Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mounds

Behind the Green Door S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Caligula T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deep Throat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eff Eight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manzanita Mangle TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Bachar, Tobin Sorenson, Bill Antel & Craig Parsley, 1975
Page Views: 2,609 total, 17/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

There seems to be two different ways to do this unique route - the first way involves coming out of the hole from inside the rock and then worming into position to tackle the short wide section of crack above. The second method is to grab the bottom of the hole (it's possible to sling the hole for pro), mantle up and then reach into the crack to establish yourself. Once in the wide crack above (4" pro is helpful) a few offwidth moves give way to easier climbing as the angle kicks back on the way to the top.

Short and engaging, this is one of a handful of routes at Joshua Tree that offers totally unique movement not typically found on other climbs of the area. Two stars out of five.

Location

High atop the Mounds formation, on a blocky section dubbed the "Porno Block", is where you'll find this short, southwest-facing route. Approach via slabs from the right (southeast) to reach a spacious ledge system which also accesses the routes Caligula and Behind the Green Door. Keep walking left to the base of an obvious widening crack above a distinct hole in the rock.

Protection

pro to 4"

Photos

polloloco
Downey, CA
 
polloloco   Downey, CA
 
Careful with the last large block just before getting down to the ledge with the rap anchor. Stay far left even though the step down to the white/dark mottled patina is more insecure and angled.

You don't realize it teeter-totters while you are on it. My friend pointed it out to me, and I watched that thing see-saw at least 2 inches back and forth as another friend stepped on it. Very spooky. He wasn't very far from the fulcrum either. Oct 23, 2017
Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ian McEleney   Mammoth Lakes, CA
I've done this a third way. Climb the crack left of the hole through the roof, using the hole to get established on the face. However it's done, a fun little route. Mar 3, 2011
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Per Craig Parsley via email:

"You note that legend has it that Tobin named the route Deep Throat. This is fact. He did so upon exiting the hole in the face, crying out, "I think we should call this Deep Throat." I was on the first with he and others. May he RIP.

Another fascinating factoid about Tobin is that whenever he was scared he would sing the Cat Stevens song, "Miles From Nowhere." Feb 6, 2010
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
According to IMDB, "Deep Throat", the 1972 release starring Linda Lovelace was "possibly the most culturally influential porn film ever made".

Legend has it that Tobin Sorenson named the route, which was unusual given his "squeaky clean personality". Nov 11, 2007