New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #9

Lori Milas wrote:

Good lord. Can you explain what I’m looking at here Nick? Beautiful...

Ice climbing! Multipitch, and a yummy looking one too, IMHO!! Yeah, I'm one of the crazy ones. 

Wonderful photos, too, especially when Nick is involved!

Might get to climb rock tomorrow, partner and I are hoping it's not too wet.

Best, Helen

Oldtradguy wrote: Bud

I found 2 old pictures of us doing Johnny Vegas in Red Rocks. This was back in December and it was cold when the clouds came over.

Bud leading 1st pitch.

Bud cleaning 2nd pitch.

John

Johnny Vegas is a blast, and Bud is the Man!

Very bummed about my shoulder impingement. Not climbing at all until I get better. Instead I'm scoping out new route possibilities. Visiting the locations of possible future activity. 

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain wrote:
In 52 years of climbing I can count on one hand the times I have climbed in a climbing gym.

Not so fast, Dwain!  We're about to be neighbors, and there's a cute little climbing gym down the road.  I will need a partner.  Tag you're it!    

cassondra l wrote: Very bummed about my shoulder impingement. Not climbing at all until I get better. Instead I'm scoping out new route possibilities. Visiting the locations of possible future activity. 

Cassondra, how bad is it?  So sorry to hear this, an impinged shoulder sure stands up and lets you know it's there, doesn't it!  it can feel like you're sidelined forever.  Mine is healing, acts up after hard days at the gym, but it's a reminder to stay with the physical therapy.  Very best to you... 

cassondra l wrote: Very bummed about my shoulder impingement. Not climbing at all until I get better. Instead I'm scoping out new route possibilities. Visiting the locations of possible future activity. 

Oooo! Looks fun! Sorry about having to be patient. 

Best, Helen

It's strange that I will ruminate more on an indoor climbing route than ever on an outdoor one.  Each day brings new challenges, and usually some defeats.  I think about it later... what do I need to do to get on top of this or that route?  What muscles, strength, technique?  

Yesterday I just hung on this roof.... trying to put together the ooomph to muscle up and over the edge.  I could see it.  I could feel it.  It was RIGHT THERE... and I just couldn't do it.  So... what would it take? More core strength. Pull strength?  Better fingers?  That next pink hold was just INCHES away... argh!

The problem with these climbing problems is that energy is so limited.  You can't hang there forever wondering.   This was a nearly horizontal roof... 

Lori Milas wrote:

Not so fast, Dwain!  We're about to be neighbors, and there's a cute little climbing gym down the road.  I will need a partner.  Tag you're it!    

So are outdoor climbing areas. In the Apple Valley area there are hundreds of climbs within a 30 mile radius.
Some as close as 5 miles.

Edit: Just had  my Post op MRI for back surgery yesterday for my Back surgery scheduled in Mid Feb.
Next step is blood work, ekg and chest x-ray from Primary care Dr required before surgery.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain wrote: So are outdoor climbing areas. In the Apple Valley area there are hundreds of climbs within a 30 mile radius.
Some as close as 5 miles.

Edit: Just had  my Post op MRI for back surgery yesterday for my Back surgery scheduled in Mid Feb.
Next step is blood work, ekg and chest x-ray from Primary care Dr required before surgery.

Good for you, Dwain.  Go in strong, you'll come out even stronger.  We'll all send love...   

It's strange that I will ruminate more on an indoor climbing route than ever on an outdoor one.  Each day brings new challenges, and usually some defeats.  I think about it later... what do I need to do to get on top of this or that route?  What muscles, strength, technique?  

Lori it's cause you don't have the opportunity to get on outside routes  ATM;  as soon as you do you will switch gears to thinking about Outdoor routes.  Plus you will be stronger having trained all this time in the gym when you get back on the rocks.

Señor Arroz wrote:

The next moves are to stem your feet up left, right, left, right using the two holds at your knees and the two above them.

Shhhhhh!!! Don't spray unless she asks.

cassondra l wrote: Very bummed about my shoulder impingement. Not climbing at all until I get better. Instead I'm scoping out new route possibilities. Visiting the locations of possible future activity. 

Sorry to hear about your shoulder.  Mine's been pretty cranky lately too.  I hope all is well with you.

dragons wrote: Shhhhhh!!! Don't spray unless she asks.

Lori and I have a dialogue going outside this forum. I know she likes beta.

Lon Harter wrote:
Lori it's cause you don't have the opportunity to get on outside routes  ATM;  as soon as you do you will switch gears to thinking about Outdoor routes.  Plus you will be stronger having trained all this time in the gym when you get back on the rocks.

Lon, thank you for just the right words. I’ve been mooning around and moping... starting to say goodbye to the things I love here but forgetting what I’m going to. You’re right, it’s been awhile since I’ve been outdoors and it’s easy to forget that stoke.  

I’ve been thinking about these indoor routes, too. We’re right at that point now where injuries happen... to progress further really puts heavy load on fingers and joints. 
And yet we had plans...  

Good job with the video Lori!

Here's what I think:

This photo is taken from just around here: https://youtu.be/3Z1rYvVqUo8?t=17

So it's clear, this is all JMHO:

You've moved your right foot up from hold "0". You're moving it up to the left, which means your butt and torso are going to be flagging out, dragging you away from the wall.

If I were doing this, I'd remain facing as you are, but move my right foot up to one of those two holds at "1", stepping back to the right, so I'd be stemming (I hope) against the right wall.
From there, I'd take a big step up with my left foot onto hold 3 where your left hand is in the photo. I think that would be possible for me, but depends on your flexibility. Your right hand is in a good spot, stemming off hold 4. When your left foot goes up to 3, you move your left hand to hold 5.
Next push off with your right foot from hold "1" so you're standing up tall into the corner. As your leg straightens, you should be able to move your right hand higher to brace against hold 6.
Move your right foot from hold 1 to hold 2, you have to look down and back for this, but keep your body facing left.
Now your left foot is on 3 and your right foot is on 2, your left hand is on 5 and your right hand is on 6. I think you can reach hold 7 with your left hand, so go for that.
Keep moving up like that: right foot is on the right wall holds, left foot is on the left.

This may be what Señor was saying, but I think he had a slightly different idea.

Give it a try and report back!   

dragons wrote: 
This may be what Señor was saying, but I think he had a slightly different idea.

So much for the no-spray rule, eh?

Your idea is pretty much the same as mine. Stem instead of getting all off to one side. And keep the feet moving upward. 

Carl Schneider wrote: 

Cool well done! Of course it was real, don't rob your self of the achievement, esp if you judge it to be harder than the one a few weeks ago...

Thanks, man!

Señor Arroz wrote:So much for the no-spray rule, eh?

Your idea is pretty much the same as mine. Stem instead of getting all off to one side. And keep the feet moving upward.

Shame on us both! It's just hard to resist. I couldn't tell if Lori was really asking for suggestions, or was hoping to figure it out herself....

Lori Milas wrote: It's strange that I will ruminate more on an indoor climbing route than ever on an outdoor one.  Each day brings new challenges, and usually some defeats.  I think about it later... what do I need to do to get on top of this or that route?  What muscles, strength, technique?  

Yesterday I just hung on this roof.... trying to put together the ooomph to muscle up and over the edge.  I could see it.  I could feel it.  It was RIGHT THERE... and I just couldn't do it.  So... what would it take? More core strength. Pull strength?  Better fingers?  That next pink hold was just INCHES away... argh!

The problem with these climbing problems is that energy is so limited.  You can't hang there forever wondering.   This was a nearly horizontal roof...

That 'just' looks like pulling power to me.  Sometimes one needs to just pull through.  Do you do chin ups at all?  How many can you do?

I'm probably completely wrong but to me it looks like R foot where your L is, R hand where your L is, R hip to the wall, pull hard with the R hand, L hand to the big hold. Being square on to the wall like you are and pulling up might be harder than being side on... But I'm probs wrong. 

Carl Schneider wrote:

That 'just' looks like pulling power to me.  Sometimes one needs to just pull through.  Do you do chin ups at all?  How many can you do?

I'm probably completely wrong but to me it looks like R foot where your L is, R hand where your L is, R hip to the wall, pull hard with the R hand, L hand to the big hold. Being square on to the wall like you are and pulling up might be harder than being side on... But I'm probs wrong. 

Don't be so fast to dismiss your take on it, Carl!  Here's how Ryan climbed it ( as though it were a piece of sidewalk, without breaking a sweat... )

How's everyone doing, and is anyone climbing, or getting ready to climb?  Are we still hibernating?  More stories, and more pictures, please! 

I've been waiting for some kind of fresh inspiration to flow in, as January drags on.  I saw Bob Gaines' recent FB post of his new AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course (with Meg Kee here) and that was the fresh inspiration I needed.  It's just hard to learn something as complicated as anchoring and trad climbing in snippets every 3-4 months.  I felt I needed full immersion for awhile so now that's gonna happen.  "I'll have what she's having..."