All Locations > International > Europe > Sweden > Kullaberg > N Coast

Vattenhjulet Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Vattenhjulet

L › R R › L A › Z

	Gris i Maskineriet (Pig in the Machinery) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Kull Wahad T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Oligmal (Oddball) T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Ring, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Zombie T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	51 ft	16 m
GPS:	56.30311, 12.45394 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	169 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Ian M on May 2, 2023
Admins:	Michael Sullivan, Ian M, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Access to the north coast between Skårenäs to Blå Mal, and Djupadal to Valdemarsgrotten, is prohibited from March 1st to July 15th due to bird protection. Details

Kullaberg is a nature reserve. Access to the north coast between Skårenäs to Blå Mal, and Djupadal to Valdemarsgrotten, is prohibited from March 1st to July 15th due to bird protection. The protected areas extend 200 meters inland and 50 meters out to sea. Also use extra care accessing neighboring areas. Camping in the reserve is prohibited except at the designated site by the light house parking lot (8 tents maximum). For more information see Regulations here:
lansstyrelsen.se/skane/beso…

Description

Shady east-facing wall beside a beautiful sea cove. Trad venue with one sport route. Routes begin from ledge near base, or start from slimy rocks at bottom of cove for the full experience. Rock quality on wall itself is excellent with good jams and edges, however there is considerable loose rock in area above it. Despite its short approach this area is not heavily used, probably because of the exposed path and necessity to rap in.

Getting There

Park in large lot before road ends at the light house. Follow road from parking toward the light house (west) about 200 m then right (north) at the "Dangerous Precipice" sign. Take right fork (northeast) up and over the hill. Rap from large pine tree to base (30 m, extend over edge, beware of loose rock) or follow steep and exposed path down and right (east) to bolted anchor at top of the wall and rap to base (15 m) from there - be careful not to throw your rope into the sea!