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Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold are about to break the nose speed record


Original Post
Nick Thomas · · Fargo, ND · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 35

A couple weeks ago Tommy put up an Instagram post about speed climbing the nose for the first time with Alex.  Back then he said they were already lapping it at 3 hours, now his most recent post says they’re down to 2 1/2.  How low can they go?  Is it only a matter of time before they break the record now?

John Clark · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407

Based on the flapper Honnold just ripped, I'd give it at least 2-3 weeks. Depends on if the valley gets too hot, which it is starting to get rather toasty on certain days.

Jp Arico · · Plymouth · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 5

They're both extremely driven climbers (as is any professional in the sport). I wouldn't be surprised if they break 2:15.00. I think breaking the two hour barrier is still a little far off though.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

I mean, if Alex Honnold clones himself, they'd definitely have an unbeatable record.

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 127

I'm a little surprised to see Caldwell getting in on this. On the tour for The Push he was saying his risk tolerance had gone way down since having kids, and speed climbing is not a low-risk form of climbing.

Max Rausch · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 145

I can only imagine the sketchy shenanigans that are necessary to break that record. 

· · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

To break the record they have to climb at a little over 22ft every min for 2 hours and 15mins to break the record. Honestly not that fast of climbing but lots of endurance to maintain it for 3k ft.

Jplotz · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,195

The vast majority of the route is 5.10 - 5.11 climbing that they literally have climbed dozens of times. There's not a gear placement nor move they don't know about.  I agree with Viper, it basically boils down to fitness. 

Abandoned User · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 5,185

It makes sense; they are the kings of the captain.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205
David Kerkeslager wrote: I'm a little surprised to see Caldwell getting in on this. On the tour for The Push he was saying his risk tolerance had gone way down since having kids, and speed climbing is not a low-risk form of climbing.

Still taking 100ft whips on el cap, i think you have to think about where his risk tolerance was, way down is probably still mega sketchy and terrifying for us mere mortals.

mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2
Jplotz wrote: The vast majority of the route is 5.10 - 5.11 climbing that they literally have climbed dozens of times. There's not a gear placement nor move they don't know about.  I agree with Viper, it basically boils down to fitness. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjEQ6N1lnsz/?taken-by=tommycaldwell

My guess is that the record is safe for now-- would be hard to go full speed ahead after taking a 100 foot whipper on the route... 
JD · · Vanlifer · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 95
that guy named seb wrote:

Still taking 100ft whips on el cap, i think you have to think about where his risk tolerance was, way down is probably still mega sketchy and terrifying for us mere mortals.

Jplotz · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,195
mpech wrote:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjEQ6N1lnsz/?taken-by=tommycaldwell

My guess is that the record is safe for now-- would be hard to go full speed ahead after taking a 100 foot whipper on the route... 

Yowza. That will be fun to watch in the next Reel Rock. 

Don Ferris III · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 175
David Kerkeslager wrote: I'm a little surprised to see Caldwell getting in on this. On the tour for The Push he was saying his risk tolerance had gone way down since having kids, and speed climbing is not a low-risk form of climbing.

Tommy once told me he simuls the Diamond in 45 minutes on “bad weather days” with like 7 pieces of gear or something. 

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 127
that guy named seb wrote:

Still taking 100ft whips on el cap, i think you have to think about where his risk tolerance was, way down is probably still mega sketchy and terrifying for us mere mortals.

Well, a 100ft whipper can be relatively safe (factor < 1, fall into space). At some level it's gotta be terrifying, but the objective risk could be quite low. We don't know without knowing where he fell.

I'm more talking about stuff like this, where the objective danger is quite established (see for example Quinn Brett's accident). And they have to take that risk to compete on time, because it's a time saving method used by record-holders before them.

That said, I think you're right. It's probable that his risk tolerance was higher than most before, so maybe this is a major risk reduction.
Matt Thomsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 6

There are not many places on the nose I would want to take a 100’er. Lots of ledges and not a very steep route. Maybe the last pitch bolt ladder, but they, nor anybody else is falling there...

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
David Kerkeslager wrote: I'm a little surprised to see Caldwell getting in on this. On the tour for The Push he was saying his risk tolerance had gone way down since having kids, and speed climbing is not a low-risk form of climbing.

There's a difference between low-risk and lower-risk. Climbing is not a low risk activity in any form. El cap speed climbing, when compared to Fitz Roy traverse, is low-risk.

Jacob Yelton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

I do believe they done did it this morning.

Jacob Yelton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

2h09m or somesing...

John Clark · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407
Jacob Yelton wrote: 2h09m or somesing...

2:10:15 according to BradG

Gabe B. · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 86

haha we all posted at the same time.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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