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Need Alpine/ Climbing Book Recommendations

Original Post
Daniel Melnyk · · Covina · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 50

I just finished Kiss or Kill by Mark Twight. Great book but now I can’t decide what to read next.
What do you recommend?

No Everest books please. I respect myself 
Peter Regan · · Washington · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

I just finished Psychovertical by Andy Kirkpatrick and really enjoyed it. Though the main feature is his solo of the Reticent Wall, chapters alternate between that and his trips to Chamonix and Patagonia

FosterK · · Edmonton, AB · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 67

Alpine Warriors by Bernadette McDonald; and,

Even though you asked for no Everest books, Into the Silence is a must read on how the Great War influenced Mallory and his cohort to pursue Everest.

Melanie Shea · · Denver · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10

Some good mentions, echoes by Nick bullock is good.

Dallin Carey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 222

+1 for Beyond the Mountain and Art of Freedom.

Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

Both of Nick Bullock's books are excellent and highly recommended.

Any of Bernadette McDonald's work is also excellent.

Drewski Brewski · · OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
M Jarmland wrote: I read a lot of climbing books but am kind of a minimalist so decided to only keep what’s truly top notch reading experiences.

This is what has made the cut so far.

This is a great lineup!

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

A good line up but a huge omission: The Lonely Challenge/ Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage by Hermann Buhl.  

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 12,101

Here's the Boardman/Tasker Prize Winners

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Actually one Everest book worth tracking down is Four Against Everest. Downward Bound by Warren Harding is a hoot too.  

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

Annapurna by Maurice Herzog.

The White Spider by Heinrich Harrer.

Never surpassed.

Jared M · · Louisville / Boulder CO · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 141

Feeding The Rat - Al Alvarez

John Simmonds · · Fernie, BC · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

I highly recommend The Ascent of Rumdoodle, WE Bowman. It's definitely my favorite climbing book.
(There is a thread on this same topic from a couple of years ago.)

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,846

Books by John Roskelly: esp. Nanda Devi and "Final Days"

2nd "vote" for 4-Against Everest ( This is the story of the first (un-authorized) US attempt on Everest in 1962)  

2nd vote for Annapurna and White Spider (but, with Annapurna you should also read the David  Robert's book  "True Summit")  

No Picnic on Mt Kenya

Chapter 1 of Jim Wickwire's auto-bio (You'll NEVER go unroped on a glacier again ! )

5 Miles High ( 1938 American K2 Expedition)

Men Against the Clouds - Birdsall  (in 1932 4 college students sort of get stranded in China by the Depression and climb the highest then-climbed summit )

Terray's "Conquistadors of the Useless" ( Brit & US Title "Boarders of the Impossible" )

David Roberts:  Mountain of My Fear (FA of the "Harvard Route" on Mt Huntington) and "Debora, a Wilderness Narrative"

Ed Webster - Snow in the Kingdom (OK, it's an "Everest Book", but unlike all others, (except, of course, 4 Against Everest.  In fact Ed could have titled the book "4-Against Everest / Take2")

Michael Chessler once had a list of what he considered the 100 greatest climbing books, but I couldn't (easily) find it on his website.  No Picnic on Mt Kenya is in just about eveyone's top 10 for the audacity of the exploit!

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

An article about Four Against Everest that appeared in Alpinist a while back: http://www.alpinist.com/tcl/features/everest_alpinist.pdf

Even Eric Shipton was impressed by their efforts and wrote them a letter congratulating them, calling it a "magnificent achievement".

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,142
M Jarmland wrote: I read a lot of climbing books but am kind of a minimalist so decided to only keep what’s truly top notch reading experiences.

This is what has made the cut so far.

I thought The Bond was amazing. Can’t quite see, is Touching the Void in your list?

Jordan Whitley · · NC · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 240

The Ledge, by Jim Davidson is a great book about a Liberty Ridge climb on Rainier. Awesome guy too.

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,142

You can have this free if you want it.  I agree with Tut - amazing book. 

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 12,101

Everest: The West Ridge - Horbein. The greatest of American Himalayan climbs, a story which all should know.  

Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

If you read Annapurna you should read the David Roberts book True Summit about what really happened on the climb and afterwards.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 448
FosterK wrote: Even though you asked for no Everest books, Into the Silence is a must read on how the Great War influenced Mallory and his cohort to pursue Everest.

It's worth putting in another endorsement for this book.  If you're at all interested in the history, both of the mountain itself and the outside influences on that generation, it is a fantastic read.  Highly recommended.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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