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What 'classic' did you hate???


Original Post
Karl K · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 525

So, I just climbed "Hobbit Book" in Tuolumne.  Supposedly, a 5-star 5.7.
I found the cracks dirty and the belays terrible and awkward.  The runout out the third pitch was 'lessened' by slinging 6 or 7 plates - not sure any of those would have actually stayed on in a real fall.
(on the plus side, other than p3, the gear was great and the descent was easy to follow)
So many 5.7s in Tuolumne that I will climb over and over - I just don't get why this one is all that popular???

What 'classic' climb(s) did you, uh, have an alternate opinion about?

Cory F · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25

Royal arches....  wasnt a hate but kind of a let down.  

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,185

Hobbit was cool in my book!

I felt underwhelmed by the nearby Lucky Streaks. It seemed like tedious calf pumpery, never a fun flow. I’d reclimb a lot of other climbs in Tuolumne before I got back to that one.

C Archibolt · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 871
Cory F wrote: Royal arches....  wasnt a hate but kind of a let down.  

Royal Arches was definitely a royal scramble. Also Matthes Crest. It’s a beautiful piece of rock but there isn’t a single memorable section on the whole thing. 

JCM · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 95

I was generally underwhelmed by The Naked Edge. Certainly didn’t hate it, but didn’t think it lived up to its reputation as an all-time greatest route ever.

I liked Royal Arches, but I did it as a speedy simulclimb to get to Crest Jewel. It was pretty fun in that context. I could see it being less fun as an all-day, pitched out type route. 

JCM · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 95

A related note- in Squamish I’ve often found the 3 or 4 star routes better than the 5 star (or “top 100”) famous routes. The famous routes often get their fame by following the most striking lines- long splitters or corners- but this often leads to more monotonous climbing. The slightly less obvious, less visually striking lines generally seem to have more varied and interesting movement, as they link various discontinuous features. 

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535

Shockley's in the Gunks is, to this day, one of the worst routes I've ever climbed. The 'roof' is forgettable, getting to it is chossy and poorly protected, and the top is ho-hum. I cannot, for the life of me, understand why it's considered a classic- especially with all the amazing climbing all around it.

Also don't think much of Geronimo in Red Rock. Probably the only 'classic' I did once and would never do again. Rope eating rappels aside, the climbing is mediocre at best.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535
JCM wrote: A related note- in Squamish I’ve often found the 3 or 4 star routes better than the 5 star (or “top 100”) famous routes. The famous routes often get their fame by following the most striking lines- long splitters or corners- but this often leads to more monotonous climbing. The slightly less obvious, less visually striking lines generally seem to have more varied and interesting movement, as they link various discontinuous features. 

Fully agree on this one. Some of my favorite routes I've done there aren't in the top 100.

JCM · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 95

Classic route I thought legitimately sucked- Prince of Darkness at Red Rocks. The same crimp move over and over again for hundreds of feet. Thought it was pretty uninteresting and tedious. So many much better routes on that wall and elsewhere in Red Rocks.

Kerrick Robinson · · Corvallis, OR · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 5

I thought Mental Physics was over-rated for sure.

Mobes Mobesely · · Granite island · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 865

All of them with old school ratings that made me feel inadequate. Plus I hate grease.

Adam Fleming · · WNC, Moab · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 301

The Bastille is a polished all-day-parade.  Rewritten is much better for the grade and give you a bit of air under your feet.

Danny Sandoval · · HB, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

Fancy free in the needles. Dirty bottomed out crack to super sick splitter brah! For like 30'.  Then more meh climbing to the top.

Jesse Via · · Oxford, Ohio · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Maybe I'm just bad at offwidth, but the Kor-Ingalls on Castleton

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 26
Adam Fleming wrote: The Bastille is a polished all-day-parade.  Rewritten is much better for the grade and give you a bit of air under your feet.

Nice to know I'm not the only person who feels this way.

Jimmy Yammine · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 20
Kerrick Robinson wrote: I thought Mental Physics was over-rated for sure.
+1
Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,195
Adam Fleming wrote: The Bastille is a polished all-day-parade.  Rewritten is much better for the grade and give you a bit of air under your feet.

True, but:
"Rewritten is much better for the grade"
That is a measured compliment.

None of these routes are really hate-worthy, IMO, but I will admit that many of those mentioned certainly seem over-hyped.

Thomas Gilmore · · Golden, CO · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 80

+1 kor-ingalls

Alan Coon · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150
Adam Fleming wrote: The Bastille is a polished all-day-parade.  Rewritten is much better for the grade and give you a bit of air under your feet.

2nd this comment 

Jared M · · Oakland, CA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 80
Karl K wrote: So, I just climbed "Hobbit Book" in Tuolumne.  Supposedly, a 5-star 5.7.
I found the cracks dirty and the belays terrible and awkward.
Odd - I remember clean rock minus 10' on p1/p2 (pretty sure I was off route to the right) and the belays were all comfy. We linked 1-2 and ran pitch 3 to just below the roof though, so YMMV.

The route was pure fun. After the p1 ramp I was literally smiling the entire way up. Airy knob climbing, a cool traverse under the roof, and bomber jams everywhere else.

5 stars in my book. Only reason I'd give it less is because it's over too soon.

ETA - agree that Royal Arches was kind of a let down. A few great sections with a lot of 'meh' in between
Peter J · · Davis, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 105

IMO Oompa and Loompa were pretty lame. Also, I wasn't overly psyched on my first time climbing AC devil dog, but really enjoyed it when I went back and did it a second time.
Surprised to hear people bashing royal arches--it's 5.7, maybe I enjoyed it because I had low expectations given the grade. But it's a fun simul or solo. The handcracks are a blast and memorable to me.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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