Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold are about to break the nose speed record

A couple weeks ago Tommy put up an Instagram post about speed climbing the nose for the first time with Alex.  Back then he said they were already lapping it at 3 hours, now his most recent post says they’re down to 2 1/2.  How low can they go?  Is it only a matter of time before they break the record now?

Based on the flapper Honnold just ripped, I'd give it at least 2-3 weeks. Depends on if the valley gets too hot, which it is starting to get rather toasty on certain days.

They're both extremely driven climbers (as is any professional in the sport). I wouldn't be surprised if they break 2:15.00. I think breaking the two hour barrier is still a little far off though.

I mean, if Alex Honnold clones himself, they'd definitely have an unbeatable record.

I'm a little surprised to see Caldwell getting in on this. On the tour for The Push he was saying his risk tolerance had gone way down since having kids, and speed climbing is not a low-risk form of climbing.

I can only imagine the sketchy shenanigans that are necessary to break that record. 

To break the record they have to climb at a little over 22ft every min for 2 hours and 15mins to break the record. Honestly not that fast of climbing but lots of endurance to maintain it for 3k ft.

The vast majority of the route is 5.10 - 5.11 climbing that they literally have climbed dozens of times. There's not a gear placement nor move they don't know about.  I agree with Viper, it basically boils down to fitness. 

David Kerkeslager wrote: I'm a little surprised to see Caldwell getting in on this. On the tour for The Push he was saying his risk tolerance had gone way down since having kids, and speed climbing is not a low-risk form of climbing.

Still taking 100ft whips on el cap, i think you have to think about where his risk tolerance was, way down is probably still mega sketchy and terrifying for us mere mortals.

Jplotz wrote: The vast majority of the route is 5.10 - 5.11 climbing that they literally have climbed dozens of times. There's not a gear placement nor move they don't know about.  I agree with Viper, it basically boils down to fitness. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjEQ6N1lnsz/?taken-by=tommycaldwell

My guess is that the record is safe for now-- would be hard to go full speed ahead after taking a 100 foot whipper on the route... 

that guy named seb wrote:

Still taking 100ft whips on el cap, i think you have to think about where his risk tolerance was, way down is probably still mega sketchy and terrifying for us mere mortals.

mpech wrote:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjEQ6N1lnsz/?taken-by=tommycaldwell

My guess is that the record is safe for now-- would be hard to go full speed ahead after taking a 100 foot whipper on the route... 

Yowza. That will be fun to watch in the next Reel Rock. 

David Kerkeslager wrote: I'm a little surprised to see Caldwell getting in on this. On the tour for The Push he was saying his risk tolerance had gone way down since having kids, and speed climbing is not a low-risk form of climbing.

Tommy once told me he simuls the Diamond in 45 minutes on “bad weather days” with like 7 pieces of gear or something. 

that guy named seb wrote:

Still taking 100ft whips on el cap, i think you have to think about where his risk tolerance was, way down is probably still mega sketchy and terrifying for us mere mortals.

Well, a 100ft whipper can be relatively safe (factor < 1, fall into space). At some level it's gotta be terrifying, but the objective risk could be quite low. We don't know without knowing where he fell.

I'm more talking about stuff like this, where the objective danger is quite established (see for example Quinn Brett's accident). And they have to take that risk to compete on time, because it's a time saving method used by record-holders before them.

That said, I think you're right. It's probable that his risk tolerance was higher than most before, so maybe this is a major risk reduction.

There are not many places on the nose I would want to take a 100’er. Lots of ledges and not a very steep route. Maybe the last pitch bolt ladder, but they, nor anybody else is falling there...

David Kerkeslager wrote: I'm a little surprised to see Caldwell getting in on this. On the tour for The Push he was saying his risk tolerance had gone way down since having kids, and speed climbing is not a low-risk form of climbing.

There's a difference between low-risk and lower-risk. Climbing is not a low risk activity in any form. El cap speed climbing, when compared to Fitz Roy traverse, is low-risk.

I do believe they done did it this morning.

2h09m or somesing...

Jacob Yelton wrote: 2h09m or somesing...

2:10:15 according to BradG

haha we all posted at the same time.

Gabe B. wrote: haha we all posted at the same time.

Appears so. I'll delete mine, seems the other one has good traction