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Best Cathedral link-ups

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Lee Hansche · · Allenstown, NH... and a van… · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 24,355

Link-ups are such a huge part of climbing at Cathedral Ledge that it seems like you can't do much climbing there with out thinking of how to link things for consistent difficulty, a good warm up or cool down, how to get to the route you really have in mind etc... Certain link-ups have almost become expected links like Funhouse to Upper Refuse or Bombardment to Blacklung... There are great full length routes to be had but set those aside and share your favorite link-ups...

a few choice pics for me would be:
Bombardment to Blacklung to Final Gesture 5.8 (Great consistant 5.8)
Recompense to the Beastflake to the last pitch of The Prow 5.10a
Ventalator to The Book of Solemnity 5.10b (calf burner slabs)

rdlennon · · New Hampshire · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 2,210

I really like Three Birches to Retaliation, as they both follow right-leaning crack systems and feel like a consistent, sustained route. I also like Toe Crack to Thin Air to Pine Tree; really gives your hands a beating.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

The best link-up on the crag is the r-l girdle traverse- BigPlumb. This is a great climb 28 ? pitches and wow variety. We did it in a day and were wiped out ! You can easily rap off around Pendulum or Intimidation though and complete it next day- still a great adventure.

john

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,256

How about Saigon to Camber to Reverse Camber?

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Windfall- Airation- Reach the Sky

Lee Hansche · · Allenstown, NH... and a van… · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 24,355

All good stuff...
Another one i like is, Windfall-Missing Link and then Airation or Pine Tree depending on how you held up till then...

Lee Hansche · · Allenstown, NH... and a van… · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 24,355

I thought more people would be in to this thread... oh well i like it so ill post another that i did the other day...

Freedom (or Windfall) in to turners flake (then in to Missing link)... Basicly i like the cruxes of the 5.10's Freedom and Windfall but the top is not as fun for me... I love Turners Flake but always end up getting rope drag doing the whole thing... so you do the 5.10 start of your choice in to Turners Flake's crux second half with little drag... fun...

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,256

I have a link-up: Start the day at Cathedral Ledge, then head over to Rumney for the afternoon burn.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

The best link-up is the BIG PLUM 1,000m 5.11a- start on Recluse and finish on Nutcracker

nhclimber · · Newmarket, NH · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,345

1st pitch of intimadation, 2nd pitch of bicycle, 3rd pitch of antline, off the antline ledge back into intimadation for the last 2 pitches. .10b, .11a, .9, .9, .5
Classic fun and a good alternative if you have done intimadation a few times.

nhclimber · · Newmarket, NH · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,345

I almost forgot this one. First and second pitches of Pendulum, start up the third and keep right and head into the 3rd pitch chimney of lights in the forest (uber classic). Then traverse left from the belay to the bridge of kazid dum (sp)and one more traverse till under the pendulum roof, protect and down climb the slab to the sidewalk ledge. I rapped off after, the pedulum roof is a bit much for me, but if you're strong punch it to the top.
5.8, 10b, 5.9, 5.8, 5.8-rap

Lee Hansche · · Allenstown, NH... and a van… · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 24,355

wow that sounds like a good one...

Josh Squire · · East Boston, MA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 66

I wish I have done more but here's couple I have done:

Hotter than Hell to Inferno to Cosmic Amazement.
Thin Air to Pine Tree

Josh

E thatcher · · Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 915

It's a pretty popular one, but bombardment to The book of solemnity to little feet is a fun link up. Did it for the first time saturday morning and had a blast

Lee Hansche · · Allenstown, NH... and a van… · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 24,355
E thatcher wrote:It's a pretty popular one, but bombardment to The book of solemnity to little feet is a fun link up.

Nice thats a fun one... if you want a consistant 5.10 that follows the same general line and you can climb The Book's crux slab pretty well you could start on Ventalator (a little spicy to the first bolt but no harder than The Book), then The Book, and finish on the Prow Finish 5.10a...

E thatcher · · Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 915
Jay Knower wrote:I have a link-up: Start the day at Cathedral Ledge, then head over to Rumney for the afternoon burn.

Did this today except started on the south buttress. It is indeed a good link up.

And Lee. that consistent .10 link up you mention looks cool, may have to give that a try next time.

Lee Hansche · · Allenstown, NH... and a van… · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 24,355

nice... let us know how it goes...

Anna Condino · · Fall City, WA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 70

I really like doing Bombardment or Three Birches to anything on the Barber Wall (usually Chicken Delight or Double Vee for me).

Also the Saigons to Pine Tree Eliminate can be fun, excepting the little traverse at the top of the Saigons.

The first two pitches of Standard Route - including Toe Crack - and then over to Thin Air is cool, too. Finish up on Pine Tree or Airation.

nhclimber · · Newmarket, NH · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,345

I had done this before but did it again this weekend, 1st pitch of 3 birches. Then at the dead tree break hard left into the upper finger crack on starfire. The crack is easy (.9) but the moves getting into it are a little bit tenuous.

Lee Hansche · · Allenstown, NH... and a van… · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 24,355

i never thought of linking to it but ive always wanted to do the starfire crack...

Adam Wilcox · · Candia, NH · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 291

Did Funhouse to Black Lung to Upper Refuse to Lookout Crack today. It made for a pretty much constant increase in difficulty (except for the Upper Refuse part). Fun!

Also, I hear you can link up the first pitch of Starfire, at 5.8, with the second pitch of Bombardment. This gives you a more consistent climb and lets you avoid the runout on Pleasant Street. Yet another climb on the list to check out.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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