Stevens Point Slab Rock Climbing
SouthEast exposed slab, 15 +/- minutes from Hogan road.
At least 3 routes, two of which have FA-s by Paul Cormier and have double bolt mid-cliff anchors. From the location of bolts not installed by Paul it is reasonable to conclude there are at least 2 other routes established here, one of which we Top Roped the top part thereof.
For Stevens Point Slab, or crags right (East) of Stevens Point, use the Hogan road access. Drive East ( a Right Turn) on Rt 2 from where Rt 16 comes into Gorham from Pinkham Notch, and take a left on North Road, ( 3.3 Mi East of Gorham) and in 1/2 mile turn Left onto the dirt Hogan Road. The quality of this road varies with the amount of rainfall and run-off. Generally, even if in good condition you'll be happier with a high clearance SUV or pickup truck. This road is used by a number of people, most importantly the dam keepers for the two dams upstream so if you do use it be sure to park so as not to block the road or turn-arounds. This is the preferred access to the Steven’s Point area.
Set your odometer to 0.0 at the start of Hogan road. The two big puddles you will probably encounter in the first 1/4 mile are usually best "run" on the right. They have "good bottom" ( i.e. gravel, not mud)
Park 1.8 miles in on Hogan Road, on the left where the road widens. ( photo) Look for a cairn on the other side of the road. Walk at a slight angle to the right for 40-50 ft and pass a permanent puddle on your left, move back left 10 ft then straight towards the crag. About 100 +/- ft come to a larger body of water and cross it on an land bridge just right of a 3 ft high boulder. ( photo) ( You really do want to cross here! ) After climbing the steep bank on the other side, climb steeply up the slope 15 +/- min to the base of the slab. If, after climbing the steep bank, you move left then back right you’ll encounter fewer talus boulders.
For me, I first became aware of Hogan road as a biking experience. A few trips in 2014-16 provided beautiful views of the northern Presidentials and of the rapids, dams, and reflecting pool of the Androscoggin river. The pull out and road widening at 2.0 miles “ in” happened to provide a tantalizing view of a slab on Steven’s Point.
I think it was the summer of 2017 I finally parked my bike behind a tree and hiked up to the slab. Assessment: Mmmmm…not all that good but maybe a place to visit with gear. Upon reflection it seems I intercepted the slab at its far left area and that part of the slab is less attractive than the middle and right side. BUT….
Then came the thunderstorm of Oct. 2017. This storm dropped more rain north of the Presidentials, in a shorter period of time, than even Hurricane Irene 5 years earlier. Culverts and bridges all along Hogan Road were totally washed out. ( The roads into North Bald Cap were also devastated.) The culvert at 0.9 miles was completely washed out and the culvert itself pushed 30 ft down; the side road that comes in at 2.3 miles on the right became a river itself and flowed skier’s right down Hogan Road. ( Which is why, to this day, this section remains the worst piece of Hogan Road.)
Paul Cormier is looking in his notes as to when he first explored this crag. But I would say it is either before Oct 2017 or after 2019-20 when the road was finally repaired enough to allow access by car to Steven’s Point.
Clearly, however, the bolts on the slab are indicative of even earlier ascents than Paul’s foray in the late 20-teens. The sling on the big pine tree at the top of “ climb 3 “ was old enough to have bee stretched by the growth of the tree and looked, to me, to be at least 8-10 years old. Paul may have more info on who this/these earlier climber(s) may have been.
Days w Precip