Helen... I'm laughing. How about a new label... 'rope surfers'! I mean, they had a seriously territorial vibe. And I could come strutting in, with all the rope and gear I want... and then throw up a top rope on a bunny slope, and freak out over having to smear up a pitch... and they'd be booing and hissing from their perches.
Never assume that just because someone is at a place that they're a "local."
For all you know those people were terrified that you were going to arrive and pull their tourist tickets.
I spent my teens, twenties and a good part of my thirties surfing REALLY hard. Climbing has nothing on surfing in terms of the territorialism and vibing of strangers. If there's one thing in life I learned from that it's that projecting a comfortable air of confidence and competence breaks down almost all doors.
Just this morning I was in the water and a younger couple actually approached me in the lineup and said, "Wow, you make this look SO easy. Can you tell us how to get better at surfing?" So I told them a few things, first and foremost that they were doing absolutely the right thing by just putting in the time and going for it. And not to give up easily.
I do believe Dallas throws in, "you lead, we cook".... Guess we'll stick clip the sucker and both cook, eh?!
Best, Helen
No, no, it has to rhyme: You lead we feed! I know it's not proper English.
I really enjoy it when the synergy gets going and you have several groups of climbers sitting around the fire comparing notes. Doesn't happen real often.
Lori Milas wrote: and invite myself in.
We don't invite ourselves in, we are open and friendly and just hi say to fellow climbers. Many are guarded, like are you selling insurance? but then many are just as friendly back.
Never assume that just because someone is at a place that they're a "local."
For all you know those people were terrified that you were going to arrive and pull their tourist tickets.
I spent my teens, twenties and a good part of my thirties surfing REALLY hard. Climbing has nothing on surfing in terms of the territorialism and vibing of strangers. If there's one thing in life I learned from that it's that projecting a comfortable air of confidence and competence breaks down almost all doors.
Just this morning I was in the water and a younger couple actually approached me in the lineup and said, "Wow, you make this look SO easy. Can you tell us how to get better at surfing?" So I told them a few things, first and foremost that they were doing absolutely the right thing by just putting in the time and going for it. And not to give up easily.
Shoot, Senor!!! Now you SURF? What else don’t we know about you? Are we even sure you are old enough to qualify for this thread?
I play a mean game of pool. Does that count? I won two out of three at the “pool hall” today. My mother always called it the pool hall, and referred to the degenerates who hung out there. Well degenerates are my kind of people! But back to surfing...do we get verifying pictures? I’m impressed. An all round guy.
Dallas R wrote: We don't invite ourselves in, we are open and friendly and just hi say to fellow climbers. Many are guarded, like are you selling insurance? but then many are just as friendly back.
I'm usually pretty outgoing at climbing areas. I'll share beta when asked and offer assistance when needed.
Some people are friendly others aren't. Doesn't take long to figure out.
We've fed strangers and shared ropes on boyscout trips. It's always cool when people you just met are calling the boys by name and cheering them on.
As I said up thread if they're dismissive or unkind.....buttheads..... ;)
If the locals were dismissive or intentionally unkind I'd say they were "buttheads" but if they were just "all business" don't read anything into it.
400' of 5.10+ or 5.11 takes a serious mindset. And there's not a lot there to "fart around on"
You're going to need to work on your "fear of eposure" as most of the "bunny routes" are 350+ feet multipitch unless you rap off at the first belay.
Not trying to squish your goals or diminish your progress in any way but to quote Russ "Better double up on the fosamax" and definitely "bring the mustard"
That place looks really cool but crags that aren't straight forward walls like that will be a maze of ledges and exposed places so be ready.
Take some time to look at (and read the comments) on the few sub-5.9s there.
You'll know when you're ready......but a "cool head" would be a prerequisite at that crag....IMO
Squish my dreams? That sounds worse than squash or quash. It’s bad.
But seriously...what I am learning is that a route or crag captures my full attention and becomes the lure that makes me set goals and work harder. It’s out of reach right now but maybe I’ll get there. I’m sure it works this way for you? Today I was at the “other” climbing gym working on that damned chimney so one day I can climb the Flake. (Also made New Rule: no more attempts to climb indoor cracks. I don’t know why concrete is different but it is and I injured two fingers) Thank you for checking out the beta on that wall. Perhaps a guide will find me a tiny route to humor me. But I think you nailed it John. They were good climbers on hard routes and probably just all business. I have never yet met an unfriendly person...even remotely. It’s a wonderful community.
Shoot, Senor!!! Now you SURF? What else don’t we know about you? Are we even sure you are old enough to qualify for this thread?
I'm a much better surfer than climber, to be honest. But I enjoy climbing more these days. Technically I got aged out when Rgold changed the title of the new thread. But I hope you wise elders will still let me hang around.
I'm a much better surfer than climber, to be honest. But I enjoy climbing more these days. Technically I got aged out when Rgold changed the title of the new thread. But I hope you wise elders will still let me hang around.
John Barritt wrote: It looks like the on ramp route on the right side would be a good place to start. First pitch ends up at chains for a top-ropeable 5.10
Okie dictionary: Verb, Squish, squarsh, squooshed
Be safe, have fun.... ;)
Too late! My dreams have been squished. A wonderful memory... the one year I spent in Oklahoma, 7th grade, and the spelling tests. I failed spelling tests because the teacher's accent was so thick... I was spelling words the way she was pronouncing them. But what a wonderful year... horses in the barn, a cow named Daisy, fishing for bass, and waterskiing on the lake every morning. I could easily imagine someone saying 'squarsh'.
Thinking about that chimney at the gym yesterday. I shimmied, stemmed, smeared (and squarshed?)... did every possible combination of moves to finally arrive at the top... am still exhausted today. It was a long, slow, hot journey. I had declared at the beginning that I would probably make a good cat burgler. By the time I got to the top, we knew I definitely would NOT make a good burgler. Not one for stealthy, quiet and professional moves, yet.
But shit. What if I had to place pro on top of all that shimmying? How in the world do you guys (AND gals... ahem) do this? If I hadn't had solid protection of a top rope, I never would have attempted it. So that 5.8 Flake I aspire to is only a 5.8 when you lead it... and that's an entirely different game. We're not even going to discuss the off-width today. Impressed... .and mortified.
So sorry for this. But this appears to be the top of the chimney on the Flake... so often discussed. Some of you have climbed this. Is this the transition part of this climb? I realize I've become a little obsessed with it... but my goodness, this looks fun.
Lori, What kind of rock is that? Here is a hybrid sandstone chimney-slab climb. A well-protected sport route no less, at HCR in May. Also 5.8 and true to the grade. Unusual climb in many ways called Split Personality.
Lori, I haven't climbed The Flake but it seems to me the chimney is the least daunting part of it. The thing about climbing a chimney like that is you always have a good stance and should be able to rest, place gear, etc. It looks like it narrows considerably toward the back so you can place a big #3 or #4 cam back there. The move you'd want to protect is the transition out onto the face from the chimney. So you'd be placing gear there.
Lori Milas wrote: Thinking about that chimney at the gym yesterday. I shimmied, stemmed, smeared (and squarshed?)... did every possible combination of moves to finally arrive at the top... am still exhausted today. It was a long, slow, hot journey. I had declared at the beginning that I would probably make a good cat burgler. By the time I got to the top, we knew I definitely would NOT make a good burgler. Not one for stealthy, quiet and professional moves, yet.
But shit. What if I had to place pro on top of all that shimmying? How in the world do you guys (AND gals... ahem) do this? If I hadn't had solid protection of a top rope, I never would have attempted it. So that 5.8 Flake I aspire to is only a 5.8 when you lead it... and that's an entirely different game. We're not even going to discuss the off-width today. Impressed... .and mortified.
Lori, in my chimney, above, I am just about at the limit of what I can reach. At this point, it's a matter of facing out (or in) and using both arms and legs spread-eagled to span the gap. That kind of stemming I can do, but only with some hand and/or footholds, with our stupid slick basalt. Lacking those, it's sheer power, which I don't have. :-(
BUT, up until that point? You've got your whole body to work with, yay! In your photo, you still have a bend in your legs. For me, that means the whole backside can oppose my legs. One leg can also be back, to push against the wall. With back, arms, butt, legs, all available to push in opposition, I find it really secure and easy to skoosh up, and even just sit there. I've liked about harnesses having a cup holder for coffee breaks....
Your next pic, your project? A whole other problem. That off width is either going to be a great fit for a leg (or something) for you, as a female and probably smaller than the "standard" climber, or, you will find it spits you out the same as most of the gents out there! Either way, get after it on top rope and see! If you ever get here, my chimney will be a breeze, for you. But, City of Rocks? That's where the really fun stuff is in Idaho, for mere mortals. We also have stupid hard, I mean world class hard, over at the Fins. Something you can save for when you're a 5.12+ climber, eh?
Offwidths, IMO, are my only chance at ever out climbing anyone. And, exactly the right one, lol! I'd need to fit in, and my big friends be struggling. I'm hoping.....yeah, she's got a competitive streak! :-D
Señor Arroz wrote: This is the part that would freak me out, but this guy can show you the beta.
Senor... this youtube has given me nightmares and probably one of the reasons I decided against trying it on my last trip. As a mother, I want to spank this kid for risking his life like this. As a climber, I'm all in... but on top rope. Even then, it just feels terrifying. Would you climb it? (I think you could.)
Lori, in my chimney, above, I am just about at the limit of what I can reach. At this point, it's a matter of facing out (or in) and using both arms and legs spread-eagled to span the gap. That kind of stemming I can do, but only with some hand and/or footholds, with our stupid slick basalt. Lacking those, it's sheer power, which I don't have. :-(
BUT, up until that point? You've got your whole body to work with, yay! In your photo, you still have a bend in your legs. For me, that means the whole backside can oppose my legs. One leg can also be back, to push against the wall. With back, arms, butt, legs, all available to push in opposition, I find it really secure and easy to skoosh up, and even just sit there. I've liked about harnesses having a cup holder for coffee breaks....
Your next pic, your project? A whole other problem. That off width is either going to be a great fit for a leg (or something) for you, as a female and probably smaller than the "standard" climber, or, you will find it spits you out the same as most of the gents out there! Either way, get after it on top rope and see! If you ever get here, my chimney will be a breeze, for you. But, City of Rocks? That's where the really fun stuff is in Idaho, for mere mortals. We also have stupid hard, I mean world class hard, over at the Fins. Something you can save for when you're a 5.12+ climber, eh?
Offwidths, IMO, are my only chance at ever out climbing anyone. And, exactly the right one, lol! I'd need to fit in, and my big friends be struggling. I'm hoping.....yeah, she's got a competitive streak! :-D
Best, Helen
Helen... I love your chimney! I can see your dilemma... and I felt it yesterday on my chimney... it feels like risking a groin injury if you stem and fail. It suddenly occurred to me that maybe the off width on my proposed climb (Flake) could be a special blessing... maybe it's exactly the right size for me. You may recall Jeff saying the slab is a walk in the park, it's the off-width at the top of the chimney that causes all the problems. Someone else here... Russ?... said he used to do laps on this route.
I hope you will take a video of yourself climbing your chimney. I'd love to see this. Maybe some girl power is the way to get some advantage on these climbs. Was thinking this morning... amazing athletes here, strong men, big muscles, and years of practice... how in the world can we ever do these same climbs? But maybe size does matter. Regardless... all we can do is work at it, try hard, be happy with what we can do... and celebrate the upward and onward!!!
I think in the end, slab will be my thing. John has some beautiful slab pictures that are purely inspirational! But you gotta climb through the chimneys and cracks to get to that beautiful slab.
Or maybe we should all just take up surfing. (On my bucket list... thought of giving it a few days in September before J Tree).
Yikes! From the video, it doesn't look like there's much opportunity to place pro even if you're roped up. The crack seems to disappear.
There's a bolt right by his right hand as he exits the actual "flake" and then there's one about 8 feet higher up. You can see them both in the video if you look close. So it's easy to protect. Except, of course, he's soloing.
Senor... this youtube has given me nightmares and probably one of the reasons I decided against trying it on my last trip. As a mother, I want to spank this kid for risking his life like this. As a climber, I'm all in... but on top rope. Even then, it just feels terrifying. Would you climb it? (I think you could.)
I think it looks fun. I've led other 5.8 J-tree slab. And this section is bolted pretty close together. But I bet it feels damn exposed moving out on to that slab.
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