BETA PHOTO: Routes on Colchuck Balanced Rock as of 09-2010
This rock has some of the best alpine rock I have ever climbed. But its still alpine, so there is always loose stuff.
From the Colchuck Lake, head up Aasgard pass until you are about 400 feet above the lake. Head left through dense bushes to the obvious gully leading up to Colchuck Balanced Rock.
Weather station 10.3 miles from here
11 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Colchuck Balanced Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Colchuck Balanced Rock:
The Tempest 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A2 Trad, Aid, 10 pitches
The Scoop 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'
West Face 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 9 pitches
Featured Route For Colchuck Balanced Rock
Rikki Tikki Tavi 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WA
: Central-East Cascades, Wena...
: Colchuck Balanced Rock
P1- Start at lowest point of rock on wall. Climb grooves to splitter layback corner at mostly 5.10 with a 5.11 move in there. Excellent move at the top. Belay from tree.P2- Climb slightly dirty cracks to large, obvious California ledge. 5.9From the California Ledge, you have 2 options-Option 1- climb from under the amazing black roof with the large white swath through it. Hand traverse out and pull the lip, following undulating hands, wide hands and fists seemingly forever. Belay at tree. This i...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Aug 7, 2006
This route is total carnage. Sooo good, but the pitches are HARD, and the approach is exhausting bushwhacking if you do it wrong. It's not rated like Squamish or the valley - way stiffer. The "5.8" chimney above the 5.12 "crux" is so much harder than anything on the route.
But it is worth doing if only for the long 5.11 dihedral (11b/c?). No stopper moves, but zero rests for 190 feet of tight hands in a steep corner. Spectacular.
Bring a 3.5 Camalot, 1 #3 (two might be nice, though not necessary), 3 #2s and doubles below that. YOu gotta build anchors, so while this seems like a lot of gear, the pitches are long and the anchors eat up gear.
By Sol Wertkin
Aug 28, 2009
Hey Jonah i think your comments may be misguiding people. The long corner goes at 10+/11- and is only 110ft long. The crux above the roof traverse pitch is 11c (not 12a) and the trail is cleared and cairned for the most part.