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Photos of BEAUTIFUL HARDWARE


Original Post
Taylor Spiegelberg · · Lander & Sheridan, WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,446

Lots of talk about bad bolts in this forum. I love seeing pictures of good hardware, as it reinforces the fact that we as climbers maintain our hardware better than any land manager could. Let's see some photos of perfect anchors, interesting problems solved by good bolting, and other successes! 

I would love for this to turn into a thread of appreciation for all of the developers out there pouring their efforts into their hardware (and less of a "which bolt is best" page). Bolting situations can vary greatly. Maybe we can all gain some knowledge from seeing good work.

I'll start (read: spray about my own work):

1: New route. I really like to use staggered anchors like this when applicable as it wont twist the rope. Wave bolts and rings
2: Fixe glue in's replacing an antiquated anchor. Custom sharpie on the ClimbTech hooks. Gates out as it's easier to dump the rope in when you're pumped!
3: Old route replaced with ASCA stainless. Thanks Greg!
4: Psyched on this one. Bolt on the right was money, left placement was too hollow. I try not to use chain that often (as I mostly work on sport climbs) but it allowed the ring to be extended to the anchor (so the rope wouldn't rub on the rock) and for a bomber 1/2" stainless Power bolt up top.
Shawn Snyder · · Bishop CA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0
 Before photos   
 After   
Shawn Snyder · · Bishop CA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0
After. 
Shawn Snyder · · Bishop CA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0
 Split image done.   
Taylor Spiegelberg · · Lander & Sheridan, WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,446
Shawn Snyder wrote:
After. 

Gotta love the ClimbTech hooks!

Shawn Snyder · · Bishop CA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0
Taylor Spiegelberg wrote:

Gotta love the ClimbTech hooks!

 Yeah these are mussy hooks that we get from climb Teck.  Climb teck don't make them they just distribute them.  Thank you Greg    

Drew Nevius · · Oklahoma · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 1,884
Taylor Spiegelberg wrote:

Gotta love the ClimbTech hooks!

Agreed!
Taylor Spiegelberg · · Lander & Sheridan, WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,446
Drew Nevius wrote:

Agreed!

What type of rock is this? I really like this style of anchor: Bomber glue in's with hooks hanging over a lip so your rope doesn't wear on, or wear out, the rock. Nice!

C. Williams · · the Climber Cave · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 1,254

Keep these coming! You guys are doing good work, especially Shawn's patch jobs.

Taylor Spiegelberg · · Lander & Sheridan, WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,446

Work is slow today: Here's another style I've been playing with. Fixe ring on the left. Hanger, link, ring on the right. 1/2" SS Powerbolts. It's hard to tell from this angle, but when weighted, most of the weight goes on the replaceable ring on the right.


And lastly, my all-time favorite sport climbing lower-off. These Trango steel wiregates are a little easier to clip than the fat hooks, but too pricey to use all the time.
PatMas · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Hey Shawn, question regarding your mussey hooks, I’ve always seen them Opposite and opposed, any reason you position them with the gates facing the same way?

Drew Nevius · · Oklahoma · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 1,884
Taylor Spiegelberg wrote:

What type of rock is this? I really like this style of anchor: Bomber glue in's with hooks hanging over a lip so your rope doesn't wear on, or wear out, the rock. Nice!

The rock is pennsylvanian limestone in NE Oklahoma. Agreed, I liked how the mussys hung off the edge in the air. I think the band the bolts are in is actually slightly overhanging, so that helped too

Drew Nevius · · Oklahoma · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 1,884
PatMas wrote: Hey Shawn, question regarding your mussey hooks, I’ve always seen them Opposite and opposed, any reason you position them with the gates facing the same way?

Can’t answer for Shawn, but I put them both facing out on that route (which you should recognize in the photo below ;) ) so the pointed end of the hook wouldn’t grind into the rock, since the back is much smoother. They shouldn’t be TR’d on (when you’d want them opposite) anyway, so it’s safe enough for just lowering.


Tall Man’s 5.10
Dakota from North Dakota · · Golden, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 1,157

Taylor,

I have a sincere question in regards to your first photo of the staggered bolts. I'm down with this for multiple reasons, but that anchor is putting all the work onto one bolt instead of both. Why did you go with this instead of equalizing with a chain or something on the upper bolt?

Thanks!

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 367
Drew Nevius · · Oklahoma · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 1,884
DrRockso wrote:

I hope that’s a “before” photo and you’re about to show us what it looked like after you rebolted it

Luke Bertelsen · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 4,017
Shawn Snyder wrote:
After. 

I'm curious about the use of many SS quicklinks rather than one per side.  Seems expensive, no?

Luke Bertelsen · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 4,017

Regarding staggered anchors, what's the thought on uneven wear?

1. On the permanent anchor the topmost anchor always receives the bulk of the load and wear.

2. The same applies for when climbing parties use their own gear unless they equalize off of the staggered anchors.

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 367
J W · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,601
Dakota from North Dakota wrote: Taylor,

I have a sincere question in regards to your first photo of the staggered bolts. I'm down with this for multiple reasons, but that anchor is putting all the work onto one bolt instead of both. Why did you go with this instead of equalizing with a chain or something on the upper bolt?

Thanks!

Because equalization isn’t a thing and a bomber bolt is more than adequate for any loads an anchor will experience. The other bolt is just a backup.

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 367
Drew Nevius wrote: 

I hope that’s a “before” photo and you’re about to show us what it looked like after you rebolted it

It's a joke, took this a couple weeks ago,  it's the second to last anchor on the Nose, most people skip it to go straight to the last anchor which is probably why it's been left for historical value. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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