Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

What 'classic' did you hate???


JCM · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 95
C Archibolt wrote: Hahaha! The last two comments totally prove my point. Index is a mediocre local crag with a cult following and an undeserved world class reputation. Period. 

It would be more accurate to say that it is a very good locals crag with a cult folllowing and an undeserved world class reputation.

By this, I mean that it has a specialized climbing style and a somewhat narrow grade range. It’s not the sort of place that any random traveling climber can stop there for two days and get a lot out of the area. Index takes more time and effort before it unlocks the good climbing. For this reason, it is not a world class destination for the typical traveling climber.
However, for locals willing to put in the time to adapt to its style, it offers some incredible climbs. It is a gift of a local crag for those with the ability and dedication to make use of it. Hence the cult following. 
Karl K · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 525

+62 to Durrance Route.  Wide and often awkward.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

The East Face of Whitney sure isn’t classic from a climbing perspective but is from a historical perspective.   The East Buttress is far and away a better route.  

KG · · SLC, UT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 451

North Chimney of Castleton. If you like chimney-ing through loose rock covered in bird crap then that's the route for you. 

Dylan B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 521

I despise the so-called Devil’s Lake classic “Congratulations.” At some point I was able to get a (top rope) send on this supposed 5.10b, but more often than not some stupid show-stopping move near the bottom would leave me flummoxed and frustrated. 

Calf-lete Osborne · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 7

Red River Gorge

blakeherrington · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 1,060
JCM wrote:

It would be more accurate to say that it is a very good locals crag with a cult folllowing and an undeserved world class reputation.

By this, I mean that it has a specialized climbing style and a somewhat narrow grade range. It’s not the sort of place that any random traveling climber can stop there for two days and get a lot out of the area. Index takes more time and effort before it unlocks the good climbing. For this reason, it is not a world class destination for the typical traveling climber.
However, for locals willing to put in the time to adapt to its style, it offers some incredible climbs. It is a gift of a local crag for those with the ability and dedication to make use of it. Hence the cult following. 

This seems like a great description. 


Index is deep, but is not wide.

Red Rock is wide, but is not deep. (perhaps it's deep just in the category of mid-length moderates)

If one is out of one's depth at Index, don't expect to make up for it in width.
Cron · · Kittery, ME · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 55

Thin Air @ Cathedral Ledge, NH.

Ryan Pfleger · · North Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 15

If we are going by the total experience then I've gotta agree that Royal Arches isn't really a lot of fun. It would be a fun romp if it weren't for the hordes of climbers on it, but to sit waiting for 4+ hours to get in an hour or two of climbing, most of which isn't great, didn't appeal to me. Even if you're simul climbing it seemed pretty difficult to pass. Might actually be fun to do at night sans other climbers, but I'd want to have the descent pretty wired before I did it in the dark, even with a good headlamp.

Ocalslay Onlyyay · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
Colonel Mustard wrote:

Oddly, yes I have. Yeah, it didn’t stand out that much but went quickly. The high point was my asshole partner freaking out on the way down, lol!

Is this what I think it is?!?

JCM · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 95
blakeherrington wrote:


Index is deep, but is not wide.

Great summary of what took me much longer to say.

If your interests and ability align with the narrow range of what Index offers, it is an extraordinary crag.
If your interests and/or abilities do not align with Index, you pretty much just need to find somewhere else to climb.
Tom Dursch · · Somerville, MA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10

Levitation 29 in RR. I had really high hopes and dreams. 99 quick draws later...

Doug Hutchinson · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 105
Eric Fjellanger wrote:

Regarding Outer Space, I think any multipitch 5.9 will always always be popular, and adding the striking line of the last 2 pitches gets you to insane hype status.

It took me 12+ years to really understand that cragging in Leavenworth sucks.

Ha, you figured this out about 8 years faster than me.

Besides being deeply svelte or maybe just densely thin, Index is the most temperature sensitive/specific crag that I have been to - I love it until I hate it and then fall back in love all over again in the Fall.

In case no one listed it, Devils Tower Durrance route ain't so good.
Forrest Carver · · Edgecomb, ME · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 85
Cron wrote: Thin Air @ Cathedral Ledge, NH.

Glad someone else said it! Hate to sound ungrateful but I expected a lot more exposure with a name like thin air. Good yes, classic no.

Garrett R. · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 40

Anyone said Edge of Time at Jurassic Park yet? Gets three and a half stars on here, I thought it was the worst route of the day, at a crag of mediocre, forgettable climbing.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535
Tom Dursch wrote: Levitation 29 in RR. I had really high hopes and dreams. 99 quick draws later...

That's what makes it a classic. But yes, if you slog up there thinking you're going to be plugging gear all day, you'd be disappointed.

Ocalslay Onlyyay · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
John Wilder wrote:

That's what makes it a classic. But yes, if you slog up there thinking you're going to be plugging gear all day, you'd be disappointed.

Lord knows clipping a million bolts is where it's at, nawmean???


Cheers

DMT
Cron · · Kittery, ME · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 55
John Wilder wrote:

That's what makes it a classic. But yes, if you slog up there thinking you're going to be plugging gear all day, you'd be disappointed.

Thin Air

P1: 5.5 free solo. 

P1.5 (most parties do this as a P2 for some reason): a short traverse. 

P2: climb the often wet streak/dirty corner THEN get some nice exposure and about 80' of high quality climbing. 

P3: grovel up the dirt ramp or veer off to a short easy slab. 


The reason it's so popular, like many classic climbs, is b/c it's the easiest way to get to to the top. Note that Durrance and Kor-Ingalls has been mentioned 100x is this thread.
caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,450
Ocalslay Onlyyay wrote:

Is this what I think it is?!?

Circle the wagons, Nawmean?

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535
Cron wrote:

Thin Air 

P1: 5.5 free solo. 

P1.5 (most parties do this as a P2 for some reason): a short traverse. 

P2: climb the often wet streak/dirty corner THEN get some nice exposure and about 80' of high quality climbing. 

P3: grovel up the dirt ramp or veer off to a short easy slab. 


The reason it's so popular, like many classic climbs, is b/c it's the easiest way to get to to the top. Note that Durrance and Kor-Ingalls has been mentioned 100x is this thread.

What are you talking about? I was referring to Levitation 29 being fun because it's bolted so generously. I love that I can hike up with a single skinny line and a super light rack.

 I've never climbed Thin Air.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "What 'classic' did you hate???"

Log In to Reply