Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Bachar, Tobin Sorenson, Bill Antel & Craig Parsley, 1975
Page Views: 3,266 total · 18/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

There seems to be two different ways to do this unique route - the first way involves coming out of the hole from inside the rock and then worming into position to tackle the short wide section of crack above. The second method is to grab the bottom of the hole (it's possible to sling the hole for pro), mantle up and then reach into the crack to establish yourself. Once in the wide crack above (4" pro is helpful) a few offwidth moves give way to easier climbing as the angle kicks back on the way to the top.

Short and engaging, this is one of a handful of routes at Joshua Tree that offers totally unique movement not typically found on other climbs of the area. Two stars out of five.

Location

High atop the Mounds formation, on a blocky section dubbed the "Porno Block", is where you'll find this short, southwest-facing route. Approach via slabs from the right (southeast) to reach a spacious ledge system which also accesses the routes Caligula and Behind the Green Door. Keep walking left to the base of an obvious widening crack above a distinct hole in the rock.

Protection

pro to 4"

Photos