What does your Woody look like??? 2.0

Seth Bleazard wrote: Thanks for all the advice I've been given over the years. Here she is, months in the making:

Picture of the first time you hit the light with your head....

Doug,
Amazing work that wall looks fantastic!  Congratulations we all know how much work it is to build one of these, they take way longer than expected.

Tavis Ricksecker wrote: Current set. Coming down in April for a new set. It's a daunting task that takes well a month or so but it's been up almost two years and its stating to feel a bit stale. Still a few problems on this one I never sent (shrug)

i like this one.....

EFS wrote:

t nuts only hammer in so far......when he puts holds on them, they will pull in the rest of the way. you always have to be careful first time you use a hole so you dont knock the t nut out. 

i just looked, i agree, few do look a bit far out......

Yep, I learned a lot about t-nut placement and hold setting technique in the first few days. 

As long as you carefully get the bolt to thread properly, as the bolt tightens it pulls the t-nut farther into the wall. My workflow is fingers-->drill-->hex wrench.

But you have to fully crank down the hold with a long hex wrench: if you spin a hold before the t-nut is fully seated you can bend the prongs and ruin the t-nut. So far that's only happened a few times and I have spare t-nuts and the back of the wall is accessible. But I'm waiting to put more permanent roofing on the back until I'm confident I've found all the spinners.

First attempt at a hangboard.

Hello fellow climbers
I am planing a projecting trip about a hour drive away from me in the winter. Sadly i think that the easier warm-up-able routes may be soaked or covered in snow. So I was wondering if it is safe or smart to warm-up on my hang-board at home and then drive an hour to climb some of my projects. And I do not have a portable hang board. Basically I want to know how long i can rest in between warm up and climbing. Will i be fresh and ready? Is this a good solution? And any other tips? Thank You.

Cyrus Gaunt wrote: Hello fellow climbers
I am planing a projecting trip about a hour drive away from me in the winter. Sadly i think that the easier warm-up-able routes may be soaked or covered in snow. So I was wondering if it is safe or smart to warm-up on my hang-board at home and then drive an hour to climb some of my projects. And I do not have a portable hang board. Basically I want to know how long i can rest in between warm up and climbing. Will i be fresh and ready? Is this a good solution? And any other tips? Thank You.

Pretty off topic, but... 

If it were me, I would be fully cooled down after an hour. I would try to do some warm up work at the the crag. Maybe find a tree branch (or the starting holds of your route?) and do some low rep sets of pull-ups? 

Ted Pinson wrote:

T-nut density seems a bit inconsistent...

I’ve been thinking about a home wall in my garage for a long time. Finally spurred by the prospect of long-term isolation—and wanting to keep my sanity.
​
I’m excited to get this wall set!

Jesse Saldana wrote: I’ve been thinking about a home wall in my garage for a long time. Finally spurred by the prospect of long-term isolation—and wanting to keep my sanity.

I’m excited to get this wall set!

That looks like a great size and angle to keep you busy.

Full isolation gym and wall setup. Built this months back out of the guts from a previous wall. I gave up on Trig finishing the corner and just haven’t bothered to finish it....

Right wall is 7.5 ft wide at 15 degrees. Left wall is about 6 at the top, 45 degrees to 15 at the transition. 9’ tall overall. 

Nkane 1 wrote:

Winch setup and one of the lower chain anchors (the aluminum locking carabiner has subsequently been swapped out for steel and a quicklink added for better maneuverability): 

The chains redirect through beefy shackles at the top of the uprights so that you can adjust the angle without climbing up. This is one aspect that I might consider changing: pulling the chain through the shackle is pretty noisy and annoying.

Nkane were you able to come up with a solution to the noisy chain issue? Has someone come up with a chain redirect system they were happy with? I was thinking of running each chain over a short length of pipe anchored to the support beam for the wall. Pipe seems like it would run fairly smoothly but is it strong enough to handle the load of the Tension Board? I have some 3/4" black iron pipe that seems pretty beefy, and I could keep the span of the pipe pretty short, 2" of unsupported pipe between anchor points seems plenty for the chain to run over...

Optimistic wrote: Nkane were you able to come up with a solution to the noisy chain issue? Has someone come up with a chain redirect system they were happy with? I was thinking of running each chain over a short length of pipe anchored to the support beam for the wall. Pipe seems like it would run fairly smoothly but is it strong enough to handle the load of the Tension Board? I have some 3/4" black iron pipe that seems pretty beefy, and I could keep the span of the pipe pretty short, 2" of unsupported pipe between anchor points seems plenty for the chain to run over...

Nope, but I've just been leaving the wall at 40* and trying to get strong. As long as we can't sport climb, we should all be focusing on those long-term strength gains that are built through limit bouldering and hangboarding, right? If I ever get a trip on the calendar, maybe then I'll start adjusting it back to 25* more often to work on endurance more easily.

Plus, with Shelter-in-Place, no one is coming over and asking me to make it easier!

To actually answer your question, I don't think the noisy chain thing is a huge deal. The system is not particularly elegant but it's not like you can hear it from a mile away (though I try not to adjust it after 10 as it's not far from a neighbor's window). If you can figure out a way to rig the pipe it might be marginally better. But the chain redirect point is a misison-critical connection and it takes a ton of force, maybe the most force of any single component in the system. So make sure it's beefy. I'm interested to see what you come up with!

Nkane 1 wrote:

Nope, but I've just been leaving the wall at 40* and trying to get strong. As long as we can't sport climb, we should all be focusing on those long-term strength gains that are built through limit bouldering and hangboarding, right? If I ever get a trip on the calendar, maybe then I'll start adjusting it back to 25* more often to work on endurance more easily.

Plus, with Shelter-in-Place, no one is coming over and asking me to make it easier!

To actually answer your question, I don't think the noisy chain thing is a huge deal. The system is not particularly elegant but it's not like you can hear it from a mile away (though I try not to adjust it after 10 as it's not far from a neighbor's window). If you can figure out a way to rig the pipe it might be marginally better. But the chain redirect point is a misison-critical connection and it takes a ton of force, maybe the most force of any single component in the system. So make sure it's beefy. I'm interested to see what you come up with!

Thanks, I'll keep you posted! 

I use mine at 10 degrees to warm up and for the kids to play on, and it's a snap with the electric hoist, so I adjust mine quite often. 

I definitely will make the chain setup beefy (the whole thing is an exercise in overengineering) but I'll only be easing the hoist enough to load the chain (probably what you do too) so that will be a good backup (and the winch is also backed up). 

Optimistic wrote:

Pretty off topic, but... 

If it were me, I would be fully cooled down after an hour. I would try to do some warm up work at the the crag. Maybe find a tree branch (or the starting holds of your route?) and do some low rep sets of pull-ups? 

You could be ready after an hour, or you could need to warm back up again.  This is very personallized, but you should figure it out soon after going out I would think.  At the least hanging the draws by going bolt to bolt is usually a pretty good warmup.

(my wife is going to touch up the rough spots and edge the ceiling and other walls for me.)

Not our actual woody, but I finally painted the wall in our garage room that we are finishing so that we can move our tiny woody sections out of our living space where they currently are, and into it(and then expand it.) I’ll post some more photos after I finish the flooring and move the first couple sections into it. 
There will be two blank walls for my drums and music gear, and the other two opposing walls will be climbing area. The ceilings 10’ tall so we will have a decent little strength training area. But nothing too crazy. 

Currently debating making the second wall adjustable from slab to overhanging to save space. The main wall is going to be roughly 45° 12’ of climbing with a kicker at the bottom and 8ish feet wide, with a second weird section by the door that’s more like 16°(To allow your to enter the room underneath it)with a bit of a stemy/chimney are for the entrance of the room. Then the next wall was going to be vertical or slab to save space, but i think it’s too small of an area to bother setting slab problems, and it seems like maybe adjustable is the way to go? I forgot the exact dimensions of that side, somewhere between 6-9’ wide and 10’ to the ceiling.. 
Heres a crappy top view sketch of my rough plan. The 16° wall and vertical crack are already built. They just need to be moved into the space after I finish(hopefully by tomorrow) putting down flooring on the concrete. Here’s the (left)two sections that are already built in our living space. I posted them here a while ago. 

Finished the painting yesterday and flooring today, and moved in the first section of our rockwall. Need to update/adjust the crack a little and move it in next. Then start construction on the main 45° overhang to the left of this photo.

randy baum wrote: here's our home wall.  we call it the A.  30ft wide by 12ft tall; 45 degrees to 40 degrees.  1,700 holds.  it's a mix of new-school brands like flat hold and kilter with hard-to-find classics from brands like stone age and pusher.  the possibilities for problems are endless.  #yousucktryharder

Just saying, this photo looks very photoshopped, with very distinct white outlines around all the holds.

My 4 meter high wall built in the spiral staircase of our home.

Great for ARC training and for the kids to climb on.