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Colchuck Balanced Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Accendo Lunae(Let It Burn/West Face Var.) T 
Colchuck Balanced Rock Col (East Lake Side Approch) T 
Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version) T 
Leche La Vaca T 
Let it Burn T,S 
Milk n' Honey T 
Rikki Tikki Tavi T 
Scarface T 
Scoop, The T 
Tempest, The T 
West Face T 

Colchuck Balanced Rock  


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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on Colchuck Balanced Rock as of 09-2010

Description 

This rock has some of the best alpine rock I have ever climbed. But its still alpine, so there is always loose stuff.

Getting There 

From the Colchuck Lake, head up Aasgard pass until you are about 400 feet above the lake. Head left through dense bushes to the obvious gully leading up to Colchuck Balanced Rock.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.3 miles from here

11 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',3],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Colchuck Balanced Rock:
Leche La Vaca   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches   
The Tempest   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2     Trad, Aid, 10 pitches   
The Scoop   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'   
West Face   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 9 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Colchuck Balanced Rock

Featured Route For Colchuck Balanced Rock
The Tempest <br />IV - 5.10 - A2 <br /> <br />

The Tempest 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2  WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Colchuck Balanced Rock
This route tackles the wall to the right of the prominent corner, which houses the West Face. Start ~200' right of the obvious corner which is the 'West Face'We did a mix of aid and free climbing on the first ascent, with occasional storms and copious wetness. The route saw its (First?) free ascent in August 2010, when Ben Gilkison and Drew Philbin teamed up to go base to summit, no falls, placing protection as they climbed. P1) Follow cracks and corner past a small tree, up right to a ledge to...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

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By jonah
Aug 7, 2006
This route is total carnage. Sooo good, but the pitches are HARD, and the approach is exhausting bushwhacking if you do it wrong. It's not rated like Squamish or the valley - way stiffer. The "5.8" chimney above the 5.12 "crux" is so much harder than anything on the route.

But it is worth doing if only for the long 5.11 dihedral (11b/c?). No stopper moves, but zero rests for 190 feet of tight hands in a steep corner. Spectacular.

Bring a 3.5 Camalot, 1 #3 (two might be nice, though not necessary), 3 #2s and doubles below that. YOu gotta build anchors, so while this seems like a lot of gear, the pitches are long and the anchors eat up gear.
By Sol Wertkin
Aug 28, 2009
Hey Jonah i think your comments may be misguiding people. The long corner goes at 10+/11- and is only 110ft long. The crux above the roof traverse pitch is 11c (not 12a) and the trail is cleared and cairned for the most part.