Colchuck Balanced Rock Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Routes on Colchuck Balanced Rock as of 09-2010
This rock has some of the best alpine rock I have ever climbed. But its still alpine, so there is always loose stuff.
From the Colchuck Lake, head up Aasgard pass until you are about 400 feet above the lake. Head left through dense bushes to the obvious gully leading up to Colchuck Balanced Rock.
Weather station 11.6 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Colchuck Balanced Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Colchuck Balanced Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Colchuck Balanced Rock:
The Scoop 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'
West Face 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 9 pitches
Let it Burn 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 1200'
The Tempest 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
C0 Trad, Aid, 6 pitches
Featured Route For Colchuck Balanced Rock
West Face 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a WA
: Central-East Cascades, Wena...
: ... : Colchuck Balanced Rock
This is possibly one of the best free routes around in a spectactular setting staring straight at Mt. Stuart.I would recommend roping up for the initial scramble to reach the base of the climb. It is easy, but very loose.P1 Fun but short finger crack(10+). P2 Easy chimney (5.7). P3 Long corner to a nice belay (5.9). P4 Easy pitch up to the base of a clean dihedral. P5 This pitch is a great long hand crack that is often wet, but it is still not that bad when wet (11a). P6 Start out with some...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
Aug 7, 2006
This route is total carnage. Sooo good, but the pitches are HARD, and the approach is exhausting bushwhacking if you do it wrong. It's not rated like Squamish or the valley - way stiffer. The "5.8" chimney above the 5.12 "crux" is so much harder than anything on the route.
But it is worth doing if only for the long 5.11 dihedral (11b/c?). No stopper moves, but zero rests for 190 feet of tight hands in a steep corner. Spectacular.
Bring a 3.5 Camalot, 1 #3 (two might be nice, though not necessary), 3 #2s and doubles below that. YOu gotta build anchors, so while this seems like a lot of gear, the pitches are long and the anchors eat up gear.
By Sol Wertkin
From: Leavenworth, Washington
Aug 28, 2009
Hey Jonah i think your comments may be misguiding people. The long corner goes at 10+/11- and is only 110ft long. The crux above the roof traverse pitch is 11c (not 12a) and the trail is cleared and cairned for the most part.