New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #11

Lori Milaswrote: How's everyone's fitness right now?  I'm just curious who all has been out on some type of rock and taken it for a spin and if so, how are you feeling about it?  Did you stay strong during COVID, or did you discover that you lost some ground?

Got out once last week.  First time climbing anywhere, indoors or out, since the first week of march.  I did not notice a lot of strength loss, but I was in no fall mode so climbing well below limits.  Also, I still have a jacked up finger so that is probably more limiting.  Finally, I went from 153 to 140 pounds over those three months, so that weight loss probably offset a lot of strength loss.  Mental aspect was OK after a couple climbs, but again I was in no fall mode, so on stuff I knew pretty well. I am sure if I went to to the gym and my finger would let me try to climb the usual grades, I'd notice some distinct loss in overall strength and duration.  I actually took the time off as a major plus. We cooked every meal we ate fir almost 3 months, thus the weight loss.  It gave 3 bad fingers time to heal and now 2 are back to OK and 1 is at least much better. Also, it's nice to rest the body a bit.  I have other outdoor pursuits that I was able to do such as biking, kayaking, and fly fishing so was never going stir crazy. 

Finger strength is good (hangboarding), core is good (yoga and circuit training), aerobic endurance is good (running and biking), mental game is suspect!

Last time I climbed outdoors my mental game was also suspect. Practice makes perfect. No practice, well...

Lori, were you using foot jams, too, or trying to do it with only hands in the crack and feet out on the holds or slab? I find on cracks that if I'm barndooring a bit it's usually because my hand-foot sequencing is a little funky and throwing off the weighting and balance of things. 

Andrew Ricewrote: Last time I climbed outdoors my mental game was also suspect. Practice makes perfect. No practice, well...

Lori, were you using foot jams, too, or trying to do it with only hands in the crack and feet out on the holds or slab? I find on cracks that if I'm barndooring a bit it's usually because my hand-foot sequencing is a little funky and throwing off the weighting and balance of things. 

I never got a groove on today. Never really got situated in that crack.  Judging from the muscles that already ache I would say my whole upper body is not ready for Prime Time.     All that work in the climbing gym probably was really important... will have to find substitute in local regular gym. 

Lori Milaswrote:

I never got a groove on today. Never really got situated in that crack.  Judging from the muscles that already ache I would say my whole upper body is not ready for Prime Time.     All that work in the climbing gym probably was really important... will have to find substitute in local regular gym. 

Hi...... Never stopped climbing, I went 8 weekends in a row! Only ran into the same 4 people. The new roots must get done. Fitness smitness, my issue is my back- some days it lets me climb some days- no way!!! Go on home boy!!!
So Lori I must ask: What climbs did you do before tying that death climb??? I mean that day?

Carl- that’s a cool looking climb! If you end up back on the ground at the other end, you could go right to left or left to right! Two different Climbs.
If you ever get out this way there is a climb in TM named “On The Lamb” - a 3 pitch traverse.
And in Josh there is one that has a hole, like in that photo, named “Deep Throat” ..... you run and jump to it, then wiggle through and standup and climb to the top. Makes for good laughs because of the awkward positions people get into.

Have fun all.

edit to add:   mountainproject.com/route/1…

It's funny, we all have the same issues, bad backs, gaining weight, self doubt.
I retained most of my strength as I climbed at least once a week TRing outside.
Back at the bouldering club 2 to 3 times a week now with some indoor TRing as well. Did OK with the indoor TRing, 5.10d (21ish) and tried a few 5.11b (22 ish).

Trying to keep my weight down to below 64 kilos (141) but it's winter and I'm a beer swilling Doritos munching pig.

Feeling unpsyched and full of The Malaise.

Awaiting the delivery of some new climbing trousers which may bring back the mojo.

It's all about the fashion, baby.

Not really feeling unfit, but like you, Carl, I'm unpsyched. Cognitive dissonance.

dragonswrote: Not really feeling unfit, but like you, Carl, I'm unpsyched. Cognitive dissonance.

I didn't expect this to be common among us.  I'm wondering what's behind it?  (the feeling unpsyched and mentally blah...)

Lori Milaswrote:

I didn't expect this to be common among us.  I'm wondering what's behind it?  (the feeling unpsyched and mentally blah...)

My guess is that it is linked to stress.  The pandemic, political and racial turmoil, lack of face to face social contact resulting in too much internet time learning of the latest upsetting news.  I have two daughter in laws who are nurses, a first responder grandson, two gig workers in the extended family who are in difficult financial times, friends in Mexico who are in danger, plenty of stress in my personal life.  

My remedy is lots of exercise, not worrying about COVID-19 exposure when I'm outside climbing with friends.

Lori Milaswrote:

I didn't expect this to be common among us.  I'm wondering what's behind it?  (the feeling unpsyched and mentally blah...)

What Bob said.

Also, I’m a person who doesn’t do well with uncertainty - I like to plan. Fall semester is approaching (I’m a professor) and the anxiety around that is unreal. Even if we plan in detail, it’s likely things will change again. Exercise, being outside as much as possible, trying to let things go and not worry about things I can’t control. But yes, it’s not great for the overall stoke. 

I don't worry about anything cause I know nothing is going to be OK.

I do get depressed. It's my inheritance from my mom. The only thing that can get me depressed is how horrible humans are to all living things.
I don't worry about what will happen to me. What will happen will happen & I will deal with it or not!

Geez. A lot of responses to the lack of psych.  I have been really feeling it, too.  Seems like we were innocent babes just a few short months ago.  I would climb in a packed gym and never did the thought cross my mind that I could get very sick and/or die from it.  

Erika... I’m so sorry you have to also worry about your job.  These are heavy loads to carry around.  :(

I have also been wondering about endorphins. We are a pretty active group. I was out for vigorous workout at least twice a week on top of whatever else I was doing when it all abruptly stopped.  I’ve had two friends who were runners who had to stop running because of injuries.  Both became severely depressed, one took her own life.  There are chemical changes that happen with inactivity. Active bodies were not meant to just shut down. 

Carl and Lori

Jean and I went out this morning to try a large overhanging made up climb. We usually do not get depressed or un-psych. Today is our 43 anniversary. We know that we are not in the best shape, but we are trying to get back into shape. We have been doing like Carl, some easier TRing to build up the strength and endurance. We try do laps on these easier climbs. Since it is just Jean and I climbing, we can easily get pumped. No real rest between the 2 of us. We are now slowly building up that strength an endurance. It will take another month or two before we can feel really good about our climbing.

We set up 3 climbs. One is very overhanging, the other is slightly overhanging and the 3rd is pretty much straight up. The one that is pretty much straight up is rated 5.7. It is the hardest 5.7 (except for off-widths) that i have done. All of these climbs are about 25 feet tall.

5.7 small holds until about 1/3 to the top and then finger jams. After looking at the photo below, I see that is every so slightly overhanging.

Picture of the 3 climbs. Middle climb is also a 5.7. Looking at the blue rope on the left, we both made it almost to the large roof on the left side of the photo. Jean believes that she can make it to the anchor. You start on the right side over the 1st small overhang and then work you way up left. Once you start to get close to the 2nd large overhang you head right on small holds and your body is pretty much parallel to the ground. I did not see any holds that I could onto to pull this roof. Remember, that Jean can hold onto 2 day old bird shit and I can not. We both got a good pump trying it. It is now a project for us to work on.

You can see have far the rope is away from the start of the climb.


John

That's some nice looking rock, John!

Bill and I went for a repeat up our 10 pitch route, this morning. We got up a little earlier, so it wasn't as hot, and we remembered to bring water this time. It was much more pleasant!

Looking down the last, easy pitch. We're also lucky to have some pretty nice rock nearby, and the weather has been extremely cooperative - no rain for weeks.

We've probably all got different reasons for our lack of psyche, but we can commiserate. For me: I had plans to improve at climbing this year. I wanted to do more climbing, and have more fun with it. Last year, I was hampered by a back injury. I'm not 100%, but I'm doing pretty well. Instead, I've got a knee thing going on - rockovers on my right knee are a problem. But even with that, I can mostly climb what I could previously. I was coming off the winter gym season feeling pretty strong.

We'd planned to do a short road trip to some climbing areas we'd never visited before. Those plans were dashed. We'd planned to hire a guide for a day or two to coach us on some harder local routes. Those plans are out the window. I was also hoping to look for more local partners, since Bill's less interested in climbing these days. But that's out the window, too. I'm not excited about meeting and climbing with strangers during a pandemic.

Bill is more concerned about COVID than I am. But, I'm concerned too. I'm wondering when we're going to feel like it's okay to take a trip again. I'm wondering when/if I'll see my mom (who has COVID) and my aunt and Bill's parents again. Yeah, and the state of the country/world is getting us both down. To quote Mark: "The only thing that can get me depressed is how horrible humans are to all living things." Well, that's just one of the things that can get me depressed, but it's a biggie.

All things considered, we don't have anything to complain about. But the psyche is just gone.

Lori Milaswrote: Erika... I’m so sorry you have to also worry about your job.  These are heavy loads to carry around.  :(

I have also been wondering about endorphins.

I think it's the low level (or high level?) stress around the uncertainty, the pandemic, the economy, the distancing, politics, social and racial justice issues, etc.... 

I actually am very grateful - while I don't have a huge amount of psyche for climbing right now, I've been getting out pretty regularly the last month. I am healthy. My family is healthy. I am fortunate that I have a job - so many have been furloughed or laid off. I also have quite a lot of autonomy and agency in how I do my job (for example I'm currently on a road trip to visit family back East, and I've been able to work every day remotely).

Earlier this week I had a pretty big meltdown - just wanting everything to be 'back to normal'. It struck me that almost every human being on the planet is probably feeling some variation of that right now. At home, my life was changed but not drastically. Traveling across the country for some reason made things a whole lot more 'real' for me - seeing the differences between states in mask-wearing vs not etc. It's hard to explain.

And endorphins yes - I need my daily dose. Just returned from a 7 mile trail run in the heat, humidity and gorgeous foliage. Enough to make me forget about the news for a little while at least.

Stay well and safe everybody.  

dragonswrote: That's some nice looking rock, John!

Bill and I went for a repeat up our 10 pitch route, this morning. We got up a little earlier, so it wasn't as hot, and we remembered to bring water this time. It was much more pleasant!

Looking down the last, easy pitch. We're also lucky to have some pretty nice rock nearby, and the weather has been extremely cooperative - no rain for weeks.

We've probably all got different reasons for our lack of psyche, but we can commiserate. For me: I had plans to improve at climbing this year. I wanted to do more climbing, and have more fun with it. Last year, I was hampered by a back injury. I'm not 100%, but I'm doing pretty well. Instead, I've got a knee thing going on - rockovers on my right knee are a problem. But even with that, I can mostly climb what I could previously. I was coming off the winter gym season feeling pretty strong.

We'd planned to do a short road trip to some climbing areas we'd never visited before. Those plans were dashed. We'd planned to hire a guide for a day or two to coach us on some harder local routes. Those plans are out the window. I was also hoping to look for more local partners, since Bill's less interested in climbing these days. But that's out the window, too. I'm not excited about meeting and climbing with strangers during a pandemic.

Bill is more concerned about COVID than I am. But, I'm concerned too. I'm wondering when we're going to feel like it's okay to take a trip again. I'm wondering when/if I'll see my mom (who has COVID) and my aunt and Bill's parents again. Yeah, and the state of the country/world is getting us both down. To quote Mark: "The only thing that can get me depressed is how horrible humans are to all living things." Well, that's just one of the things that can get me depressed, but it's a biggie.

All things considered, we don't have anything to complain about. But the psyche is just gone.

Dragons - that looks amazing. If I could only do one type of climbing it would be long multi-pitch routes. I'm envious. 

Hang in there - and I hope your mom has a smooth recovery. Will send positive thoughts your way.

Erika

All- keep your chin up. I suggest getting out, not watching TV (except for old movies), talk with your friends, do something you enjoy.                          
And keep your powder dry. 

Lori Milaswrote: ... I’ve had two friends who were runners who had to stop running because of injuries.  Both became severely depressed, one took her own life.

So sorry about that Lori. It's so hard to know when people are in that state, and how to help them, if it's even possible.

ErikaNWwrote:

Dragons - that looks amazing. If I could only do one type of climbing it would be long multi-pitch routes. I'm envious. 

Hang in there - and I hope your mom has a smooth recovery. Will send positive thoughts your way.

Erika

Erika, Isn't there a ton of multi-pitch in CO? CO is one of the places Bill and I would like to move if we could afford it.

So far, my mom has been asymptomatic. Knock on wood, hopefully it remains that way... She already has enough to deal with in other departments. There are others in her nursing home who have not been so lucky. You're basically sitting in a tin can inhaling everyone's germs there.

Guy Keeseewrote: All- keep your chin up. I suggest getting out, not watching TV (except for old movies), talk with your friends, do something you enjoy.                          
And keep your powder dry.

Guy, I find old movies quite depressing lol   But the latest poop thread is making me ROTFL so I guess I'm 12.