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What are the best sandbagged routes you can think of? Sport, Trad, and Bouldering


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Alex Dziaba · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 5

What are some of the most sandbagged routes in the US? I was thinking Hungry for Heaven at T-Wall is a good one.

Brandon Gottung · · Moab, UT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,472

Crack of Fear - 5.10d (Lumpy Ridge)

Kyle Stapp · · Pennsylvania · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,935

Quite a few between the Gunks and Seneca alone but I`m saying Soler 5.7 on the East Face, South Peak, Seneca. The new guidebook(s) will be putting it as 5.9 possibly 5.9+.

camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240

I agree on Hungry for Heaven, that thing is very 10++. Others that come to mind would be:
-Coexistence at the Gunks
-Bombs Over Tripoli at City of Rocks
-Barbeque the Pope at Smith Rock
-Jesus and Tequila at the NRG (I've heard The Racist is pretty hard, too, but have not been on it)
-Shredded Wheat, Rumbling Bald, NC
-Wiggins II at Indian Creek
-Sign of the Cross at Hueco Tanks.

Now everyone can chime in and tell me how weak I am for thinking these were hard.

shotgunnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

Circus trick at big bend. Hardest V4 ever

· · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Every 5.9 in the McDowell range.

Or I am just weak.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 311

Easy.... "False Classic Corner" in Josh. GB says 5.7.... To me it felt like 5.10....

Bob Robinson · · Lone Tree, Colorado · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 245

Kahuna Roof (V5) at Carter Lake

Jon H · · MD/DC · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 121

Wait.... people care about boulder problems?

I think the most famous one in the Gunks is Modern Times. Listed at 5.8+ in the grey Dick Williams guide, but 5.10b in the (very silly) Orenczak/Lynn guide.

Ian Cavanaugh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 615

Yes to Bombs in the City! compare that to Gemini, not even close.
also Diesel Driver in Gallatin Canyon and pretty much any route that Dwight Bishop did in Butte, Homestake pass. He kept getting strong, but his grading never changed!

Joe De Luca · · yucca valley · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 127

All the sport climbs on Dome Rock out by the Needles in CA.

TomCaldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 2,796

Tits and Beer at Looking Glass
Aerospace Cadet "
Stannard's Crack at Mt. Yonah

I've heard Shredded called 10d. Wouldn't classify it as a sandbag. How can you sandbag a boulder problem when there is not much consequence to getting in over your head.

Seth Derr · · harrisburg, pa · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 2,060
The Stoned Master wrote:Quite a few between the Gunks and Seneca alone but I`m saying Soler 5.7 on the East Face, South Peak, Seneca. The new guidebook(s) will be putting it as 5.9 possibly 5.9+.
Really?? 5.9+? I thought 5.7 felt right on for that one. I'll concede that the first pitch is scary but not hard, and i don't remember anyting particularly difficult about the second. I'd put West Pole at more of a sandbag than Soler.
Princess Mia · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 410

Umph Slot in Boulder Canyon....... 5.8.......haha

Adam Stackhouse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 13,230

Every noob in the nineties got tricked into jumping on the then 5.7- Captain Kronos at Josh

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 105

Any boulder problem with the word Bachar in the name.

DylanJK · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 305
Seth Derr wrote: Really?? 5.9+? I thought 5.7 felt right on for that one. I'll concede that the first pitch is scary but not hard, and i don't remember anyting particularly difficult about the second. I'd put West Pole at more of a sandbag than Soler.
Agreed. IMO, most routes at Seneca and the Gunks
To me, the one that stands out the most is the 2nd pitch of Birdie Party in the Gunks. Listed as 10b, I thought 11-.
Chance Philippi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 310

anything climbed before 1970. Try leading Soler in Hiking boots. Love Seneca Rocks

Morgan Patterson · · CT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,759

Most of CT's classics.

camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240
TomCaldwell wrote:I've heard Shredded called 10d. Wouldn't classify it as a sandbag.
Yeah, I've heard that, too, and it seems that I'm the only person that thinks Shredded Wheat was really hard. Maybe I was just having a bad day, but it totally shut me down, and I'm usually pretty good at fingercracks.
camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240

Oh, and one other boulder problem (yes, boulder problems can be sandbags)-- Soap on a Rope at Rocktown. As the new guidebook says, "The hardest v5 at Rocktown. Oh, wait, it's v4."

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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