Milwaukee's Best

This is the route that started it all. Established ground-up over the course of several trips, Milwaukee’s Best was the first route to the top of the wall and (with variations) the first ascent of Storm Dome's NE face.

Milwaukee's Best climbs the left side of the wall following obvious features with excellent climbing and numerous cruxes. Although there are brief sections of crack climbing, it is the exception rather than the norm. Expect amazing face and corner climbing with diverse features, mostly very solid rock, and punchy cruxes.

P1: 9+ Trad Dad Slab. 2 bolts and a thin hands piece

P2: 12- Hi Koala Tea Warmup ***. (right variation, recommended) Amazing thin face climbing to a sporty roof traverse. Hard moves begin right off the belay with several cruxes on the pitch. 9ish bolts and an optional finger-size piece or two. Bring lots of slings to minimize rope drag. Short climbers might want a Kong panic draw for the first clip.

P2 var: 11- Weenie Way *. (left variation, not as good) Easy ramp and flake climbing to a brief crux up high. Bolts and singles to #1 with plenty of slings.

P3. 12 Dike Vision ***. 4 bolts and gear to #1. Climb fingers in a corner to a strenuous undercling flake. Pull a stout boulder problem at a bolt into a hanging corner and over a small roof. Catch your breath and quest up the amazing hanging arête and tufa dike until the holds run out, then traverse left and up to the belay. This upper face was originally bolted on lead by Zach with only 2 bolts. You'll be glad we added a third!

P4. low 5th Walk the loose ledge left past an anchor, then climb easy but unprotected moves up to the belay at the base of a hanging golden corner. Please stay roped up for this "pitch" due to questionable rock.

P5. 11+ Golden Traverse ***. Bolts and the whole rack from 00. Climb the amazing hanging corner past bolts and gear to a leaning crack that ends at a stance with a bolt. Clip the bolt with a sling and pull a final, reachy crux past a higher bolt. Punch it to one last bolt that you clip with a sling, then traverse right to an easier crack that leads to the anchor.

P6. 10 Blue Collar Pitch. Bring the whole rack. Climb the gritty flake and crack system to a short left-facing corner with a tiny tree. Pull clean crux moves up and left over a flake to the anchor. This is the worst pitch on the route.

P7. 11- Outer Space Traverse *. 3 bolts and Gear to #1 with extra tips and slings. Clip a low bolt and pull sporty moves off the belay. Place gear on slings where possible and make a wild and exposed traverse right to a foot rail and undercling flake system, followed by a finger crack traverse with unique holds to the belay.

P8. 12-/12 Meaner Leaner **. 3 bolts and a hand-sized piece or 2. Follow an easy flake to a small roof. Clip a bolt and pull a punchy boulder problem to a left-leaning rail/groove. Rest up and climb a difficult, technical boulder problem to the belay.

P9a. Red Pill (right variation) 12- **. Bolts and a small cam or two. Sling the traverse bolts. Traverse right off the belay and make steep, exposed, and sporty moves up to an undercling roof. Clip a bolt and pull a punchy crux up to runout but easier face climbing past 2 more bolts. Go right at the top up a small corner to the anchor.

P9b. Blue Pill (left variation) 12- *. 3 bolts and optional big fingers or thin hands piece. The original pitch to the top of the wall. Clip a bolt off the belay and make immediately difficult and slightly runout moves up and left past 2 more bolts and a technical seam and token crack move to the belay.

To descend, rap the route to an anchor midway across the P4 ledge, then lead over (roped up) to the top of P3. Continue rapping the route to the bottom of the wall.

Alternatively, scramble to the summit, walk off toward the shoulder between Storm Peak and Storm Dome, and drop down the notch back to camp.

Start on a clean, low-angle slab on the left side of the wall, looking for a high first bolt. 

The photo topo shows everything you need to know.

Bolts and gear. 70m rope to rap the route.

Singles from 00 to #2 C4. Totems recommended.

Doubles from tips to #0.5

12 draws with at least 4 extendables

All hardware is bomber stainless steel