BETA PHOTO: Routes on Colchuck Balanced Rock as of 09-2010
This rock has some of the best alpine rock I have ever climbed. But its still alpine, so there is always loose stuff.
From the Colchuck Lake, head up Aasgard pass until you are about 400 feet above the lake. Head left through dense bushes to the obvious gully leading up to Colchuck Balanced Rock.
Weather station 10.3 miles from here
11 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Colchuck Balanced Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Colchuck Balanced Rock:
The Tempest 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A2 Trad, Aid, 10 pitches
The Scoop 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'
West Face 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 9 pitches
Featured Route For Colchuck Balanced Rock
The Scoop 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WA
: Central-East Cascades, Wena...
: Colchuck Balanced Rock
Pitch 1 (5.9): a bouldery move off the ground leads to easier terrain, belay below a small rotting tree. (~100 ft.)Pitch 2 (5.10a): move into a grove where tough moves take you out and right where the climbing eases. (~100 ft.)Pitch 3 (5.10a): fun climbing moves up into a dihedral and the crux of the pitch. A short slab section leads to "Launch Ledge". Move the belay to the left about 30 feet before starting pitch 4.(~100 ft.)Pitch 4 (5.11c): "The Scoop" pitch begins with a nice crack leading in...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Aug 7, 2006
This route is total carnage. Sooo good, but the pitches are HARD, and the approach is exhausting bushwhacking if you do it wrong. It's not rated like Squamish or the valley - way stiffer. The "5.8" chimney above the 5.12 "crux" is so much harder than anything on the route.
But it is worth doing if only for the long 5.11 dihedral (11b/c?). No stopper moves, but zero rests for 190 feet of tight hands in a steep corner. Spectacular.
Bring a 3.5 Camalot, 1 #3 (two might be nice, though not necessary), 3 #2s and doubles below that. YOu gotta build anchors, so while this seems like a lot of gear, the pitches are long and the anchors eat up gear.
By Sol Wertkin
Aug 28, 2009
Hey Jonah i think your comments may be misguiding people. The long corner goes at 10+/11- and is only 110ft long. The crux above the roof traverse pitch is 11c (not 12a) and the trail is cleared and cairned for the most part.