yes, a wider angle photo would help put the anchor into context, unfortunately I didn't get one that day! The rock is columnar basalt that tends to fracture horizontally in these massive dinner plates.  The crack to the left is the space between two 8 foot or so solid columns.  My thinking was to prioritize putting the bolts in different horizontal planes, as the tops of these columns are most likely to dislodge (with evidence of this on adjacent columns and in the scree slope below!). Both bolts are at least 4 inches from the edge of the crack - totally could have moved it further from the crack, but this position was most plumb with the route.  I appreciate the feedback! 

C Williamswrote:

Some recent replacement work in Alaska.

I really like these Titan anchor sets, but they sure are a pain to place well!

Before and after from an anchor last fall. The top is a 1/2 x 5” Hilti KB-TZ in 304 stainless, and the bottom is a Fixe staple type gluein with 100mm legs. Not the biggest fan of them but they do work well in the softer stone in this area. 

Why did you not use hangers on the second picture?

Choss Chaserwrote:

Why did you not use hangers on the second picture?

The second picture is the old anchor...?

C Williamswrote:

The second picture is the old anchor...?

Nailed it. You can see the patched hole of the old-school, 90s-style hangerless bolts/chains in the upper left of last picture.   

The good 'ol chain and washer stack, AKA - let's save $2-3 by not using hangers.

The old chain anchor looks soled to me.

Luke Bertelsenwrote:

The good 'ol chain and washer stack, AKA - let's save $2-3 by not using hangers.

This particular wall is coated in them! Lead bolts, anchors, everything. Of the 57 bolts I’ve replaced on this wall three had proper hangers. Also fun, when the original bolts were installed the FAs had trouble with the holes wallowing out when hand drilling the soft rock. The solution was to wrap the studs in electrical tape so they would fit the holes. Good thing the area is fairly slabby...

C Williamswrote:

The solution was to wrap the studs in electrical tape so they would fit the holes. Good thing the area is fairly slabby...

Brilliant! Why haven't I thought of that!? This reminds me, our most popular local crag a few of these anchors still around that need updating!

What kind of rock is it?

Anyone (JT) ever consider an anchor design that intentionally keeps the eye off of the rock by a few inches? Seems like sometimes that would be very helpful to reduce the friction on routes that have anchor placements that are less than vertical, or even little protrusions just below. Random thought.

Just use a vertically orientated chainset with the lower bolt not installed to it's full depth. If the problem is the ring lies on the rock and falls over causing twisting or rubbing I also make a Joshua Tree style anchor with 3 10mm or 12mm custom chainlinks beside each other so they lie at right angles to the rock. Made 5 sets of these yesterday.

C Williamswrote:

This particular wall is coated in them! Lead bolts, anchors, everything. Of the 57 bolts I’ve replaced on this wall three had proper hangers. Also fun, when the original bolts were installed the FAs had trouble with the holes wallowing out when hand drilling the soft rock. The solution was to wrap the studs in electrical tape so they would fit the holes. Good thing the area is fairly slabby...

In actual testing the stacked washer thing is quite strong when new. While the chain is bearing the brunt of corrosion in the image the ones I see typically have the washers going fast. The nut would have minimal holding power once the washers fail so its obviously, quite a terrible solution over time.

Of course, this setup above is all mank from the beginning.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but other than cost savings the main idea here is that when this setup is used as the top anchor it will never experience lead falls.  I've never see the washer stack used in place of hangers on route versus just at the top, but it wouldn't shock me in the least.

Luke Bertelsenwrote:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but other than cost savings the main idea here is that when this setup is used as the top anchor it will never experience lead falls.  I've never see the washer stack used in place of hangers on route versus just at the top, but it wouldn't shock me in the least.

They used to do this down in Mexico pretty frequently, washer stack with 3 links of chain instead of a hanger. 

Luke Bertelsenwrote:

 I've never see the washer stack used in place of hangers on route versus just at the top, but it wouldn't shock me in the least.

Glad it wouldn't shock you, mountainproject.com/route/1…

See them on multi pitch climbs in NE WA and the Selkirks from the 90's. Gradually being replaced.

Who needs washers when a carriage bolt head is so wide..