What 'classic' did you hate???

Caleb S wrote: Definitely “direct route”, on the first flatiron. Way overrated.

What would you cite as a better alternative for the grade, and the area?

Forrset Pials wrote:

Agreed

Try madame gs with the Columbia first pitch makes it way more consistent. Love Madame Gs!

s.price wrote: None I would say I hate.

High Plains Drifter was a bit of a let down. But I think that is because I had built it up in my head. 

HPD has superr fun moves and I had a blast on it but thought it would take longer. But High Plains Drifter was a let down because it was so easy. (V6-)

Marc801 C wrote: In reference to Shockley's Ceiling in the Gunks

For those who have not been on the route, don't believe this. There is zero need for any hand jams on Shockley's.

I'm curious what your beta is then, without the jam.

The other way I've seen it done is the reach around the roof, which is quite long. It's doable for someone of moderate height (that's how I did it the first time I did it) but I don't think it conceivably goes at 5.6 with that beta.

Or are you just saying this as a joke on people who haven't climbed it? If so, I'll delete my comment. :D

David Kerkeslager wrote:

I'm curious what your beta is then, without the jam.

The other way I've seen it done is the reach around the roof, which is quite long. It's doable for someone of moderate height (that's how I did it the first time I did it) but I don't think it conceivably goes at 5.6 with that beta.

Or are you just saying this as a joke on people who haven't climbed it? If so, I'll delete my comment. :D

Its Gunks 5.6 if you reach around the roof. Jamming it most certainly makes it harder. Especially for a gunks climber.

Marc801 C wrote:

Yes, I mentioned as much - all whoppping 40' of it. We're talking about "classic climbs". High E is a 5.6 - you can't recommend a different start that's 5.10 and call it High E.

you can either lead to the GT on Last Will Be First or Modern Times and walk a few feet on the GT to make it sustained 5.6 and consistent for the quality (both have high quality early pitches).  The walk is only about 30ft from Modern Times and allows you to bypass slow parties on the first pitches of High E. 

Christopher Woodall wrote:

Its Gunks 5.6 if you reach around the roof. Jamming it most certainly makes it harder. Especially for a gunks climber.

As a Gunks climber who has done it both ways, I have to disagree. I did it two days ago and the jam felt pretty 5.6. The reach around when I did it felt much harder.

Maybe it's just different beta based on our body types. *shrug*

kevin deweese wrote:

What’s do you need to wire about a rap route that basically goes straight down?

Probably nothing? Havent done the Royal Arches rap. After waiting for hours to climb, I didnt want to wait hours to rap. The walk off would have been challenging for the first time in the dark, although it was relatively quick. I think it took an hour with a fair amount of taking in the views and picture taking.

Ryan Pfleger wrote:

Probably nothing? Havent done the Royal Arches rap. After waiting for hours to climb, I didnt want to wait hours to rap. The walk off would have been challenging for the first time in the dark, although it was relatively quick. I think it took an hour with a fair amount of taking in the views and picture taking.

North Dome Gulley is a bad time in the dark

kevin deweese wrote:

North Dome Gulley is a bad time in the dark

It’s not really that fun in the day either. 

Long Ranger wrote:

What would you cite as a better alternative for the grade, and the area?

North face of the maiden. 

FYI: Diedre, High Exposure and the Direct on the First Flatiron are all great.

This thread should be retitled “what are the best routes in North America?”

David Kerkeslager wrote:

As a Gunks climber who has done it both ways, I have to disagree. I did it two days ago and the jam felt pretty 5.6. The reach around when I did it felt much harder.

Maybe it's just different beta based on our body types. *shrug*

It’s all footwork David.

SethG wrote:

It’s all footwork David.

Well obviously. Isn't it always?

Don Ferris III wrote:

North face of the maiden. 

East Face of the First and N. Face of the Maiden are both, "Classic, Top Ten" routes in Roach's book. 

I would keep Direct East Face of the First as a Flatiron Classic. 12 textbook pitches a half a mile from the parking lot, en route to the summit of Green Mountain, that you can do in trail runners is pretty amazing. The history of like, a 15 year old putting it up is also kinda rad. There's a reason people have ticked it hundreds of times.

George Perkins wrote:Probably the best true mountain rock climb in Colorado that’s outside of the Park. Maybe that’s not saying much. If someone knows a better one, spray it up!

Wham Ridge is the best

I have mixed feelings about the Mountaineers route on Elephant's Perch (if that's a "classic"), and the East Ridge on Mt. Edith Cavell 

The Nose, just couldn't enjoy the climbing because of the crowds and sewer-stench. 

Whitney -Gilman on Cannon. Nothing about tgat climb was interesting to me.

kevin deweese wrote:

North Dome Gulley is a bad time in the dark

NDG in the dark is risking death.

Saitama inSD wrote: I don't hate it, but the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak has to be one of the most overrated climbs ever.  The rock is decent and the summit views are nice, but I hear so many people rave about it like it's the best thing since sliced bread.  

It's a nice climb but does not deserve the "classic" status IMO.  I can understand someone from Florida visiting for the first time getting excited but I've met a party of 3 from Los Angeles who have been to Tahquitz foaming at the mouth like they just climbed Asgard in the Baffin Islands.
Matthes Crest and Snake Dike are 2 climbs that come to mind near there and near the same grade and are much more fun and aesthetic.  

I thought the opposite. I thought Matthes  Crest was a beautiful feature but really shitty climbing. I climbed cathedral the same day and absolutely loved it.