Prusik Peak Rock Climbing
Prussik Peak. Photo by Blitzo.
This granite pyramid is not the largest piece of rock but its unusually solid rock is home to some of the cascades best alpine rock routes. Accomanied by a beautiful lake this peak has everything from the beginner to the burlified alpinist. While popular on weekends you can find the entire peak to yourself at times.
Look for booty neutrinos while your there.
Approach Prusik Peak via Snow Lakes Trail or Colchuck and Stuart lakes Trail. Both Trailheads require USFS parking permits and camping is by permit only between June 15 - Oct 15. Acquire permits at the Leavenworth Ranger Station.
For Snow Lakes approach:
Follow Icicle Rd. 4.3 miles to the Snow Creek Trail Head parking lot on the left. Follow the trail out of the parking lot past the billboard and over the creek. This trail will take you past Nada and Snow Lakes and put you at Lake Vivianne, looking directly at the south face of Prusik Peak, in about 10 miles with 5,000+ft elevation gain. Once at Lake Vivianne, follow trails up and right to Temple Lake and continue up climbers paths through boulders to the base of Prusik Peak for south face routes or hike to Prusik Pass to climb West Ridge route.
For Colchuck/Stuart Lakes approach:
Follow Icicle Rd. about 8.5 miles to Bridge Creek Campground. Find FS road 7601 at the far west end of the campground and follow it until you reach the Stuart Lake Trailhead. Hike the trail for 2.5 miles and take an obvious left leading to Colchuck lake. Once at the lake, boulder hop to the south end of the lake, passing underneath Colchuck and Dragontail Peaks, heading for Aasgard pass to the left of Dragontail. Follow Aasgard to its top on a well maintained trail. From the top continue on the Upper Enchantments trail until Prusik Peak is visible and choose whether to approach via Prusik Pass or Lake Vivianne.
Note: Approach from Snow Lakes tacks on an additional, approximate 2 miles and 1000ft of elevation gain, but is much more gradual and consistent. I.e. Aasgard pass gains 2.2k ft elevation in .8 miles. Snow lakes trail is also much more shaded on hot, sunny approach days.
Weather station 10.5 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Prusik Peak
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Prusik Peak
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Prusik Peak:
West Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'
Solid Gold 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 450'
Der Sportsman 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'
Featured Route For Prusik Peak
Stanley-Burgner Route 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WA
: Central-East Cascades, Wena...
: ... : Prusik Peak
This is one of the finest alpine routes you may ever experience. The climbing is sustained, varied, and amazing. Burgner-Stanley is a direct and obvious route visible from the ground on superb rock with high quality pitches. Pitches 1-2 and 3-4 can be linked into c. 180-ft pitches, easily. P1: Climb either a 5.6/5.7 chimney or a 5.8 wide crack to the left of the chimney to gain low fifth class terrain with trees. P2: Scramble up to the last tallest tree, facing a knobbed wall with a thin crack ...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
Sep 14, 2006
A very beautiful place!
From: Las Vegas
Aug 4, 2008
It's actually Prusik.
Aug 23, 2009
"Climb up Icicle canyon passing several lakes. Eventually take a trail heading up on the right (north) side of the canyon"
I hope no one comes to this site for an approach or route description.
Jul 9, 2010
The approach for this area is decidedly non-trivial, either direction. Unless you're going very fast-and-light, plan on a full day's hike just to approach. Weather can also be a big consideration and can call for other gear (like ice axes for Aasgard and for the traverse off the north face snowfield).
For the approaches, a map is really valuable:
You can pick these up in paper form in Leavenworth @ either climbing shop.
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 19, 2015
Who dropped a LaSportiva approach shoe at the base of Prusik Peak? I found it on Sunday 18th October, and looked around for the other shoe and instead found three Black Diamond micro stoppers.
By Jayson Nissen
From: Corvallis, OR
Jul 22, 2016
While the approach from Snow Lakes adds to the overall distance, I found it to be much easier to get a snow lakes permit than a core permit. The first day we did the lottery for a permit no one initially bid on the snow lakes zone and almost everyone went for Colchuk or Core. The second time the same thing happened and we were the only ones to say Snow Lakes so we got it. The setting is fantastic, the rock is great, and the Burgner-Stanley was awesome. I hope to go back for more.