Route recommendations?? WA,BC,UT,WY,CO,SD

Leaving the 23rd for a month Long climbing trip, climbing rainier , smith rock , Leavenworth, Squamish, little cotton canyon, Ten sleeps, black canyon, rifle , Rocky Mountain, and the needles. Wondering if any of you dudes had route recommendations , looking in the 12a-13b range for sport, 10-12 range for trad. THANKS YALL!

you may not take this as helpful but I think thats waaaay too many places for only a month. I'd pick a smaller zone (PNW, Rockies) and enjoy it more and not be in a car for almost a week of your trip...

I'll be pnw based for the first half. Then we're doing options, it'll be lcc or ten sleeps and then rmn or rifle. Depends on the weather. If we like a spot well stay, it's not my first go round ;) do you have any route recommendations?

I agree with Travis - far too many places for even two months, let alone one. A few wouldn't be on my list at all for mid-summer (Smith, the Black, LCC).
BTW, it's Ten Sleep, not Sleeps.

I'd do Rainier, North Cascades, Tetons, Tensleep, Devils Tower if you get lucky on weather, and then the Black Hills - cooler and much less driving.

Thanks andrew I appreciate you actually responding to what I was inquiring about.

Leavenworth - Snow Creek wall, and various alpine routes (if you want to spend the time / energy). Gets pretty hot in Icicle Canyon and on Snow Creek Wall in the summer (but I live in the northwest and am kind of a pussy about temperature). Much of the good alpine rock there lies within a permit controlled area for overnight camping. North Ridge of Stuart is mellower than what you're looking for but hella fun. South face routes on Prusik are popular.

Consider Index to satisfy the itch for harder cragging.

WA pass offers some good multipitch "roadside alpine".

For hard sport in Utah I'd drive half an hour south of Little Cottonwood and go to American Fork canyon. Lots of routes well reputed routes there, but I don't have any specific suggestions as your range is harder than mine.

Lone Peak Cirque (just south of LCC) and Devil's Castle (in LCC) will have nice trad climbing at high altitude. Hellgate has nice sport climbing and usually stays reasonably cool. Lots of great multipitch cruisers in both Big and Little cottonwood canyon, many basically roadside.

The Black and Rifle and LCC may be too hot

For RMNP you could go to the Monastary (not in the park, but on the way with great views of Longs Peak). Beautiful setting. Work on Psychotomic 12d (one of the best in the state) and Crack a Smile 12b. Wizards Gate is also in a beautiful setting and really cool temps for summer cragging.
Up in the Park you should do something on the Diamond (D7 or Black Dagger are my favorites) and something on the Spearhead (All Too Obvious or Spear Me the Details). My opinion of the best spots to climb in the Park. Or Birds of Fire on Cheifshead. I never get tired of Glacier Gorge (where Spearhead and Cheifshead are located).

Squamish. Any of the classics are incredible. In your grade you should definitely get on Grand Wall. As good as it gets IMO.

You will be driving right through from WY to RMNP so you might consider a day or two in Vedauwoo. Cool summer temps and amazing place. Get on Spectreman, Max Factor, Currey's Diagonal, Beef Eater, Eleven Cent Moon..... OR get spanked on some wide cracks.

Have a good trip!!

Index should fill the bill for your trad and sport climbing desires

Marc801 wrote:A few wouldn't be on my list at all for mid-summer (Smith, the Black, LCC).

Let me ammend that to lower LCC is probably too hot. Once you get to Tanner's Gulch and above (Hellgate, Albion Basin, Devil's Castle) it gets cooler thanks to elevation, although Hellgate can still be toasty since it faces south.

For the OP's grade range, American Fork and Maple Canyon are arguably better choices - admittedly all sport.

Andrew Gram wrote:I'd do Rainier, North Cascades, Tetons, Tensleep, Devils Tower if you get lucky on weather, and then the Black Hills - cooler and much less driving.

Still, too much driving and not enough climbing, IMO.

Skip Rainier/Cascades/Tetons and drive straight to Ten Sleep. You need solid 2 weeks there to actually get a feel of that place. If you feel like it, you can do a side trip to Devil's Tower and sample out sport climbing at Spearfish and VC.

If I had a month off in July that's what I'd do, maybe a week in the Winds...

Oh, and you can climb in the summer in the Black - either on north-facing South Rim or start early or late on North Rim...

Sounds like you want to bag the best in the area.

In Washington:

Leavenworth: Snow Creek Wall, Outer Space is the line you are looking for.
Washington Pass: Liberty Bell, Liberty Crack if you can handle it, Amazing piece of rock...
Index: Can't speak to Index personally, but Godzilla gets the stars.

Hope that helps.

Jeff and pete thanks dudes I'll jump on em, yea we were scoping a lot of areas just to have options. I've done a lot of climbing road trips it's better to have a lot then have your heart set on a few and the weather crap on you, well realistically only get to 3/4 areas but I wanted to have route suggestions for each. Anyone know any 13a/bs I could jump on? I'd love to bag something hard this trip.

And doligo the point of this trip is to bag rainier, get on some more glacier stuff with our new dude. Staying pnw based waiting for the weather window.

Rainier is great, what route? Colman Demming? Other?

If you are going to have the gear for that, I would say scrap washintom Rock and do Mt Baker as well, honestly. In many ways I like Baker more than Rainier.

Index,.City Park, 13d. Don't know others, but that is one of the higher profile ones because hugh herr climbed it and Todd skinner I believe. Higher than what you want, but I don't climb anything in the thirteens and that is all I know.

Maybe Chain Reactor in Smith Rocks

There are a bunch of 12's and 13s in American Fork and Maple Canyons - 30 min and 90 min from SLC.

2.5 hrs Nortwest of SLC is City of Rocks. The Checkered Demon formation is home to several 12's and 13s as well. mountainproject.com/v/check…

Not a bad idea to try to get baker as well, pete I love that mountain.

Pnw based waiting for weather for ranier, climbing Leavenworth /smith and Squamish, leaving the 10th heading to ten sleep, rmnp and the needles. All other areas are back ups depending on the weather.

Enchantments do have a daily lottery for one permit per zone, mid week you can likely score one. Can't go wrong on the south side of Prusik:
mountainproject.com/v/prusi…

Good quality routes if you're not camping, or can only get a Stuart zone permit:
mountainproject.com/v/colch…

WA pass will get you an alpine feel with a whopping 40 minute approach, more climbing for your approach effort. NW Corner and NW face of NEWS are both fun and since you rap back to your bag you can leave lunch below:
mountainproject.com/v/north…

South face of SEWS is beautiful rock, I haven't climbed the routes on that side, but hear good things about all of them. Right in the grades you're looking for.

Come west to Index. Or if your fingers are sore and you feel like smearing Darrington has some of the best slab around.