What are the best sandbagged routes you can think of? Sport, Trad, and Bouldering

i figured travelers buttress at the leap would be a good rest day workout....that was stout 9+

Isn't TB rated 5.9? Sounds like it felt right on the money...

Big Pink in Vedauwoo
oh did i mention Big Pink in Vedauwoo!!!!
and that one line..... Big Pink!
seriously its giving me nighmares

"Debutante" at High Rappel Dell in Presott, AZ. A purported 5.5...a bolt with scary home-made bed frame hanger is in the middle of section that felt at least as hard as 5.9....thinnest 5.5 I've ever encountered!!

"Entrance Crack" at Stone is nearly a tie though; with a tipped out #6 waaay below my feet, I simply stepped out of the crack and frictioned my way up. Reeeaaally spooky and still not 5.4, but easier.

JMo wrote:P2 of thin ice, @ needles CA

Hell yea. I placed one piece on that pitch then lowered off and made my partner do it! Damn slot corner.

Kind of a shock to see 5 pages of this without someone mentioning the Generator Crack in Yosemite.

I'm surprised to see the number of votes for Mother #1 at Vedauwoo...not because it isn't sandbagged, but because IMHO the nearby "Upper Slot", also rated 5.7+, was much, much harder. The guidebook also said that Lower Slot (right variation) was an 8-, and it, too, seemed much easier that Upper Slot. I must confess that I was able to use some face and chimney techniques on Mother #1 and Lower Slot rather than tackling them as offwidths; perhaps this is the cause of my confusion?

Ben Brotelho wrote: "Wait.... people care about boulder problems? I think the most famous one in the Gunks is Modern Times. Listed at 5.8+ in the grey Dick Williams guide, but 5.10b in the (very silly) Orenczak/Lynn guide." That new guidebook IS silly...Modern Times is spot on for 5.8+ in my opinion. Laurel, now that is sandbagged at 5.7...

Maybe if you cared more about boulder problems, you would have an easier time with Laurel, since that climb basically is a boulder problem. ;D

Maybe if you looked closer, you’d see that this thread is 5 years old.  Sick burn, though. ;)

Okay, this has got to be a bug. I keep seeing really old threads in my "Latest Post in All Forums" list. It doesn't happen always but it totally happened here.

EDIT: I also didn't get the warning about posting on an old thread before I posted. So maybe the code that detects thread age is screwed up.

• Speedway Boogie at Leda, Chattanooga
• More Fun with Dick and Jane at Sunset, Chattanooga
• Pretty much anything in the Dixie Cragger's Atlas. 

I remember Soler as scary but not super hard??  West pole on the other hand is a complete joke @7+  It would be some kind of 10b @ many areas.... the direct finish to west pole at 5.6 is even funnier.....

City Lights in the Gunks (boulder-problem start is off by two full grades), Recluse at Cathedral in NH (the start is rated 10+, but in almost 40 years climbing here I've never seen anyone do the move), and Fastest Gun in the Daks (it's only 10-, right.........); oh, and Rainbow Buttress in the soft-grade mecca of Red Rocks, rated 8+ but it worked us harder than Dream of Wild Turkeys or Sour Mash.

Kyle Stapp wrote: Quite a few between the Gunks and Seneca alone but I`m saying Soler 5.7 on the East Face, South Peak, Seneca. The new guidebook(s) will be putting it as 5.9 possibly 5.9+.I 

I love that route, decent quality climbing the whole way. 

Darren Mabe wrote: no mention of anything on Granite Mountain?

Old thread but someone had mentioned Magnolia Thunderpussy on another page. Granite Mt. has plenty of bags to go around though.

The Burn at Seneca comes to mind.

Someone already mentioned NE Buttress of HCR and I would give that one another vote.

Anything with "Kor" in the name.

A lot of Northeast/NY crags were rated according to the best method of ascent, i.e. moves wired instead of the most probable method of ascent (e.g. Crow Hill or Daks are big offenders).

The thread led off with Hungry for Heaven at TWall and that is a pumpy ass 10D, but soooo good.

Oh and calling the Seal at Looking Glass 10a is kind of a stretch.

Haha, guess we’re going with it!

Coatimundi Crack - Devil’s Lake.  Fu&@ that climb.

The Burn at Seneca comes to mind.

I feel like the Burn is definitely not as sandbagged as many other routes at Seneca.

Not sure if anyone has mentioned Midterm (5.10b) at Arch Rock...took about everything out of me just to get to the top. Felt so much harder than any other Valley 5.10 I have gotten on.

Ted Pinson wrote: Haha, guess we’re going with it!

Coatimundi Crack - Devil’s Lake.  Fu&@ that climb.

I think 10a is about right, if I am remembering the right crack. The start is really the only part that is hard, really slick.

Carey's Corner at Ragged in CT