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What are the best sandbagged routes you can think of? Sport, Trad, and Bouldering


Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0
Ted Pinson wrote: Haha, guess we’re going with it!

Coatimundi Crack - Devil’s Lake.  Fu&@ that climb.

I think 10a is about right, if I am remembering the right crack. The start is really the only part that is hard, really slick.

Ross Ayer · · Southington, CT · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 60

Carey's Corner at Ragged in CT

jason oliphant · · warren, Pa · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 20

?  question
isn't it possible (then) to fix these distortions.  from a total n00bs POV this seem dangerous to me.  

Doug Kinsman · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 0
Spencer Perry wrote: I feel like the Burn is definitely not as sandbagged as many other routes at Seneca.

Not sure if anyone has mentioned Midterm (5.10b) at Arch Rock...took about everything out of me just to get to the top. Felt so much harder than any other Valley 5.10 I have gotten on.

You are right, Seneca is loaded with bags. Climb and Punishment, Castor/Pollux, SSS, all examples of Seneca bagging. For whatever reason that 10 feet of finger crack with minimal feet on the Burn always seemed like a lot more than 5.8 to me. Man I miss that place.

Hamish Malin · · Fredericksburg, VA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 15

Bat Crack, Intersection Rock, Jtree.  That 5.5 felt like a 5.10-11 and almost broke me.  I may have gotten too deep in the crack but regardless it’s hella bagged.  Also pretty consistantly bagged for an older Josh route.

Doug Kinsman · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 0
jason oliphant wrote: ?  question
isn't it possible (then) to fix these distortions.  from a total n00bs POV this seem dangerous to me.  

Well some just have to do with certain areas that are graded a little stiff and you need to realize that when traveling somewhere new you should downshift a grade or two while becoming familiar with that area. In other cases you just need to learn that certain first ascentionist and/or time periods resulted in routes that were graded tougher; all information provided in a decent guidebook. To "fix" these route grades can result in under appreciation for the level the first ascentionist was climbing at the time as they were putting up 10b's in hiking boots and calling them 5.8. If you do your homework you should have a good idea what you are up against before roping up.

Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

Mother #1, 5.7, Vedauwoo.

matt swaim · · Charlotte, North Carolina · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 30

Dolphin 5.7 J-Tree

Another vote for Kor-Ingalls 5.9, Casleton

....maybe I just suck at offwidth

Erik Misiak · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Pitch 1 of Mars Attacks in Sedona and its only getting harder

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,186
matt swaim wrote: Dolphin 5.7 J-Tree

Another vote for Kor-Ingalls 5.9, Casleton

....maybe I just suck at offwidth

Leave OW grades alone. Everybody who needs to knows and it’s fun to watch the uninitiated quickly learn when they pay in blood and sweat.

Boots Ylectric · · Chicago IL · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165

Most Devil's Lake moderates.  But this one was my first good "whip."

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

OK... I’ll toss this out there: False Classic Corner. Josh.

GB says 5.8 ...... seconds before I went flying... I remember thinking “where the F are the holds?”

And Seneca rocks.... back in the day any climber who called Seneca home had a huge inferiority  complex - even worse than Colorado boys.

So whenever they traveled to Yosemite or anyplace in California they needed to downgrade All climbs, just to feel good.

Example: When Herb L and Eve moved here one of the first places they visited was the Needles.
Herb looked at the yet unclimbed line that would become Egor Unchained. He immediately jumped on it and did the FA. Herb called it a “5.6 maybe 5.7”......with a straight face. 

John Clark · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 372
Brent Butcher wrote: 1st pitch of after six in Yosemite. The so called "worlds hardest 5.6!" Felt more like 5.8 or 5.9

It wasn't sandbag till the tree fell out. Lazy Bum in Yose. Fingerlock at Sugarloaf. Surrealistic Pillar at Lover's Leap. 

Jerry432 · · odessa texas · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 10

Haven't seen El Burro V3 in Hueco on the list. I prefer sport routes but live close to Hueco so I will frequent and the guidebook is quite accurate in the v3 to v9 climber challenge for this problem.

Peter J · · Davis, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 115
John Clark wrote:

It wasn't sandbag till the tree fell out. Lazy Bum in Yose. Fingerlock at Sugarloaf. Surrealistic Pillar at Lover's Leap. 

I definitely sandbagged myself onto Fingerlock when I was still very new to trad. It's a heady lead for a budding 5.10- trad climber!

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,186
Peter Foster wrote:

I definitely sandbagged myself onto Fingerlock when I was still very new to trad. It's a heady lead for a budding 5.10- trad climber!

That was an early 5.10 for me too. Shimmy a tree to a blind nut placement into an engaging crux. Test piece for sure.

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 110

Umph Slot, 5.8, The Dome, Boulder Canyon. 5.8 in my ancient BC guide, but 10+ on MP :-/

John Clark · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 372
Colonel Mustard wrote:

That was an early 5.10 for me too. Shimmy a tree to a blind nut placement into an engaging crux. Test piece for sure.

Yeah, I thought being a solid 5.11 yose climber would have made 10b in Tahoe feel like a warmup...lol

Rob D. · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30

Double Chin, Gunks, 5.5.  Of all of the gunks ratings that make me shake my head, Double Chin is by far the most out of touch with reality.  Yeah Coex feels a lot harder, Modern Times or Absurdland might be a grade off or need a +, but Double Chin is just insane for the grade.  Just walking down the carriage road I've seen three people hanging or being lowered before the top because they couldn't finish.  
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106133896/double-chin

Matt Robinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0
eli poss wrote:
  1. Speedway Boogie at Leda, Chattanooga

Speedway Boogie is a great 5.7+ if you don't count the 5.9+ climbing on polished feet to the first bolt

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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