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Storm Dome Rock Climbing
Routes in Storm Dome
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Dead Reckoning T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Heart of Diamond T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Milwaukee's Best T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Pika Paradise T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
| Elevation: | 8,674 ft | 2,644 m |
| GPS: |
45.12514, -115.91204 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 2,292 total · 76/month | |
| Shared By: | michalm on Sep 16, 2022 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Description
In an area best known for fly-fishing, water sports, and low-angle slabs, this wall is one of the best-kept secrets in Idaho. Storm Dome has a sheer, 800' tall, NE-facing granite face that holds more potential for top quality 5.12 and 5.13 routes than any other wall in the state.
This wall is as sustained as any in the lower 48, if a bit shorter than some. There have been several attempts over the years, but a route on this face didn't get climbed to the top until September 2021.
I have been reluctant to post this area because it is so special to me, but the climbing is too good not to share with you.
Please contact me if you're interested in visiting or want more beta. I'm willing to share information to help you make the most of your trip.
This is a sensitive alpine zone with very high biodiversity. It is the home of pikas, martens, marmots, wolverines, toads, salamanders, hummingbirds, hawks, and butterflies. We are just visitors in their home.
Please act with the utmost respect and practice Leave No Trace principles when you visit.
That means: pack out all waste, including human waste. Use wag bags, use only biodegradable soap, and minimize impact to the pristine alpine meadow.
Please protect and preserve Storm Peak Lake. Don't poop in this drainage. It is the only source of drinking water in the area, and is the home of fish, toads, and numerous aquatic species.
The lake is a great place to go for a swim while you're waiting for the wall to go into the shade. Enjoy it!
The whole area is recovering from a large fire that burnt most of the large trees in the 1990s. Please limit campfires, put them out before going to sleep, and never harm any live vegetation.
Here's a post on Cascade Climbers by Duncan with a photo dump and an interesting discussion about what makes Storm Dome so sustained and diverse in movement.
American Alpine Journal writeup for Milwaukee's Best and Heart of Diamond.
Getting There
From McCall, ID, drive ½ hour north on Warren Wagon Road to Twenty Mile Lakes Trailhead on the right side of the road. The trailhead is a great place to spend the night if you get here late.
Hike for 2.7 miles up Twenty Mile Lakes trail and stay left at the fork toward Twenty Mile Lakes. The correct trail will switchback up a steep hill.
Go up a sometimes steep trail through alpine meadows and burnt forest until you get to the first of the Twenty Mile Lakes. Stay to the right of the lake on a trail until you get to a ridge. Cut left and stay on top of the ridge, weaving between deadfall until you get to East Lake.
Right before East Lake, cut left through the past of least bushwhacking and go directly up the hill to the saddle between Storm Peak and Storm Dome. The best path follows steep meadows and avoids most boulder-hopping. When you are just below the saddle, look to your right for the least scrambly path to traverse toward Storm Dome away from Storm Peak. You are aiming for the 2nd notch away from Storm Dome. This notch is marked with a large cairn.
From the cairn, admire the stunning wall to your right, then drop directly down the steep gully to a steep grassy rampy. It is slippery and sometimes loose with a few scrambly bits. The approach is doable in trail runners. Trekking poles are recommended to descend if you have a heavy pack (which you will).
When you emerge from the grassy ramp, either go 800-1000’ directly down the talus field to the meadow by the lake or trend right on grassy ramps to just below the wall where you can descend to the meadow. Be careful! The vegetation is surprisingly slippery here.
Find a comfortable, flat spot in the meadow and pitch camp. Make sure to hang your pack and anything salty when you’re away to protect it from the hungry local residents.
Classic Climbing Routes at Storm Dome
Sun & Shade
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Photos
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