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New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #9

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rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526
Buck Rogers · · Germany · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 205
rgold wrote: Inaugurating the next chapter with this: https://www.outdoorresearch.com/blog/article/what-its-like-to-start-climbing-in-your-60s

Rich:  Leading the way since the 1960's on the rock and on the N&ECO 50 thread!

;)

(and let's here some more stories from the "Glory Days" Rich.  I know that you have a ton and I'd love to hear them!)
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Basic glory days story template:  We did stupid shit.  We didn't die.  So we did more stupid shit..

ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 145

Fantastic article! Thanks for sharing Rich!

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 622
Buck Rogers wrote:

Rich:  Leading the way since the 1960's on the rock and on the N&ECO 50 thread!

You know you're in trouble when you get assigned an acronym.  Which becomes a domain.   A cult.  A PAC (political Action Committee).  Watch-listed by the FBI.  Et cetera.

Lori Milas · · Rocklin, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190

​Perhaps we can introduce a new political topic to discuss: 

crewdog lm · · Nevada · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 25
Lori Milas wrote: Perhaps we can introduce a new political topic to discuss:

I recall scoffing at crack mitts years ago. Functionally, tape is no less "aid" than little fairy crack mitts LOL.  

Lon Harter · · Reno · Joined May 2018 · Points: 350

I must admit I do like to tape my hands and I will reuse them over and over.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 106

That sucks that the Mods keep closing the over 50 thread. at a thousand posts.
This is one thread that should be kept open permanently.

Elisa R · · SLC, UT · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

Loved that article, Rich!

One of my favorite quotes from the interview:

“You can climb for fun and exercise by choosing routes that are fun but do not put undue strain on your body. You can be a grade-chaser, climbing successively harder routes to find your limit, and then trying to raise it. You can compete against yourself to get better, or you can compete against other people. You can choose to emphasize beautiful technique over sheer power, or you can see how much power you can develop and how strong you can make your climbing muscles. Your goals can be whatever you decide, and no one will fault you for pursuing them.”
crewdog lm · · Nevada · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 25

Editorial: I noted with surprise, some comments in installment #8 that really went to "number chasing." And this strikes me as an ill-fated practice. Guilty. I've done it and I suspect anybody who's ever been really committed to climbing has done it too - focusing on a grade, or problem, or route which while out of reach, evolves to the level of critical... "I must."  Hindsight at 53 (and 70% VA) reminds me: Number chasing is the wrong answer. It's climbing for the one-dimensional and impatient - not a good look at our age. Focusing on a number or even on a certain route to the point of all-importance, limits the scope of our experience and it sets us up to reinforce failure instead of success. The old hard men I learned from advised, 'raise the bar in very small increments.' This was the way of it because, in the pre-sport-climbing era, leading was actually dangerous.  But the point is still valid in our context: you can't circumvent the process. Get better through hundreds of incremental successes. Go over the wall rather than try to smash through it. Any seconds?

Buck Rogers · · Germany · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 205
crewdog lm wrote: Editorial: I noted with surprise, some comments in installment #8 that really went to "number chasing." And this strikes me as an ill-fated practice. Guilty. I've done it and I suspect anybody who's ever been really committed to climbing has done it too - focusing on a grade, or problem, or route which while out of reach, evolves to the level of critical... "I must."  Hindsight at 53 (and 70% VA) reminds me: Number chasing is the wrong answer. It's climbing for the one-dimensional and impatient - not a good look at our age. Focusing on a number or even on a certain route to the point of all-importance, limits the scope of our experience and it sets us up to reinforce failure instead of success. The old hard men I learned from advised, 'raise the bar in very small increments.' This was the way of it because, in the pre-sport-climbing era, leading was actually dangerous.  But the point is still valid in our context: you can't circumvent the process. Get better through hundreds of incremental successes. Go over the wall rather than try to smash through it. Any seconds?

Perfetto!

Reminds me of the meme someone posted a while back and that I have been reposting (and I just love SpoonBoy anyways!) all over the place!

Lori Milas · · Rocklin, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190

Maybe this is the appropriate space to opine about gratitude and age.  This may be the first time in decades that I feel a kinship, and love, and protective nurturing for the youngsters among us.  While I've struggled with societal concepts of age... of being less than, awkward, someone to make fun of... I'm finding a new place in the fold.  I think we all are.  (and it's so wonderful)

I have another new little buddy, who is an incredible climber.  Without giving away his identity or embarrassing him... this is part of something he wrote yesterday:

"It’s hard to find balance, but balance will always be the key to a healthy life, no matter what your life consists of. The past 8 months has been full throttle rock climbing. Everyday, all day, gettin after it! Witch is rad, and I feel so fortunate to have the opportunity to live this lifestyle, it’s a dream come true for me. I can say these past 8 months have been some of the best days of my life, by far. Being with people I love, moving on stone, being in nature, laughing, loving and enjoying the journey. But lately, I’m starting to feel a little unbalanced.. I should probably rest more. I should focus more on my career. I should make time in my day to just breath in silence. I should make time for the people around me. I should be more present in the moments that I’m not climbing. Life has been trying to communicate something to me, and I should listen.. I’m in a bit of a funk right now. Doing my best to be optimistic. Doing my best to stay true to the core of who I am as a person. Doing my best to remember why I’m here, doing what I’m doing. Even though sometimes I have no idea, “Who I am” and often times I have no clue why I do what I do.. But that’s probably a normal thought for a 23 year old kid lol. I’m doing my best to take what I’m feelin in this moment lightly, although it can be hard. More than anything I just want to be at peace.. Even when life throws its complexities and the funks come, how do I find peace?"

I told him I think he's right on target for being 23.  I told him I wouldn't be back in my 20's for anything in the world... those days were hard.  It's hard 'finding yourself'.  It's hard to understand balance, and health... and to know who you are destined to be.  Just be patient, follow your heart... you're doing it. 

I also sent up a prayer of thanks that we have survived those early years... we have arrived into ourselves as much as we can... and as evidenced by the incredible people on this thread, there is a ton of wisdom, grace and talent here.  It's a gift to the younger generations, which they are begging for...as they also give us the gift of youth and stoke.

I'm looking forward to climbing with some mature adults in a few weeks... but also a couple of days out with my little buddy Jeremy.  I don't know why I have taken to this kid so much... watching him climb, become one of the best climbers in the state, maybe the world.   I kept thinking, what can we possibly do together, he a 5.14 climber, me a... NOT 5.14 climber.     I once worried that I would bore him to tears and he would only go out with me grudgingly.  But he's gentle and gracious with me, has a pretty good idea of my climbing ability... while I get to celebrate him and poke at him for his climbing adventures.  And along the way, we converse.  About life, the universe, career, family, music... meaning.  It's a good fit. We all need each other. No one is less than... 



 
frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 94
crewdog lm wrote:

I recall scoffing at crack mitts years ago. Functionally, tape is no less "aid" than little fairy crack mitts LOL.  

I'm not sure about that.  I tape my hands just to protect my skin.  I believe crack glove add friction.  I could be wrong but if that's the case, I see crack gloves as a form of aid. 

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526
John Byrnes wrote:

You know you're in trouble when you get assigned an acronym.  Which becomes a domain.   A cult.  A PAC (political Action Committee).  Watch-listed by the FBI.  Et cetera.

I was thinking more along the lines of an international franchise with associated megachurch.

Lon Harter · · Reno · Joined May 2018 · Points: 350
youth and stoke
Youth sometimes ..................  I get inspired when I see someone in the 70's getting after it. (I'm not far behind).  Stoke nope sorry I get none of that from them.   That comes from within.
crewdog lm · · Nevada · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 25
Lon Harter wrote: I must admit I do like to tape my hands and I will reuse them over and over.

Agreed Lon. At my most "purist" point, I was proud to get through a JT weekend of cracks sans tape and blood-free. These days, I'll make a tape masterpiece or just use the mitts. Getting a pro-deal is further rationalization :-)

crewdog lm · · Nevada · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 25
frank minunni wrote:

I'm not sure about that.  I tape

my hands just to protect my skin.  I believe crack glove add friction.  I could be wrong but if that's the case, I see crack gloves as a form of aid. 

Agree, some of the mitts are covered in sticky rubber - hmmmm.  The OR ones I have are just padding however. Devil's advocate argument: Tape is a concession to less than perfect technique and it will add width and/or friction in some cracks e.g., greasy cupped-hands and fists. Is that not "aid"? (Bottom line I don't care. I'd even bring mitts for both of us.)
Russ Walling · · Overlord @ FishProducts · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,426

Tape has always been aid... you old dudes just forget

SeƱor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
frank minunni wrote:

I'm not sure about that.  I tape my hands just to protect my skin.  I believe crack glove add friction.  I could be wrong but if that's the case, I see crack gloves as a form of aid. 

I don't notice a difference in friction between crack gloves and tape or bare hands. I like crack gloves because I can pull them out for a single pitch of crack in the middle of a multi-pitch climb that is more mixed. Also, I'm hairy as a Sasquatch, and not ripping all that fur off my paws every time I crack climb is kinda nice.

crewdog lm · · Nevada · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 25
Russ Walling wrote: Tape has always been aid... you old dudes just forget

I just ordered 10 rolls from your site Russ. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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