Explore this area in 3D
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 686 ft 209 m
GPS: 32.82474, -117.05063
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 139 total · 16/month
Shared By: Cletus R on Jun 17, 2025
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Page Updates (admin only)

Description Suggest change

This is the leftmost set of crags in Middle Earth, called in at least one guidebook "New Middle Earth".  They are a little bit separate from the complicated main Middle Earth formation.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Climber's Loop Trail, go to Caradhras in Middle Earth Canyon.  When looking at that climb, contour left on a good trail until reaching the rightmost end of this crag, where you will find Fool's Gold.  Trail continues along the base of the crag.

10 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Middle Earth Left Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Earth Left

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
● Fangorn Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 72
● Fool's Gold
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
● Straight Out of Sitka
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 53
● Lord of the Rings
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
● Clairemont Calling
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
● Grandpa's Dihedral
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
● Art Imitates Life
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Fangorn Crack
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Fool's Gold
 72
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Straight Out of Sitka
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
● Lord of the Rings
 53
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Clairemont Calling
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
● Grandpa's Dihedral
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
● Art Imitates Life
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Middle Earth Left »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Sun Angles Details:
Sun Details Unknown. Know About It?

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
 Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Add New Photo Drop down
Photos

Lord of the Rings - full route
Lord of the Rings - full route
 1

0 Comments