All Locations > Massachusetts > Central, MA > Douglas State Forest

Far North Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Far North

Mark's Wall 3 / 0 / 3 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

Marsh Caves, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17

Pipeline Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Ridge Trail Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Toprope Walls 7 / 0 / 9 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

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Elevation:	615 ft	187 m
GPS:	42.07832, -71.7871 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	366 total · 14/month
Shared By:	Trevor Mungeam on Mar 11, 2023
Admins:	Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Here is home to the bulk of roped climbing in Douglas State Forest as well as some of the best hard bouldering, too! The Far North consists of a few separate crags, all accessed via the same parking area at the gate of Ridge Trail. Some of my top picks include: Exodus, V6/7; Paper Tiger, 5.10b/V2; Portmanteau, V8/9; Ed's Route Direct, 5.9+; Diagon Alley, V3; Poltergeist, V5; Deadcrush, V3; Unknown, 5.10d; and Convalescence, 5.7.

Getting There

The main parking area can be found via Northwest Main Street in Douglas. Turn south onto Ridge Trail (dirt road). Drive down the dirt road for just under a half mile until it terminates at a parking area by a gate. You've made it. Directions for each of the subareas can be found under their respective pages.

53 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Far North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V3 6A 4 ● Diagon Alley Boulder Marsh Caves
V6 7A 8 ● Exodus Boulder Marsh Caves
V8-9 7B+ 4 ● Portmanteau Boulder Marsh Caves
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 4 ● Tit for Tat Trad, TR Toprope Walls > Lawnmower Wall