Proudest Climbing Achievement of 2019?

Replaced over 70 bolts on easy/moderate sport routes. A couple of those routes I remember doing when I first started climbing and thinking the bolts had rusted severely. I've been walking by that crag on the way to harder climbing at least once a week for years and wondering just how bad those bolts had become. So in September I took a week of vacation, set up a fixed line and got to work. Now when I walk by on the way to the kinda hard crag I can look back over at the moderates and know that nobody is questioning the hardware they're clipping.

Other than that, instead of chasing the highest letter grade in a style that suits me I took on a route that was completely not my style a couple letters lower. I beat my head against the wall, got way out of my comfort zone and eventually sent it. I could of just shrugged it off and gone for the higher grade to fuel the ego, but I think this was more positive. 

Also pushed comfort zone in the "alpine" (WA pass approach is glorified cragging) for the first time in a couple seasons. 

Nick Drake wrote: Replaced over 70 bolts on easy/moderate sport routes. A couple of those routes I remember doing when I first started climbing and thinking the bolts had rusted severely. I've been walking by that crag on the way to harder climbing at least once a week for years and wondering just how bad those bolts had become. So in September I took a week of vacation, set up a fixed line and got to work. Now when I walk by on the way to the kinda hard crag I can look back over at the moderates and know that nobody is questioning the hardware they're clipping.

Other than that, instead of chasing the highest letter grade in a style that suits me I took on a route that was completely not my style a couple letters lower. I beat my head against the wall, got way out of my comfort zone and eventually sent it. I could of just shrugged it off and gone for the higher grade to fuel the ego, but I think this was more positive.

Also pushed comfort zone in the "alpine" (WA pass approach is glorified cragging) for the first time in a couple seasons. 

I’ve been really thinking a lot about this recently. There are some .11s I was projecting a while back, and on the MP page, every single comment on the routes is about how bad the bolts are, and those are all comments from like ~2005. I’m assuming the same bolts are there now because they looked like shit while I was there. Some routes have permadraws that have snapped and been replaced with peoples nylon slings. It’s a fun as hell area, super overhung and in a cool spot, but it’s kinda horrifying to climb there. 

If you don’t mind me asking, how did you end up getting in to it? I’m debating on trying to find someone to go out with me and show me everything if I pay for the hardware for a route or something. I just want to have peace of mind when I go back there instead of “how many times can I whip on this frayed sling on a cold-shut?”

Just the sheer amount of outdoor mileage I got. Climbed nearly every day for 4 months straight with partners, TR solo, free solo. Climbed in the wind rivers, city of rocks, smith rock and kalymnos. 

Finally started competently leading trad! Climbed some of my big goals including the Petit Grepon in RMNP and summited Long's Peak via Keiner's and Cable. After flashing a few sport 5.11's, I actually feel like I'm becoming a good climber. And lastly, started getting serious about ice. I am so absolutely stoked for 2020. Goals include leading multi pitch ice up to WI5, leading the Casual Route on the Diamond and sending a 5.12. 

Upgrading the anchors and replacing rivets on Roulette (oh and soloing Roulette after it had shut me down multiple times in the past)

My last minute achievement of 2019 was sending my first V6 today which I am pretty stoked about

Had many great moments in 2019 but hard to beat today. Climbed Glass Menagerie with Isa this afternoon. .  super late start. I had my headlamp set up on my helmet when I started the first lead but we were up und down just at dusk :)  Isa at the 1st belay

the top out in the cedars rapping at dusk in a snow squall :)

Tanner Green wrote:

I’ve been really thinking a lot about this recently. There are some .11s I was projecting a while back, and on the MP page, every single comment on the routes is about how bad the bolts are, and those are all comments from like ~2005. I’m assuming the same bolts are there now because they looked like shit while I was there. Some routes have permadraws that have snapped and been replaced with peoples nylon slings. It’s a fun as hell area, super overhung and in a cool spot, but it’s kinda horrifying to climb there. 

If you don’t mind me asking, how did you end up getting in to it? I’m debating on trying to find someone to go out with me and show me everything if I pay for the hardware for a route or something. I just want to have peace of mind when I go back there instead of “how many times can I whip on this frayed sling on a cold-shut?”

Sounds like a similar scenario.

I had watched videos from Gregger Man, asca, etc as well as reading on here for a bit. I bought a drill and other tools, but then started looking at the cost of hardware and realized I couldn’t afford to do it on my own. The drill and other tools sat for a few years.We have an organization called Washington Anchor Replacement Project that crowd sources donations to fund replacing hardware. Last year they ran the pilot of classes to train people on rebolting. I signed up and went through a class, while I knew the principals there were a ton of tips and tricks. Last half of the class we just installed sleeve and wedge bolts in larger rocks. After pulling a few with ease I had confidence to go work on routes. 
I put in for a grant, got the hardware and went for it. I figured out pretty fast that working in a vertical environment is a lot different than a parking lot. Bosuns chair is your best friend. A bag with wide opening and lots of pockets is your second best friend. Happy to give more tips if you want
The biggest thing for any effort is funding first. I’d check with asca and your local organization (aac when in doubt). Find out if there is any existing organization locally and go from there.

Considering the past 3 years of near continuous injury(unrelated to climbing) ... just being able to climb at all in 2019 is my number one best accomplishment. 

For the first time being involved in development of a new cliff that’s spectacular. Getting the first ascent of a beautiful and hard 100 foot sport climb up a steep golden and black wall deep in the forests of ky. 

Finally getting on Astroman after years of preparation!

Onsighting all the 5.10 pitches on the Fine Line into the Beckey route on the Elephants Perch (except the final 5.10 OW), and onsighting the Rostrum, which seemed like an impossible goal when driving into the Valley for that season.

Took a 30 footer on a #1 ballnut. Didn't die. Just mentally being able to push it while climbing above suspect gear. Never had that level of comfort before. Allowed me to try more difficult climbs this year and not get scared like I used to. 

Lost all muscle mass and almost died because of crohn's.  Regained a lot of muscle and got after it in the mountains again. 

Proudest: Leading The Fang in Vail late last season, and scratching up Great Dihedral in SUPER Scottish conditions.

Toughest: Having an AK trip cut short after being drilled in the head/hand with a rock on route, and the damage caused to a friendship when I made the call to bail off glacier a couple days later, trying to salvage what I could of the rest of my "vacation". Made the call I thought was right for the team, at the time, but it didn't pan out.

Dumbest (but I'm still stoked about it): Getting featured on justbombergear for doing a shot through an A-thread.

Funnest: Lake City Ice Fest with a spectacular group of friends, miles of laughter and casual climbing in the sun!

Catching my gym lead grade up to my gym toprope grade. Neither grade is impressive but they’re pretty much the same now so that’s something. 

Bunch of new  decently hard routes at Warning Signs this year was pretty much the best part of 2019:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/116369189/outflow-hazard
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/116516950/fish-ladder
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/116682622/business-time
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/116784038/tempus-fugit
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/116172390/days-of-future-past