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Elevation: 325 ft
GPS: 56.29428, 12.48878
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Shared By: Ian M on Jul 2, 2018
Admins: Michael Sullivan, Gunkswest, Ian M
Warning Access Issue: Access to the north coast between Skårenäs to Blå Mal, and Djupadal to Valdemarsgrotten, is prohibited from March 1st to July 15th due to bird protection. DetailsDrop down

Kullaberg Suggest change

Kullaberg is a beautiful nature reserve on a striking peninsula in Skåne (Scania) county in southwestern Sweden. It's about a half-hour drive north of Helsingborg, 2 hours north of Copenhagen, or 2.5 hours south of Gothenburg. The area is home to a number of crags, many of them sea-cliffs. Although primarily a trad venue with a few bolted anchors, it also features several sport routes in the harder grades. The most popular and sunny crags are situated on the southern coast of the peninsula. The north-coast crags typically have steeper approaches, more variable rock quality, better summer shade and nicer swimming options. The rock, often excellent but sometimes crumbly, is primarily composed of 1.7 billion-year-old gneiss (high grade metamorphic granite) laced with streaks of reddish brown "kullaite" (feldspars and chloritized mafic minerals, occasionally with calcite or quartz inclusions). See kullabergsnatur.se/En/Pages… for an overview. 

The small harbor town of Mölle, on the way into the reserve and 4 km east of the Kullaberg light house, offers a few restaurants - be sure to check out the pizzas at Krukmakeri. More eateries, a brewery and well-stocked grocery stores lie just a little further away in Nyhamnsläge and Höganäs. Hotels and vacation rentals are available in Mölle and nearby towns. Camping in Kullaberg is prohibited except at a designated site by the light house parking lot (8 tents maximum). There is a commercial campground just south of Mölle.

Kullaberg is a great place to get in some climbing if you in the Copenhagen/Malmö area. If you are short on time have a look at Åkersberget - one of the easier crags to locate and climb - on the south coast near the light house. 

Additional information can be found here:

THE guidebook: "Klättring på Kullaberg", H. Bohlin, M. Jakobsson and F. Rapp (Mud Max AB, 2014)

http://www.sverigeforaren.se/kullaberg  (in Swedish)

http://rockclimbing.dk/region/kullen   (in Danish - note: route numbers and text may not match)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10684

https://27crags.com/crags/kullaberg

Getting There Suggest change

Drive to Mölle (40 km north of Helsingborg), continue west through town and into the Kullaberg nature reserve. Park in any designated lot for free - parking elsewhere can incur a 600 SEK (~60€) fine! Or take a train to Helsingborg, bus to Mölle, and bus to the lighthouse (or walk the last 2 km). Most crags can be reached with a short (<500 m) approach on good trails from parking, although some require a longer and steeper descent to reach the bases of the sea-cliffs. A boat may be helpful in some cases.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kullaberg

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Svenskerruten
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Svenskerruten S Coast > Carstens Ränne > Upper Wall
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
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