Overhanging Jugs

Are there any routes on the front range that are just overhanging jugs for days, in the 5.10 or less range?

I really want to be upside down, but I'm not skilled enough for the overhanging crimps and slopers. But I love the feeling of being upside down. At the very least I have goal, but I'm looking for some immediate gratification.

Are you looking for sport or trad climbs?

It sounds like trad.

LawHous wrote:Are you looking for sport or trad climbs?

I think the answer is pretty much "no" either way.
I think he's looking for Red River Gorge...

The Flatirons, Dinosaur Mountain to be more exact. Vertical to overhanging 5.7 to 5.10 aplenty.

Eric Klammer wrote:The Flatirons, Dinosaur Mountain to be more exact. Vertical to overhanging 5.7 to 5.10 aplenty.

The dude said:
"Are there any routes on the front range that are just overhanging jugs for days, ... I really want to be upside down..."

Which routes are you thinking of like that? I can't think of any such on Dino Mt.

Thanks for the replies. I shall investigate.

I'll be in Nashville in a few weeks, maybe I could swing through RRG.

Oh and either sport or trad. But I prefer trad.

Sounds like you should check out the Tennessee Wall

Sounds like you need to go to Obed.

Nashville? Sounds like good AC is what's needed.

steep with jugs for days. Only 5.8

Tony B wrote: Which routes are you thinking of like that? I can't think of any such on Dino Mt.

steep with jugs. Not 5.8, but feels like it.

Does this route fit your description?

mountainproject.com/v/10700…

Mike Belu wrote:Does this route fit your description? mountainproject.com/v/10700…

She could could have a no-hands no foot rest I'm sure.

If you're in Nashville, Foster Falls (1.5 hr drive) will give you some decent overhangs.

But Obed/Clear Creek (as Dave T pointed out) is where the severe overhanging jugs are in TN. It's about a 2.5 hr drive and well worth it. The money climb here for overhanging jugs is in Stephen King's library in the South Clear Creek area.

Climb the softly graded and overprotected "Pet Cemetery". Take a long rest . . . and then start moving out "Rage".

Rage is a completely horizontal roof for about 25ft, massive jugs, bat hang rest, fixed draws, fun moves that goes 5.11 until you get close to the lip. This is where the 5.12 stuff comes in.

mountainproject.com/v/rage/…

You may fall off into space, but you'll be grinning from ear to ear.

Eliot Augusto wrote:Are there any routes on the front range that are just overhanging jugs for days, in the 5.10 or less range?

Mark Roth wrote: Touch Monkey steep with jugs. Not 5.8, but feels like it.

Well, what's 4 letter grades, give or take a few? Your Mother, (W Face of the Bastille) is really steep too. It's 5.12c, but you know... whatever.

Seriously, Touch Monkey is 20' of steep. April Fools (11b/c) or the S Crack on the Maiden (11a) are steeper for longer... but still not 5.10.

basically none of these FR suggested climbs are really 'upside down' climbing though, but just off vertical climbing.

i'm drawing kind of a blank for steep, consistent, juggy climbing in this range. there are routes here and there that have short sections, but not a lot that are big pumping affairs.

the only one that really comes to mind is that steep 10d at the monkey house in clear creek.

Yeah - at sub 5.10, the best you can hope for is about a body length of roof or a brief steep (overhanging) section.

Futile Laments looks awesome. Thanks Tony B.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/dad-speaks-parley/106184232

Visit the Gunks one time and you'll be very happy!

Clint Hager 1 wrote:http://www.mountainproject.com/v/dad-speaks-parley/106184232

Oh man. I'll have to buy a hanger just in case. That route looks awesome.