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Near Miss on Cathedral Peak

vincent L. · · Redwood City · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 560
Hamish Malin wrote:

I care, because every death is another step towards closures and/or overregulation of the sport.

Can you give evidence of one closure or increased regulation caused by a soloist death?

Hamish Hamish · · Fredericksburg, VA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 15
vincent L. wrote:

Can you give evidence of one closure or increased regulation caused by a soloists death?

Nope, but I would argue that climbing accidents (death or otherwise) in general certainly hurt rather than help access - its common sense.  You disagree?

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

I'm still cracking up about him biting the rope...solid!

Air Alexy · · Washington, DC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 30
Hamish Malin wrote:

Nope, but I would argue that climbing accidents (death or otherwise) in general certainly hurt rather than help access - its common sense.  You disagree?

Perhaps in some instances. And I wouldn't blame any land manager for panicking after watching some of this guy's videos. But nobody is going to close Cathedral Peak if someone were to die climbing it. 

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 908
Hamish Malin wrote:

I care, because every death is another step towards closures and/or overregulation of the sport.

False.  Do you know how many things would be illegal in this country if that were true.  Bikes, motorcycles, skiing, cigarettes, soda, sky diving, scuba, on and on.   Climbing is more likely to become illegal if we get a single payer health care system where a bureaucrat gets to decide what's good for you and what's not.  But not from the occasional climbing death which has been happening for decades.  

But, thumbs up for the selfish thought..

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Air Alexy wrote:

Perhaps in some instances. And I wouldn't blame any land manager for panicking after watching some of this guy's videos. But nobody is going to close Cathedral Peak if someone were to die climbing it. 

How would you feel about a mandatory permit, which requires a climbing resume, medical clearance, watching a 20 minute instructional video on climbing safety, rack inspection, and pack inspection to check that you have all the required mandatory gear?

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

When is someone going to photoshop Honnold in the Monster OW trailing bright orange webbing and a pack sporting gardening gloves?

Air Alexy · · Washington, DC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 30
Marc801 C wrote:

How would you feel about a mandatory permit, which requires a climbing resume, medical clearance, watching a 20 minute instructional video on climbing safety, rack inspection, and pack inspection to check that you have all the required mandatory gear?

Great question.

I'm just kidding. That's a stupid question. Why would you ask it?

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2

I wouldn't be surprised if a permit system were instituted for cathedral peak, due to crowding/environmental degradation concerns. The stream of people on this climb dying/hurting themselves/getting stuck in thunderstorms are all considerations that would push towards permitting occurring. 

JohnReg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10
Addem Bursh wrote:

I'm still cracking up about him biting the rope...solid!

Thank you. Loved this. I can't stop imagining some half wit soloist looking up at me as I try to help him and the rope in his teeth. Legend!

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Air Alexy wrote:

Great question.

I'm just kidding. That's a stupid question. Why would you ask it?

Well, you wrote:

But nobody is going to close Cathedral Peak if someone were to die climbing it. 

I agree, but that doesn't mean that regulations wouldn't or couldn't be put in place. Other than the climbing safety video, some parts of the other regs I mentioned were once in effect at Devil's Tower (gear inspection) or Baxter State Park (mandatory gear, medical release, climbing resume). Thus while closure is the most negative outcome of this assclown dieing and unlikely, it doesn't necessarily mean no effect. Consider that there are already hard usage limits at a lot of areas in our national parks. 

Air Alexy · · Washington, DC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 30
Marc801 C wrote:

Well, you wrote:

I agree, but that doesn't mean that regulations wouldn't or couldn't be put in place. Other than the climbing safety video, some parts of the other regs I mentioned were once in effect at Devil's Tower (gear inspection) or Baxter State Park (mandatory gear, medical release, climbing resume). Thus while closure is the most negative outcome of this assclown dieing and unlikely, it doesn't necessarily mean no effect. Consider that there are already hard usage limits at a lot of areas in our national parks. 

I just meant that, obviously, of course I do not favor those kinds of regulations. But their likelihood is incredibly small. I can't think of anything similar in the Sierras. The regulations you mention are no longer in effect at Devil's Tower or Baxter, if I'm not mistaken. If anything, permitting will happen because of the explosion in popularity of climbing, and because we have too many idiots in the hills. Not because this guy dies and we have one fewer.

Christina Diana · · Bay Area, CA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 70
Jim Turner wrote:

Reminds me of the scene in The Beach where Leo went native.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=40mbrI-n_BA

Proud owner of the hiss... don't fuck with me or my partner's safety... 

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,026
Addem Bursh wrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4sxNF5gZ4M

This one is gold, no haulbag but the storm midway up the face is classic.  We'll read about this gent, unfortunately, if these videos/threads are any indication.  I hope he wises up.

A "try" at Cathedral Peak? Is he a red point free soloist? You don't give the free solo a "try." 

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 12,101

When you are trained as a first responder the first thing you do after making several scene/partner/victim assessments is to introduce yourself as a trained first responder and ask the victim if you can help them - if they say no; you're done. They can bleed out right in front of you and you can't lift a finger. In situations where someone soloing looks like they're in over their head,  or gripped, you can ask them the same thing (if it doesn't endanger your life, or the lives of others) if they say no - that's it. I had a situation on El Cap East Buttress where a soloist cruised past me then started to look really iffy on the steep exposed section above, he was trailing a rope - I asked him if he wanted me to put him on belay, he said no. He figured it out and got through it. But the thought of watching him fall was not appealing - it would have had a serious affect upon me.

Jplotz · · Cashmere, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,335

Why do people keep referring to this clown as a free soloist when he has to rely on others to either summit or bail him out?

Doesn't sound like soloing to me. More like leeching.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Air Alexy wrote:

I just meant that, obviously, of course I do not favor those kinds of regulations. But their likelihood is incredibly small.

It's small until it directly affects you. 

Gunks: 

Skytop closed for over 20 years - now climbable again, but only with a guide from one specific guiding company, and for a time required a stay at the MMH at $350/night

Multi year closure of a section of the Near Trapps that is on private property

City of Rocks:

Twin Sisters closure due to being a historic viewshed for the California Trail

1/3 of Elephant Rock and 8 other formations closed - private pasture land

When first established, the new Castle Rocks state park allowed route development by specific climbers in a zone by zone approach; bolting reviewed by committee

Cave Rock CA:

All routes erased and bolts removed - native american religious litigation

Eldo and Red Rock NCA:

Fixed gear requires approval from committee

Not climbing at all - Black Bear Pass road above Telluride. The local sheriff called for permanent closure in 2015 after yet another death on the road.

Yes, a variety of examples for a variety of reasons, none of which have anything to do with someone dieing. But it does illustrate that regulations can happen at any time for any reason. One or more deaths could merely be another of those reasons that creates onerous regulations or closure.

DannyJ · · San Diego, CA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 95

I'm still blown away that he's climbing with Gorilla Grip gloves on. I wouldn't climb anything but a ladder with those.
Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10
Air Alexy wrote:

Why would anyone really care that much if this guy lives or dies? Every one of us is gonna exit at some point, but this jerk doesn't seem to care if he takes any of us with him. I'm not faulting folks for offering him aid. In fact, I'd do the same thing, if asked. But all the sympathy and the "I was just glad he made it out alive" comments have me wondering if anyone out there is feeling the same way I am? 

In addition to being extremely dangerous to our fellow climbers, this guy is a total asshole and an egomaniacal attention seeker. If he doesn't stop, he's going to hurt someone. There are two ways he could stop: 

    (1) He wises up, stops doing this, and goes on to live a happy and productive life. 

    (2) He falls and dies.

Does anyone really believe that option 1 will happen?

Am I a monster, or does anyone else feel this way?

Honestly my first gut reaction was "Why the hell didn't someone give him a quick kick and send him on his way.  He's obviously suicidal - better to take him out before he takes someone with him"  

Then the rational part of my brain said "No that's too mean."

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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