New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #14

Yesterday was one of those days when, even more than usual, I was so grateful to live here in JT. We were out all day in T-shirt weather, climbing at a crag all to ourselves, just a short walk from the car. We did only two routes, but in between climbs we spent a nice snack break enjoying the view from our perch high above the desert floor, at the Gilligan's Island area off the Boy Scout Trail. First we did Hit it, Ethyl, 5.8, (on the easy side of 5.8) a short crack to three bolts of slab climbing. I first did this route many years ago and I noticed that bolts are still the same, button-heads with funky looking hangers stamped "Cassin." I think they were placed by Ricardo Cassin sometime back in the 1930's.

Then we put a top-rope on a Bob Gaines route next door called Center Divider. I'm the first to admit that I suck at friction climbing, but even so, this thing really worked me! Bob rates it 5.9, but it's fairly sustained climbing, and definitely felt more than one grade harder than Hit it, Ethyl. I was quite happy to be able to pull it off with no falls, and even happier to get back down to take the shoes off of my aching feet!

Next, a little time off, then another climbing day in paradise.

I really like that area.  Brandt, my partner and I didn't have any info on Center Divider when we did it last year, I thought it was about 10b.  This is the problem when someone infinitely stronger and better than we are rates climbs (cough, cough, Bob Gaines).  

It was a gorgeous day here in southern California yesterday!  And today too!

Oh Brandt, so happy you got out yesterday. It sounds lovely.

I thought of you today when I wanted to climb something a little different from friction/slab and Chris took me over to an area called Sleepy Hollow. I had fun climbing a strenuous (for me) 5.8 gym-type climb and it turned out to be Bewitched! I didn’t know! What an incredible wall!

And a route a few yards to its left also had me totally intimidated... a little overhang and some underclings... this was all new to me and a little freaky.  Like “Oh shit. How do you climb THAT?”  And I couldn’t see my feet.

I always do better on the second climb but with my fingers toast and forearms totally pumped from hanging on too long it was hard to do it again. So this is your thing Brandt? Ouch!

phylp phylpwrote:

I really like that area.  Brandt, my partner and I didn't have any info on Center Divider when we did it last year, I thought it was about 10b.  This is the problem when someone infinitely stronger and better than we are rates climbs (cough, cough, Bob Gaines).  

It was a gorgeous day here in southern California yesterday!  And today too!

HA! The great thing about Mountain Project is the Democracy of ratings- everybody gets to vote! Sometimes it's hard to rate climbs on first ascents because the rock is grainy and I know it'll get easier with more ascents and less graininess. Center Divider- that's a good one, and fun to toprope.

Bob - It seems to have cleaned up pretty well, only a very little bit of crunchiness. By the way, I re-read the route description here on MP.com and see that it mentions moving right to a seam at the top. We tunnel-visioned straight up to the anchor, didn't even see the seam.

Lori Milaswrote:

Meanwhile I am so full of myself for Silent Scream (although definitely not a “send”... in the most unflattering way I got myself to the top and I’m taking the win).  

 

That's awesome Lori.  Enjoy it.  One of the best feelings in the world is pushing yourself to do something that inspires you.  Something at or near your limit in climbing, giving it all you've got, and finding that what you've got is everything the climb needs.

A while back I sent Carbs and Caffeine at the Gunks, onsight.  For me, the coolest climb I've ever done there.  Wow!  I literally felt like I was on happy drugs for a week afterwards.

GO

Brandt Allenwrote:

Bob - It seems to have cleaned up pretty well, only a very little bit of crunchiness. By the way, I re-read the route description here on MP.com and see that it mentions moving right to a seam at the top. We tunnel-visioned straight up to the anchor, didn't even see the seam.

Sounds like 10b if you go with the direct finish.

Bob Gaineswrote:

Center Divider- that's a good one, and fun to toprope.

I was hoping that comment would make you smile,  Bob Gaines!  In reality, I’m not one to fuss over ratings. I have always had what I call my “plus or minus 2” rule. I’m never surprised if ratings seem that much harder or easier to me. There are so many individual variables that go into things feeling harder or easier...

Lori that's a cool looking route... 

Carl, I have been waiting for a burst of poetry from you.  I thought one was on the horizon the other day (when you were listening to music and drinking... again).  It's probably not healthy to go too long without sharing a new poem.    

Brandt is right about the weather and the beauty here.  It does seem like the desert has two speeds: hot and cold.  Yesterday we were in both, the shade was very cold, the sunny areas were perfect and warm.  I have this fantasy of taking a walk up the Sentinel at the first snow... hopefully a light snow, and hopefully that's not a bad idea.  

Yesterday's climbing was, for me, hard macho stuff.  It was everything a climbing gym tries to be and I imagine Ryan would go nuts if he were here maneuvering up a vertical wall with overhangs, underclings, slopers and crimps.  I would have to do a lot of that kind of climbing to get used to it:  it was a whole new sense of instability--once again it was probably a head trip more than a upper body thing.  Chris was encouraging boldness, and quickly moving through exhausting moves.  It really helps to know the beta, and to know ahead of time where the energy has to go.  

I'm wondering what is everyone else's alternate forms of athletic pleasure?  How else to you get your exercise?

This week I've been pouring over all the classes and workshops I never had time to take before.  One positive thing from COVID is that most studios and gyms have gone virtual, and places that would never have opened their classes to the general public now do so.  The Sacramento Ballet now has live-sreamed classes every day, and even allow 'drop ins' from the public.  Better still, where these classes used to be held at 9 pm, they are now daily, 9-10 am and other daytime hours.  Climbing is hard work.  There's not much delicacy to it, nothing pink, had to give up ever having fingernails or high heels. Adding in some dance feels like a nice blend.

Lori Milaswrote:

Carl, I have been waiting for a burst of poetry from you.  I thought one was on the horizon the other day (when you were listening to music and drinking... again).  It's probably not healthy to go too long without sharing a new poem.    

No poetry from me, sorry, I'm too depressed... 

After a month top roping and then a week of no climbing and a trip to Moonarie trad climbing (only two grade 15 multi pitches, lots of hard hiking) I'm feeling 'bouldering weak'. 

I don't know if it's JUST that I've neglected bouldering for so long and I've lost finger and forearm strength (and those explosive 'power' moves common to bouldering) or if I'm just getting fucking old and weak. 

I did make progress on a few problems (about V3) to complete them but it's disturbing feeling markedly weaker at the moment. 

I wonder if I'm getting enough alcohol?

Carl Schneiderwrote:

 I'm feeling 'bouldering weak'. 

I don't know if it's JUST that I've neglected bouldering for so long and I've lost finger and forearm strength (and those explosive 'power' moves common to bouldering) or if I'm just getting fucking old and weak. 

I wonder if I'm getting enough alcohol?

If I haven’t bouldered in 5 weeks, my contact strength suffers along with my core strength.If I solely boulder for 5 weeks my endurance suffers.The good news for me is it all comes back almost  as quickly as it fades( not at the same rate as in my youth I’m 54 now). My most effective training for route climbing  is a mix of bouldering and toproping.My body still seems able to adapt itself pretty quickly based on activity. I really notice this when I take a break from climbing and do a bunch of cycling , my puny arms and chest get smaller and my calves especially get bigger in response.

Lori, I'm no poet so I'll go with the greatest song ever sung when performed by America's ambassador to the world Louis Armstrong.

I see trees of green

red roses too

I see them bloom for me and you

And I think to myself what a wonderful world

I see skies of blue

and clouds of white

the bright blessed day and the dark of night

And I think to myself what a wonderful world

the colors of the rainbow

so pretty in the sky

are also on the faces of the people going by

I see friend shaking hands

how do you do

they are really saying I love you

I hear babies cry, 

I watch them grow

they will learn much more then I'll ever know

and I think to myself

what a wonderful world

Mark Frumkinwrote:

Lori, I'm no poet so I'll go with the greatest song ever sung when performed by America's ambassador to the world Louis Armstrong.

I see trees of green

red roses too

I see them bloom for me and you

And I think to myself what a wonderful world

I see skies of blue

and clouds of white

the bright blessed day and the dark of night

And I think to myself what a wonderful world

the colors of the rainbow

so pretty in the sky

are also on the faces of the people going by

I see friend shaking hands

how do you do

they are really saying I love you

I hear babies cry, 

I watch them grow

they will learn much more then I'll ever know

and I think to myself

what a wonderful world

Beautiful song, Mark!  That brings tears to my eyes.  I feel this way more and more... Louis got it right.  And to think... young scallions have probably never heard this song, and wouldn't know how to appreciate it--but we do.  Thank you for posting this!  

How is everyone doing today?  I know one of us hurt his back again.   And news this morning that the state (Cali) is about to shut down again, with projected 85% hospital capacity.  Oh, if we can only behave and hold on a few more months.  I believe 2021 will be SO much better.  (it would be hard to be worse)

Today I am pretty excited to (hopefully) have another shot at Chalk Up Another One.  It's one of those few routes that I really wanted pictures.  At this moment it is 37 degrees outside--I believe that makes it near freezing, but on the upside, the rock will be 'the right temperature'!  As promised, we are working through the grades in a progression but it's hard to imagine ever climbing a 10c.  But I believe it will happen.  

There is a route to the left called Good To The Last Drop and from a distance it looks like a sheer wall with just a brief intermission (horizontal) at the halfway point.  I see that the FA was Mike Waugh (and McCollum and Houser).  A little digging and I see that Waugh has some history here, too.  Did anyone know him?  Stories?

As a newby at this Park this history just seems so important.  Is anyone compiling stories while the original FAs are still alive?  I would not let this history die. 

It's easy to drive into this Park, as millions do each year, and feel like this is the first time, the first exploration.  But I hear voices, laughter, and hijinks from days past when I didn't even know there was such a thing as rock climbing.  Some of these First Ascents were from 1975 and earlier.  I know Yosemite has the richer history, but this place deserves to be noted.  I understand the Park is collecting interviews and stories..  I hope they contact my boyfriend Dave Houser as well.    

 Meanwhile, unfortunately, Tony had to sit through another viewing of Free Solo yesterday because ...long story.  But this time he actually watched the whole movie.  And at the end he said "If you ever try this, I'll leave you."  He was really upset, and angry.  I assured him that I have a hard time climbing 5 feet without a rope.  But, as I was fussing with ropes and knots, particularly the bowline, I realized that at this moment if I were to head upwards with my knot skills, essentially I would be free-soloing.      

So I don't know if this is an 'over 50' thing, or my own shortcoming, but I am amazed at the amount of repetition I need to memorize and be able to use knot and anchoring skills.  This is not a one-time deal.  I'm working on it every day. (Toproping Rock Climbing For Outdoor Beginner, Bob Gaines) 

Haven't been to J Tree in 30 years, but we used to drive across the country every winter to climb there.  I've done most of the climbs you refer to Lori, brings back great memories.  Except EBGBs, lol, lead that one and happy never to have to do it again, I was scared shitless.

I'm very sorry for Mr Sox, Helen. It comes for us all.

Lori Milaswrote:

So I don't know if this is an 'over 50' thing, or my own shortcoming, but I am amazed at the amount of repetition I need to memorize and be able to use knot and anchoring skills.  This is not a one-time deal.  I'm working on it every day. (Toproping Rock Climbing For Outdoor Beginner, Bob Gaines)

Knots are always a fun pass time.  And don't feel alone when you struggle with one.  I have made several attempts at tying a Purcell Prusik without success. 

I stumbled on a movie on Amazon Prime last night that might be of interest to some of you.  Search for a show called "The Last Paradises".  The third episode is a documentary about the Dolomites, narrated by the renowned mountaineer Hans Kammerlander.  It's fun to watch, a lot of aerial footage of the most famous peaks and he gives some interesting history of various ascents.  And the somewhat stilted translation of what he's saying is kind of amusing too, e.g what the narrator calls  "the parapets", you will recognize as the Tre Cime.

My family is from that area, Alto Adige.  Our tiny village is about 30 miles from the famous town of Cortina D'Ampezzo (although it takes more than an hour to drive as the roads are small and windy). They also mention a few times the people of the region, who are called Ladin (some of whom still speak a language of the same name, it sounds kind of like a German Italian to my ears).  My heart was filled with longing, watching the show.  I miss travel to Europe so much, especially Italy.  If you go to the Dolomites, I find the Brenta Dolomites a particularly beautiful area, and the town of Madonna di Campiglio one of my favorite towns.

phylp phylpwrote:

I stumbled on a movie on Amazon Prime last night that might be of interest to some of you.  Search for a show called "The Last Paradises".  The third episode is a documentary about the Dolomites, narrated by the renowned mountaineer Hans Kammerlander.  It's fun to watch, a lot of aerial footage of the most famous peaks and he gives some interesting history of various ascents.  And the somewhat stilted translation of what he's saying is kind of amusing too, e.g what the narrator calls  "the parapets", you will recognize as the Tre Cime.

I skied with Hans Kammerlander about 20 years ago, in the Bad Shot Range in Canada.  Deep powder skiing, which was new to Hans.  He was on a circuit to promote his new book, which he autographed for some of us.  Good to have these memories in our current troubled times.