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Elevation: 6,991 ft 2,131 m
GPS: 38.78417, -108.6758
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 16,662 total · 279/month
Shared By: Randall Chapman on Nov 9, 2021
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

Much of the base of Unaweep Canyon, along CO Hwy 141, is private property. However, there are a few places where public land meets the road giving access to some of the cliffs and the public land surrounding the canyon. One of these places is the northern border of the Uncompahgre National Forest that drops into the canyon just west of the Unaweep Divide. CO Hwy 141 crosses a small corner of this national forest, where there is a parking area and trailhead for the Wildcat #640 Trail. The Wildcat Trail leads to the top of the Uncompahgre Plateau and meets up with Thimble Point Road. It's a strenuous 6 mile out and back hike if you go all the way to the road, but from this trail, the cliffs of the Wildcat Climbing Area can be accessed.

The Wildcat Climbing Area consists of several granite outcrops that offer a variety of climbs in almost every range and style. At this point, we have focused on the northernmost block we are calling “Wildcat One”. We do have routes on several of the other blocks, but they are not ready to share yet (i.e. they are not safe to climb yet). Some others have also put up routes in this area, and these can be found on Mountain Project under an area named Music Mountain. There are currently 32 routes here ranging from 5.2-5.11, and while most of the routes are mixed lines, there are several pure trad lines and a couple of pure sport. Development at Wildcat One was done with kids and beginners in mind, but with that said there is still some potential for rockfall here, so small children should be kept back from the cliff, and helmets should be worn at all times.

This is a new area, and the routes here are still a little dirty. We did our best to clean them up and remove potential rockfall, but you may still come across a dirty/dusty ledge and/or some small rocks here and there. It should clean up well as more people climb here.

Getting There Suggest change

About 6.75 miles west of Divide Road (and 1.2 miles west of the actual Unaweep Divide), look for a small (almost hidden) sign that says “Trailhead Parking” on the south side of the road. When you pull in, head to the left, and you’ll find a picnic table and a gate.

39 Total Climbs

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Location: Wildcat Complex Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Wildcat Complex

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
● Divine Debris
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 16
● Threads
Sport 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 22
● Snake Jazz
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
● Eye of the Liger
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
● Canadian Lynx
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
● Cold and Ugly
Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
● Red, Red Wine
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
● Riders On The Storm
Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
● Highland Tiger
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
● Cat In Heat
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
● Snaggletooth
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 11
● Mo’ai
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
● Truly Untamed
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
● Lichen Them Funky Beats
Sport 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 9
● Kingston Town
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Divine Debris Wildcat One > Wildcat One S Face
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
● Threads Reflections Wall
 16
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 3 pitches
● Snake Jazz Wildcat One > Wildcat One S Face
 22
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Eye of the Liger Wildcat One > Wildcat One S Face
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Canadian Lynx Wildcat One > Wildcat One S Face
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Cold and Ugly Music Mountain
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 4 pitches
● Red, Red Wine Music Mountain
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Riders On The Storm Music Mountain
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 4 pitches
● Highland Tiger Wildcat One > Wildcat One S Face
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Cat In Heat Wildcat One > Wildcat One S Face
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Snaggletooth Wildcat One > Wildcat One S Face
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Mo’ai Wildcat One > Wildcat One S Face
 11
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Truly Untamed Wildcat One > Wildcat One S Face
 9
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Lichen Them Funky Beats Music Mountain
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 4 pitches
● Kingston Town Music Mountain
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Wildcat Complex »

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